I have a BNX 500, which was running fine.  Took it hunting last weekend and drove it about a mile and parked (had ran it twice before on this day).  UTV was parked for about 4 hours and when we came back, turn the key to on and all lights came on.  Turn to start and nothing.  Pulled it back to house and jumped it with a truck and it started.  Loaded it up and drove 3 hours home, where it started at the my house.  Next day went to replace the battery and it wouldn't start again, tried jumping it and still wouldn't start.  Replaced battery and still nothing, the dash lights come on, but will not engage the starter. I had issues with my ignition switch before, so I replaced the ignition switch and still nothing. So I replaced the Starter Soleniod, still nothing.  Replaced the Starter Relay and it started.  Took it hunting the next day and started up no issues and went hunting for about 4 hours.  Came back and same thing happens.  The dashlights come on, but the starter will not engage.  So I turned the key to the on position and used a screw driver to jump across the terminal on the Starter Soleniod and the engine turns over and over, but no fire.  Really at a loss here.  What will cause the starter to not engage and also will not allow any spark when you bypass the Starter Relay?  This sounds stupid, but the only thing I have not check yet is the oil level.  Could there be a oil level sensor that does not allow the starter to engage and also does not allow there to be any spark?  I know that lawn mowers have this, so maybe does this UTV?  Will check tonight after work on oil level, but was wondering if anyone had any other ideas?  Please help, I am lost on this and GUN SEASON is a week away and need this UTV.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

One other thing to check is the grounds. The main ground is on the engine but the chassis ground supplies ground for all the accessories and control systems..such as coils...starter solenoid ...relays...ect.

Sure sound like a loose, corroded, or otherwise intermittent connection.

You have power at the ignition switch since the accessories are energized. The battery is well charged since the engine turns over when the solenoid is jumped.

I'll assume that the starter solenoid isn't getting power from the ignition switch. It would seem the ignition system is likely on the same failing circuit since jumping the solenoid didn't result in the engine starting. I would start by testing the ignition switch, and then follow the circuit to any connected relay or solenoid to find the failing part/connection.

Good luck!

Ok checked oil and seems fine. Actually started and ran around the block then it wouldn't start again. Got out a power indicator and found that somehow I have power on the frame and in ground wires themselves. I checked a bunch of wiring by shaking to see if I loose the power on frame and nothing. Even have power indicated on motor. Not sure where to go next. Could the stator have gone bad and somehow melted to where there is power to the frame?

If you had a short to ground you would blow a fuse. The frame of the ATV is the return path so normal to attach the negative lead of your multi meter to it in order to measure voltage across a component. Usually, corrosion on a ground wire lug will cause enough resistance to prevent proper current flow and thus disable a component such as a high current device as a starter from functioning properly. It is crucial that connections be clean and corrosion free.

Have a look at this troubleshooting write up and see if it helps.

http://www.ebay.com/gds/How-to-Test-an-ATV-Starter-/10000000205702262/g.html

That is what I don't understand is that I have no fuses blown that I have found.  But for some reason there is power through the frame and on ground wires. Except when I disconnect the ground wire from the battery and only have the positive hooked up.  Then I place the power tester negative lead to the ground terminal on battery and test the frame, no power.  But I then touch it to the negative wire I took off the battery, I have power indicated.  If I place the negative lead on tester to the negative wire off the battery and touch the frame I have power indicated.  It is a mess. 

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

There are two common leads to the engine block, one is the main battery cable. The other is the link between it and the chassis. There are several leads from systems that lead to the chassis ground points. One of those has a bad connection somewhere...IMO.

From: http://cfmoto-forum.com/how-to's/no-power-to-starter-solenoid-or-coil/

Here is what I have replaced:  Starter Solenoid, Starter Relay, Ignition Switch, Battery.  I checked my battery with a voltage meter and have 12.6 to 12.8 volts when the engine is running.  12.4 when engine is off.

It's not a battery problem. You need to stop guessing and find where the voltage interruption is.

When the bike won't start:

Have you checked the ignition switch (new or old) to ensure that it is passing voltage to the starter solenoid lead?

Have you checked for ignition voltage at the start solenoid?

Results?

First off, I did not mean to start a second thread for the same problem.  I could not find this thread because somehow it got moved to UForce 500. 

There is no short anywhere on the bike from my previous reports I talked about.  I found out why I was getting those readings and had nothing to do with wiring, just the idiot checking it. 

I think I may have found my issue or have an idea and will check on it tomorrow night.  Might have something to do with the neutral switch, the light will come on when it is in neutral but acts just like when in gear.  This UTV will not turn over in gear and everything seems to be dead from the switch to coil and solenoid.  So I wonder if I am having an issue with it sticking or going bad.  Going to dig into it tomorrow and see.   

Checking the switch is a good idea. The shift linkage might be out of alignment also give that a check too.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Some of these have interlock relays that are only activated when either the neutral light or the brake light is on.

There is no short anywhere on the bike from my previous reports I talked about.  I found out why I was getting those readings and had nothing to do with wiring, just the idiot checking it. 

Ha! This brought back far too many memories of frustrating intermittent electrical issue!  :-)

I could not find a wiring diagram online for your bike, but I think you are on the right track in looking for a failing interlock or relay between the ignition switch and starter relay. Good luck! And let us know what you find.

UPDATE!  Thanks for all the great information and possible leads to look at. 

We all know what I have replaced and was still having the issue.  I used a voltage meter and checked the battery, which was 12.2 - 12.4, engine running is went up between 12.4 - 12.6 and with the throttle at half down it goes up to about 12.8.  So it is showing a charge, slight charge but still showing a charge.  I talked with the parts guy out PA and he indicated that this UTV does have a Neutral sensor and a brake switch, also it should start in gear with brake on.  He didn't think the Neutral sensor would cause my issue if the dash is showing it is in neutral.  So I checked to see if it would start in gear with brake on, it doesn't, I checked the brake switch and found it to be bad. tied the 2 wires together from the brake switch and it starts everytime in gear.  So hopefully a new brake switch and problem solved.  Will let everyone know how it goes over the next 2 weeks hunting and if there are any other issues.

Thanks again for the advice. 

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

UPDATE!  Thanks for all the great information and possible leads to look at. 

We all know what I have replaced and was still having the issue.  I used a voltage meter and checked the battery, which was 12.2 - 12.4, engine running is went up between 12.4 - 12.6 and with the throttle at half down it goes up to about 12.8.  So it is showing a charge, slight charge but still showing a charge.  I talked with the parts guy out PA and he indicated that this UTV does have a Neutral sensor and a brake switch, also it should start in gear with brake on.  He didn't think the Neutral sensor would cause my issue if the dash is showing it is in neutral.  So I checked to see if it would start in gear with brake on, it doesn't, I checked the brake switch and found it to be bad. tied the 2 wires together from the brake switch and it starts everytime in gear.  So hopefully a new brake switch and problem solved.  Will let everyone know how it goes over the next 2 weeks hunting and if there are any other issues.

Thanks again for the advice. 

Good...and just FYI, Its not charging enough. Sitting there not running it should be 12.7 or so but running above 2500RPM it should be over 14 volts...lone 14.4- 14.6. So something is wrong.