[Davydo]

My temperature gauge stayed on one bar most of the time we were riding yesterday. Any ideas?

[Davydo]

My temperature gauge stayed on one bar most of the time we were riding yesterday. Any ideas?

I believe I repaired my problem. I disconnected the harness connector to the temperature sending unit. I noticed some mud residue around the connectors, so I took some CRC QD electrical connector cleaner and sprayed on the male and female ends, put some permatex dielectric grease to protect the connections, then reassembled things.  Ran the motor to for about 10 minutes and the temperature guage rose to three bars, stayed there for a few more minutes and then the fan kicked on. There are 3 pins to the sensor labeled a-b-c.  Pin b is the temperature gauge wire and a-c are to the ECM. Check out manualslib.com, type in Cfmoto in the search for service and owner's manual information.

[Davydo]

My temperature gauge stayed on one bar again yesterday, but the fan is kicking in just fine, does Cfmoto have a problem with the coolant sensors like they do the fan sensors?

[NMKawierider]

My temperature gauge stayed on one bar again yesterday, but the fan is kicking in just fine, does Cfmoto have a problem with the coolant sensors like they do the fan sensors?

Not near as much but CFM has issues with many..maybe most..of their electrical components. More often its either a bad pod or low voltage to the pod or system...because of some poor contacts in some connector somewhere. 

[Davydo]

My temperature gauge stayed on one bar again yesterday, but the fan is kicking in just fine, does Cfmoto have a problem with the coolant sensors like they do the fan sensors?

Not near as much but CFM has issues with many..maybe most..of their electrical components. More often its either a bad pod or low voltage to the pod or system...because of some poor contacts in some connector somewhere.

What do you mean by pod? You have an electrical schematic of the wiring path to the sensor? Thanks NMK!

[NMKawierider]

My temperature gauge stayed on one bar again yesterday, but the fan is kicking in just fine, does Cfmoto have a problem with the coolant sensors like they do the fan sensors?

Not near as much but CFM has issues with many..maybe most..of their electrical components. More often its either a bad pod or low voltage to the pod or system...because of some poor contacts in some connector somewhere.

What do you mean by pod? You have an electrical schematic of the wiring path to the sensor? Thanks NMK!

Any time anyone talks about a "Pod" regarding any off-road vehicle they are most often referring to the "intermediation cluster" because it's usually all part of one unit. Pretty sure there is a wiring schematic in the service manual...but I think the copy I had was corrupt and I tossed it. It will be very much like the 800's though so here is that one:

https://documentcloud.adobe.com/link/track?uri=urn%3Aaaid%3Ascds%3AUS%3A02b2e120-af97-439d-b561-3b3b6c856956

[Davydo]

My temperature gauge stayed on one bar again yesterday, but the fan is kicking in just fine, does Cfmoto have a problem with the coolant sensors like they do the fan sensors?

Not near as much but CFM has issues with many..maybe most..of their electrical components. More often its either a bad pod or low voltage to the pod or system...because of some poor contacts in some connector somewhere.

What do you mean by pod? You have an electrical schematic of the wiring path to the sensor? Thanks NMK!

Any time anyone talks about a "Pod" regarding any off-road vehicle they are most often referring to the "intermediation cluster" because it's usually all part of one unit. Pretty sure there is a wiring schematic in the service manual...but I think the copy I had was corrupt and I tossed it. It will be very much like the 800's though so here is that one:

https://documentcloud.adobe.com/link/track?uri=urn%3Aaaid%3Ascds%3AUS%3A02b2e120-af97-439d-b561-3b3b6c856956

Well, I was able to repair my temperature gauge reading on one bar. The sensor apparently lost connection on the "B" contact or it lost ground. I disconnected the sensor harness plug and noticed some build up of dirt and debris, so as I did before the last time it acted up, I sprayed some electrical connector cleaner and put some dielectric grease on the connectors and a round the connector to hopefully seal out mud and debris better. Reassemble and ran the motor and observed as the gauge climbed to the familiar 3 bars and a few minutes later the fan kicked on. The sensor is angled so the harness connector will hold water and debris during riding. If it does it again I may install some electrical tape to seal or a large wire sleeve that shrinks around the sensor and harness connector when heated.

[Davydo]

Here we go again...I replaced my temperature sending unit awhile back and the gauge worked until we went riding last time, sometimes the gauge reads three bars then it stays on one bar, the engine fan kicks in like it's supposed to. I don't think it's the gauge cluster  because the gauge worked with new sensor and still does intermittently. The parts guy at CFMOTO shop suggested possibly the thermostat is sticking, but the fan turns on so Idk? 

[NMKawierider]

The CFM parts guy needs to stick with something he knows...maybe parts numbers. Well unless it's connection with the ECM has something to do with the display, it can only be either the sending unit, the cluster or a bad ground off the cluster..but that would effect other things too so...The thermoswitch is separate and apparently working fine cause the fan is doing what it should. More CFM junk parts...sorry..did I say that. Just found I blew a front CFM shock just trail riding yesterday so I guess I have a bit of an attitude.   

[Davydo]

The CFM parts guy needs to stick with something he knows...maybe parts numbers. Well unless it's connection with the ECM has something to do with the display, it can only be either the sending unit, the cluster or a bad ground off the cluster..but that would effect other things too so...The thermoswitch is separate and apparently working fine cause the fan is doing what it should. More CFM junk parts...sorry..did I say that. Just found I blew a front CFM shock just trail riding yesterday so I guess I have a bit of an attitude.

I understand completely. I feel like it may be a bad sensor or maybe something is up with ground connection since the sensor housing is the ground. Gonna warm it up after I get the oil pressure switch delima repaired and tag a wire from the sensor housing to a good engine ground.

[Davydo]

The CFM parts guy needs to stick with something he knows...maybe parts numbers. Well unless it's connection with the ECM has something to do with the display, it can only be either the sending unit, the cluster or a bad ground off the cluster..but that would effect other things too so...The thermoswitch is separate and apparently working fine cause the fan is doing what it should. More CFM junk parts...sorry..did I say that. Just found I blew a front CFM shock just trail riding yesterday so I guess I have a bit of an attitude.

NMK I ran my engine for over 20 minutes revving it occasionally while testing for leaks on my oil sensor and the engine fan finally kicked on. The grounding wire didnt revile anything as the gauge staayed on one bar. Temperature here was in the high 30s that evening. You think that's a reasonable time for the fan to kick in or too long? What I'm getting at is it possible my thermostat is stuck open? One other thing is the hose coming off the thermostat housing the intake side of the coolant path into the engine or the exit back to the radiator? That hose warmed up gradually. Thanks!

[NMKawierider]

The CFM parts guy needs to stick with something he knows...maybe parts numbers. Well unless it's connection with the ECM has something to do with the display, it can only be either the sending unit, the cluster or a bad ground off the cluster..but that would effect other things too so...The thermoswitch is separate and apparently working fine cause the fan is doing what it should. More CFM junk parts...sorry..did I say that. Just found I blew a front CFM shock just trail riding yesterday so I guess I have a bit of an attitude.

NMK I ran my engine for over 20 minutes revving it occasionally while testing for leaks on my oil sensor and the engine fan finally kicked on. The grounding wire didnt revile anything as the gauge staayed on one bar. Temperature here was in the high 30s that evening. You think that's a reasonable time for the fan to kick in or too long? What I'm getting at is it possible my thermostat is stuck open? One other thing is the hose coming off the thermostat housing the intake side of the coolant path into the engine or the exit back to the radiator? That hose warmed up gradually. Thanks!

Well, I know this- the thermostat has a small hole to allow a little flow for movement in the pump and for air to exit and..it starts to open somewhere in the 185+ range..the book will tell exactly...and the fan comes on somewhere around 210 which is ...normally the upper end of three bars-to 4 bars, then cools it down to the mid-190s...say 197 which is the low end of 3 bars then it shuts off. That's all controlled by the thermoswitch on the radiator. For this to happen on one bar showing says yes, there is something wrong with either the gauge...or the engine coolant temp sensor..or some poor connection between the two. You replaced that sensor before and it worked...for a while. So I might be tempted to replace it again.

[Davydo]

The CFM parts guy needs to stick with something he knows...maybe parts numbers. Well unless it's connection with the ECM has something to do with the display, it can only be either the sending unit, the cluster or a bad ground off the cluster..but that would effect other things too so...The thermoswitch is separate and apparently working fine cause the fan is doing what it should. More CFM junk parts...sorry..did I say that. Just found I blew a front CFM shock just trail riding yesterday so I guess I have a bit of an attitude.

NMK I ran my engine for over 20 minutes revving it occasionally while testing for leaks on my oil sensor and the engine fan finally kicked on. The grounding wire didnt revile anything as the gauge staayed on one bar. Temperature here was in the high 30s that evening. You think that's a reasonable time for the fan to kick in or too long? What I'm getting at is it possible my thermostat is stuck open? One other thing is the hose coming off the thermostat housing the intake side of the coolant path into the engine or the exit back to the radiator? That hose warmed up gradually. Thanks!

Well, I know this- the thermostat has a small hole to allow a little flow for movement in the pump and for air to exit and..it starts to open somewhere in the 185+ range..the book will tell exactly...and the fan comes on somewhere around 210 which is ...normally the upper end of three bars-to 4 bars, then cools it down to the mid-190s...say 197 which is the low end of 3 bars then it shuts off. That's all controlled by the thermoswitch on the radiator. For this to happen on one bar showing says yes, there is something wrong with either the gauge...or the engine coolant temp sensor..or some poor connection between the two. You replaced that sensor before and it worked...for a while. So I might be tempted to replace it again.

That’s what I’m thinking, I’m gonna test the new sensor on the bench to check the resistance at various temperatures, I test the old one last evening and the resistance readings were way too low. Thanks!

[NMKawierider]

The CFM parts guy needs to stick with something he knows...maybe parts numbers. Well unless it's connection with the ECM has something to do with the display, it can only be either the sending unit, the cluster or a bad ground off the cluster..but that would effect other things too so...The thermoswitch is separate and apparently working fine cause the fan is doing what it should. More CFM junk parts...sorry..did I say that. Just found I blew a front CFM shock just trail riding yesterday so I guess I have a bit of an attitude.

NMK I ran my engine for over 20 minutes revving it occasionally while testing for leaks on my oil sensor and the engine fan finally kicked on. The grounding wire didnt revile anything as the gauge staayed on one bar. Temperature here was in the high 30s that evening. You think that's a reasonable time for the fan to kick in or too long? What I'm getting at is it possible my thermostat is stuck open? One other thing is the hose coming off the thermostat housing the intake side of the coolant path into the engine or the exit back to the radiator? That hose warmed up gradually. Thanks!

Well, I know this- the thermostat has a small hole to allow a little flow for movement in the pump and for air to exit and..it starts to open somewhere in the 185+ range..the book will tell exactly...and the fan comes on somewhere around 210 which is ...normally the upper end of three bars-to 4 bars, then cools it down to the mid-190s...say 197 which is the low end of 3 bars then it shuts off. That's all controlled by the thermoswitch on the radiator. For this to happen on one bar showing says yes, there is something wrong with either the gauge...or the engine coolant temp sensor..or some poor connection between the two. You replaced that sensor before and it worked...for a while. So I might be tempted to replace it again.

That’s what I’m thinking, I’m gonna test the new sensor on the bench to check the resistance at various temperatures, I test the old one last evening and the resistance readings were way too low. Thanks!

CFM has a bad reputation on electrical parts..there have been people that went through three or more thermoswitch until they got one that worked for any length of time. The others, like me are still on the original switch...go figure. 

[Davydo]

The CFM parts guy needs to stick with something he knows...maybe parts numbers. Well unless it's connection with the ECM has something to do with the display, it can only be either the sending unit, the cluster or a bad ground off the cluster..but that would effect other things too so...The thermoswitch is separate and apparently working fine cause the fan is doing what it should. More CFM junk parts...sorry..did I say that. Just found I blew a front CFM shock just trail riding yesterday so I guess I have a bit of an attitude.

NMK I ran my engine for over 20 minutes revving it occasionally while testing for leaks on my oil sensor and the engine fan finally kicked on. The grounding wire didnt revile anything as the gauge staayed on one bar. Temperature here was in the high 30s that evening. You think that's a reasonable time for the fan to kick in or too long? What I'm getting at is it possible my thermostat is stuck open? One other thing is the hose coming off the thermostat housing the intake side of the coolant path into the engine or the exit back to the radiator? That hose warmed up gradually. Thanks!

Well, I know this- the thermostat has a small hole to allow a little flow for movement in the pump and for air to exit and..it starts to open somewhere in the 185+ range..the book will tell exactly...and the fan comes on somewhere around 210 which is ...normally the upper end of three bars-to 4 bars, then cools it down to the mid-190s...say 197 which is the low end of 3 bars then it shuts off. That's all controlled by the thermoswitch on the radiator. For this to happen on one bar showing says yes, there is something wrong with either the gauge...or the engine coolant temp sensor..or some poor connection between the two. You replaced that sensor before and it worked...for a while. So I might be tempted to replace it again.

That’s what I’m thinking, I’m gonna test the new sensor on the bench to check the resistance at various temperatures, I test the old one last evening and the resistance readings were way too low. Thanks!

CFM has a bad reputation on electrical parts..there have been people that went through three or more thermoswitch until they got one that worked for any length of time. The others, like me are still on the original switch...go figure.

yeah go figure, so I tested the new switch on the bench and the resistance numbers were almost double the specs. At 50C / 122F manual says 152 +/- 16 (my switch was 344), 80C / 176F @ 52 +/-4. (mine 122), 100C / 212F @ 27 +/-3 (mine 49). Seems my new sensor is bad correct?