It was the battery NMK .... thank you.

Funny I boosted it with a couple Canadian Tire hand held boosters. When I used my truck boost it started.
I then sourced a real tester and it sucked down to 7 volts (BAD).

Now I have a sudden curiosity. And I'm going to use the word "slap" again ... (:
Could any battery, within reason, with the correct voltage and ah, be slapped in ANY machine as
long as it nicely fits and has compatible connections?

thanks

I'm going to slap this up here before I dig in - hoping its a common one.

Bike idle all winter and summer up to this point. Starter relay chatters rapidly on key turn. Starter or Engine doesn't move.
Dash and indicator lights remains brightly lit. Boost has same effect.

thanks

Went absolutely dead when pulling out from gas station.

Problem: Double start/pin control wire connector at positive battery terminal
had hairline crack across connecter ring. Looked and felt ok before digging in.
I am thinking was caused from flexing of loosely suspended high amp cable which kinda
mates with this control pair.

NMK.........Your insight is soooooo appreciated.

I will certainly follow that advice in the future.

thanks a million

Perfect info
tks NMK

My brain got locked on to using synthetic from my first warranty service bill.
I'm sure the dealer also told me at one point that synthetic is required.
Appears conventional oil is just fine.  Oh my my my...(:

Anyone ever use SAE10W30 synthetic as oppose to SAE10W40 synthetic in this one?
Geeeez.....the latter seems not to be stocked on any of our local shelves - Canadian Tire/Walmart/etc  lol

Eastern Canada

tks

First time checking air filter since this intake modification in 2019. (wasn't heavily used really, but all dusty contractor dirt roads)

Clean as a whistle. (This filter is Grey....not blue) (also cleaned and reused in 2019, therefore dirty-ish appearance).

Have read a few discussions on CFMoto Intake Mods here and elsewhere. Didn't give it much
heed until I checked my filter. Foam wrap was clogged to the ...s. Only a few klicks since last cleaning.
I placed a new topic here couple days ago...Cab Dust Control...where I added a Lexan glass fitted
as a rear windshield. With this addition the dust in the cab is pretty much Zero. So a light went off.

As per attachment, I routed the intake up to passenger head level inside the Lexan shield. In my
mind, I should never need to clean/change the filter again. welllllll...ha

All joints are sealed, including the entry seam around the first short nipple.

The result is now a minimum 1 1/2" air flow. There is a small lost due to the thickness of the PVC pipe.
But I figure a 1 1/2" raceway is much better than a plugged filter.

Tested and appears ok. I would appreciate if any possible dangers seen here by anyone.
Still under warrenty....but what the hell...(:

Tested another CFMoto modification. Added a Lexan Glass to the back as in attached photo. With the front
windshield open (half or full) the cab becomes pressurized resulting in pretty much zero dust. Also kinda generates
some air conditioning. Only downfall is passing a vehicle. Then I just slow or stop for a few moments.
Well....or close the windshield. Naaaa...to much trouble..lol

Before this modification the dust problem was constant and terrible. (billowing from the rear)

I'm sure this has been discussed and solved here many times. Just can't remember...(:

This was discussed somewhere here sometime within the last year. I believe I chimed in with a solution depicted in the attached photo.

Decided to give it a try.

1/4 tempered glass held on with a bead of gutter silicone (clear). Tested it on rough ride. Hmmm....great.

I wonder would it be silly to silicone a sheet of 1/8 glass on top just large enough to accommodate the wiper track.
Naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.......(:

Thanks ctdls

This one has a 5yr warranty.....lucky me...lol

So I am going to get it replaced.....I hope.

If not, then 100% for sure (:

Hmmmm....nice

Love those discussions

Again thanks guys

I am thinking the squeal is not from starter rotation (Bearings) because the flywheel is not turning yet.
Therefore the starter is at a stand still. It almost sounds like an electrical loaded sizzle/squeal.

That's what I tend to get from file 2. The squeal.....then rotation.

I could be wrong.

Always runs ok. Also, always starts once it passes the high compression point (problem point).
Once the flywheel gets spinning it will continue to rotate.
It only happens say 5% of the time. (randomly happens to be right at the doorstep of max
compression on start initiation).

Anyway NMK....I am sure you are correct.
I'm allllllllllllll excited...ha

Thanks ole buddy