I just ordered the AirDam clutch kit from MSC. I need more grunt and lower rpm engagement for farm chores, plowing, and skidder trail adventures. Has anyone else installed this and clocked their secondary? I'll probably go with B3. Ant thoughts/experience? Thanks.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

I just ordered the AirDam clutch kit from MSC. I need more grunt and lower rpm engagement for farm chores, plowing, and skidder trail adventures. Has anyone else installed this and clocked their secondary? I'll probably go with B3. Ant thoughts/experience? Thanks.

I don't have any first-hand experience with the 1000s but most just either replaced the spring with one with a lighter lower pressure and/or put heavier weights in the sliders to make them engage at a lower RPM. As for clocking, B3 is too much for the 800s but many are running it on the 1000s. You will just gave to see if it works for you. Let us know how the AirDam works out. Post some pics of it.   

I just ordered the AirDam clutch kit from MSC. I need more grunt and lower rpm engagement for farm chores, plowing, and skidder trail adventures. Has anyone else installed this and clocked their secondary? I'll probably go with B3. Ant thoughts/experience? Thanks.

I don't have any first-hand experience with the 1000s but most just either replaced the spring with one with a lighter lower pressure and/or put heavier weights in the sliders to make them engage at a lower RPM. As for clocking, B3 is too much for the 800s but many are running it on the 1000s. You will just gave to see if it works for you. Let us know how the AirDam works out. Post some pics of it.

That's basically what the kit is, put together by AirDam for the machine. I can't send the clutch components out to get machined at this time. I'm going to need the machine for plowing snow.

I installed the clutch kit yesterday evening. It was easy-peasy.
Steps:
1. Remove rear driver side tire, plastic fender well (two pushpins & three 10mm socket-head bolts outside and one 8mm-SH bolt inside on bottom).
2. Remove gas tank vent canister (two 10mm SH bolts on bracket) for impact gun clearance. No need to disconnect the hoses.
3. Remove CVT cover (Eight 10mm SH bolts or thereabouts))
4. Remove drive clutch pulley bolt (19mm SH size). This is reverse thread, and threads through two pulley threads separated by a couple of inches. Remove nut underneath (30mm) Reverse thread as well. Pull off outer assembly making sure the spring and the two washers (steel and delrin) don't fly. Take cap off, clean parts, push out old and install new weights into sliders. (My OEMs were 20 grams. The replacements were 18 grams) I used new sliders and rubbed a dry moly lubricant (powder) on the slider housings' outside.
5. Remove driven clutch pulley assembly along with belt (32mm SH nut - standard thread direction). Use disassembly tool to disassemble. Reclock to B3. Reassemble and reinstall over splined shaft with belt on. Thread the nut on with blue Loctite. I torqued to ~80 ft/lbs.
6. Fight with new belt while rotating over and onto the spring cup and then home onto the drive pulley bearing.
7. Slip on the new thicker and shorter spring into the cup, and then the drive clutch assembly. (if the washers flew off, they're installed metal first, then delrin) Compress the spring hard to make sure to seat the octagonal cover opening onto the octagonal shaft area, hold while threading the nut on (reverse thread) with blue Loctite. I torqued to ~45 ft/lbs. Thread cap bolt on with blue Loctite (reverse thread). I torqued that to ~35 ft/lbs.
8. Reinstall cover, tank vent canister, fender well and tire.
9. Take the machine for a burn!

My results were pleasantly noticeable. In high range, the engagement was at a lower RPM and smoother. The engine was able to achieve powerband RPM quicker, increasing acceleration rate. With the shocks cranked to the highest setting, the machine really squatted when I punched it. I hit the rev limiter at 58 mph in a much shorter distance than before. I had previously calibrated my speedo with a GPS for the 30" tires, and I lost only a few MPH at the top end, which is irrelevant to me. In low range the herky-jerky was extremely reduced, and the throttle engagement is more sure while putzing around. I'm going to take it up the mountain on my skidder trails today to put it through some technical situations.

Overall, I'm really pleased with the performance gains where I need them. Low-end torque,  predictable and controllable throttle control for short movements in forward and reverse, and faster acceleration for fun.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Good info. Thanks for sharing. Should help lots of people.

I hope it helps people. I corrected the bolt size for the drive clutch in my post above.

I forget to mention that now there is NO CLUTCH RATTLE at idle!

I drove it on trails today, including some really steep inclines that I've only taken my Rokon on. The clutch it made power delivery much more manageable to climb up with control. I'm impressed.

Oh, I also got it up to 63 mph on a longer straight run. One thing I noticed is that it juuuuusssst hit the rev limiter a couple times during the acceleration.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Oh, I also got it up to 63 mph on a longer straight run. One thing I noticed is that it juuuuusssst hit the rev limiter a couple times during the acceleration.

Wow...so it's that close to it while accelerating. Where do they have it set at on these engines...same as the rest?  About 7750RPM?

Not sure. ~7600 rpm or so is where she winds during full throttle acceleration, and then she has her moments, LOL

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Not sure. ~7600 rpm or so is where she winds during full throttle acceleration, and then she has her moments, LOL

Yeah..somewhere in there. Still..pretty high.

Do you think I should clock it to A2?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Do you think I should clock it to A2?

My gut says if you are on B3, that's putting you too close to the limiter and has to be past the power curve. You want to stay at or just slightly under it..and I guessing it's somewhere between 4800 and 5400.. so anything to get it back into that range during shift-out would be better. A2 is just one step up from B2 so..for a 1000 that might be the sweet spot...IMO. Can't hurt to try. Cost's nothing but a little time.

Do you think I should clock it to A2?

My gut says if you are on B3, that's putting you too close to the limiter and has to be past the power curve. You want to stay at or just slightly under it..and I guessing it's somewhere between 4800 and 5400.. so anything to get it back into that range during shift-out would be better. A2 is just one step up from B2 so..for a 1000 that might be the sweet spot...IMO. Can't hurt to try. Cost's nothing but a little time.

Thanks! I have said time.

Max HP is rated at 7000 rpm, and max torque is rated at 6200 rpm. I think A2 will work.

Sounds like you lost top end with this kit, but understand it's wasn't your goal.

Sounds like you lost top end with this kit, but understand it's wasn't your goal.

Yes, I lost a little bit on the top end. But I didn't buy a UTV for speed. I own a farm on a fairly large piece of property, where I need to use the machine as a utility shuttle for hauling and towing, getting to my equipment in the fields, etc. Also, traversing through woods to the upper property line is almost a mile over rough skidder trails, where the going is sometimes steep and slow. Pile on a load of firewood and it's quite interesting, LOL!