Hi Bob,

Where there is a will there is a way.

Get out your tape measures, laser measuring devices, vernier gauge and start measuring up for own bespoke rack extender.

Then you can sell you new creation to the CFMOTO world who also require what you require from a rack extender and your bespoke cargo box.

Good Luck GMFAHFR   

Hi again desmobob,

I cannot comment on bespoke CFMOTO cargo box or the accessories as I have zero experience with them because cost and availability always tends to be limited and cost high.

On the other hand for all my cargo box requirements and other accessories I tend to fit exclusively "Moose Utility Division" kit https://www.moose-offroad.com/category/17733. Very accessible here in the UK, reasonably priced and well supported with information and modification.

For example all of my X8's have been converted to Moose combined twist and thumb throttle unit on the handlebar, expensive but very high quality kit.

GMFAHFR     

Hi Desmobob,

No worries you are very welcome, I hope the info was of some assistance to you.

Keep me posted on your progress

Hi Desmobob,

From new these shifters always play up, tight, difficult to shift and sometimes they stick in gear after a run.
Here are some solutions which I hope will help:-
1. You can rock the quad back and forth whilst stuck in gear, handbrake off, this may then help to release a stuck shifter, in the ideal world one person rocking whilst the second is trying to disengage the locked/stuck shifter. Or just wait and hang around until everything has cooled down, not ideal of course in the snow and the cold but at least the ambient temperature should speed up the cooling down process.
2. It will get better at shifting and will not stick after you have put more miles on it.
3. Long distances on a brand-new quad will exacerbate the issue, you have a brand-new box everything is slightly tight and manufactured to close tolerances, combine this with long drives in 4X4 wheel drive and there may be the issue of transmission wind up. Transmission wind up is created when driving in 4X4 drive on tarmac, on loose surface the transmission unwinds as the wheels are spinning/unwinding automatically on the loose surface. If transmission wind-up is the issue jack up the quad, if the wheel spins then it has unwound, do this on both axles front and rear because there is no third diff between the two axles. A third diff is a diff placed between the front and rear axles and prevents/reduces transmission wind-up. Third diffs like all diffs also required to be locked under certain conditions i.e. when all four wheels are spinning under loose surfaces. They tend to be fitted to serious 4X4 off road vehicles, mainly military vehicles. For an ATV quad bike it is assumed that because it will be used most of the time off road under loose surfaces it will automatically unwind the trans and therefore to keep costs and complications down a third diff is not fitted to ATV's.   
4. Resetting/adjusting the shifter mechanism: -
•   A good place to start, I have reset, modified and adjusted all my shifters on all my X8 quads.
•   Yes, check the foot brake release cable pin at the shifter, i.e. that the pin is moving and disengaging to allow the shifter to move. I put stronger springs down on the pedal end of the cable as wells as making the cable tighter.
•   The shifter lever always hits the aluminium mounting bracket that mounts the whole shifter to the engine. I remove this bracket and file out sufficient aluminium so that when the shifter is placed in "P" it does not hit the bracket, likewise when shifted to "L" at the top I again check that the shifter is not hitting anything. If so I modify my removing metal.
•   There is a rod that adjusts the shifter i.e. it shortens it or lengthens it, it is good to check this as well to the specs in the workshop manual.
•   Finally, I strip out the shifter unit and pack with high melting point red grease.
Even with the above modifications and checks with a new quad the shifter will tend to be tighter when new.
Always make sure your foot is hard and fully on the foot brake, that you are stationary, and the engine is most definitely on idle, now you can shift.

Take Care....Have fun.....Live Long...Grandmaster Splash & his Furious Ride

Salut Horace2002
Bienvenue sur le forum, où vous situez-vous en Belgique?

Espérons que vous ne devriez pas avoir trop de problèmes mécaniques, surtout si vous y allez doucement et traitez votre CFMOTO 500 comme une bonne bouteille de vin français, c'est-à-dire buvez-le lentement et profitez-en.

La collecte occasionnelle de bois et de courts voyages devraient également signifier que vous aurez peu de problèmes, n'oubliez pas de bien servir et de suivre les règles.

Prenez soin de vous.......vive longtemps........amusez-vous... Grandmaster Splash & his Furious Ride

Dear HRC 630,

The stock air filters for the majority of CFMOTO ATV's & UTV's are extremely poor filters, they clog quickly and require more than regular cleaning or changing especially if one is constantly on dusty trails.

Coupled with this is that they are equally very poor with air flow even in non dusty locations.

Forget going in the desert with these stock filters, instant clogging.

Invest in a good quality K&N high flow low maintenance Air filter, they improve flow, improve general drive conditions and last much longer than stock filters, they are expensive but much cheaper than having to renewing/replacing the engine!

However, they will require more maintenance if operated in dusty conditions but not as much as stock Air filters.

Take care.....live Long.......Have fun...............Grandmaster Splash & His Furious Ride

Hi Cave Eagle,

Ok the braking system is split as follows:-

1. Foot pedal right hand side operates on all wheels, when you have fitted the new master cylinder make sure you adjust the push rod at the back of the master cyl that connects to foot pedal to get full travel of the master cyl piston. If you do not get the full travel of the piston in the master cyl you will never evacuate all the air. The height of the pedal to get the full travel is in the CFMOTO workshop manual for your machine.
2 The R/H handlebar lever operates the front brakes only.
3.The L/H handlebar lever operates the rear brakes only, "PLEASE NOTE" this is not hydraulic operation its mechanical and functions as the handbrake.

Procedure to bleed the brakes as follows:-

1. First bleed the the systems that operates all wheels, "Strongly Recommend" a pressure bleeder, you can hire one or purchase one, they can be operated by compressed air or my mains power with an inbuilt motor.  Connect the pressure bleeder to the master cylinder first behind the foot pedal, walk round each wheel an open each bleed nipple in turn until air escapes. Then with one of the front bleed nipples open press the foot pedal lightly, now close the nipple. Each pressure bleeder tool has its own bespoke set of instructions. Should you attempt a manual non pressure bleed procedure you will be very luck if you evacuate all air from the system.
2. We are now left with the R/H handlebar lever that operates the front brakes only, snag here is you will never find a screw on top with a pipe adaptor to fit the reservoir on the handle from the pressure bleeder kit. So we have to revert to manual bleeding, top up the reservoir, open the two front bleed nipples and connect a pipe to two receptacles. Now go get a cup of coffee whilst gravity does its job, keep a check on the reservoir and the two bleed receptacles. Let at least three reservoirs bleed through, just before the 3rd reaches half way, apply the lever slowly and release it. Now shut off the bleed nipples, top up the reservoir and if luck is on your side you should have evacuated all air from the system.

Take Care......Have Fun.....Live Long...........Grandmaster, Flash & His Furious Ride

Hi Dusty dog in Spain,

Frustrating to say the least, especially the wait.

There may be an alternative but you will have to do some deep research/investigation on the splinternet.

The bearing will be a generic item not manufactured by CFMOTO or KTM, all manufacture's, bikes, Quads, cars trucks do not manufacture these parts, they source them and get them supplied to their factories by the millions, pay next to nothing for them then charge me and you an arm and a leg to supply us with a new one.

So "DIG DEEP" ascertain the bespoke bearing type and all of its dimensions, then find a bearing manufacturer, there loads of them in Europe and get your bearing.

Do not be put off by one dealer and a narrow supply chain that they have to follow.

We got apollo 13 back to earth and saved the lives of three brave astronauts, I absolutely sure you can source and provide your bearing for your quad!

Live long......have fun.......stay safe.......Grandmaster Splash a& his Furious Ride

Hi Shoon,
Thanks for the clarity, it all makes a bit more sense now.

I agree that the driven bevel gear, driven bevel gear assy, and front output shaft failed because of potential initial suspect factory set-up, now that you have confirmed you have had it form new, driven it sensibly and serviced it well.

You are right to be concerned about no backlash adjustment shims on the invoice, if they followed the procedure in the manual correctly, they may/should have used different shims to set-up the backlash adjustment correctly. I attach FYI the instruction from CFMOTO manual on how to set/check backlash. You can still do this with everything assembled to get a rough idea where you are. What you cannot do is to use engineers blue to check tooth contact i.e. hitting the centre off the tooth as shown in the attachment instructions.

Failing that i.e. the above, armed now with the information ask the dealer to walk you through the procedure they followed/adhered to set/check backlash.

However regular oil changes and the correct engine oil use is a must with these machines especially in the extreme climate that you reside in. I use only Fuchs Silkolene Quad ATV 10W-40 Semi Synthetic 4T engine oil. I use bespoke Fuchs Silkolene transmission/axle oils for the front and rear axles. I ignore service intervals for time and mileage and change engine and axle oils every year along with filters, running 12 X8's I cannot afford to take chances. Fuchs Silkolene oils are the most expensive in the marketplace, but worth every penny in the long run because my machines are not often off the road and immobilised.

As for the coils, yes, I agree leaving the machine out in -40 would not be good the resin on top of the coil assembly, it will crack, however, pressure water cleaning after a ride is not good it will force water into the coils. I never pressure wash any machines, too much damage to all electrical circuits. I may pressure wash the wheel arches if there is loads of thick mud, the rest is done with non-pressure water but never in sensitive areas of all electrical systems.


Finally you have put my mind at a little rest by confirming that they did not fill the crankcase with gas, however, if you are anything like concerned I would suggest you get an engine analysis form a lubrication specialist, it will confirm the percentage of everything in the oil, all metals, metal compounds, fuels and any other suspect materials that should not be there. Again, this will be an expensive analysis, but it will be your independent evidence to prove rightly or wrongly the percentage of gas they dumped in your crankcase.     

Have fun......take care.....Grandmaster Flash & His Furious Ride

Hi Shoon,
Ok two questions here so let's deal with the coil failure first: -
1.   First part of this question more than likely that someone else has had a coli failure. The coils are a greater risk of failure if the machine is used extensively in mud and water, in large amounts. On the other end of the spectrum coils are less likely to fail if the machine is not put through deep water and deep mud bogs.
2.   The main causes of coil failure are as follows: -
a.   The above drive uses
b.   Overheating, a coil can overheat if it is used constantly in very hot conditions, the material bonding the coil together inside the coil melts and it eventually fails. On older coil ignition systems with contact breaker points leaving the ignition on will cause the coil to overheat and fail.
c.   On modern contactless ignition systems, the resign used to manufacture the coil will crack in extreme cold conditions. This resign can be seen on the top of the coil, when it cracks water/moisture will enter the crack and the coil will eventually fail. However, cracking of the resin is more likely through aging, this should not be case for your machine though.
Finally unlikely that aging has caused your coil failure more than likely drive issues in first paragraph, that the machine was subject too from its first owner.
I am more concerned with the gas that flooded the crankcase, I note you say "THEY" flooded the crankcase I guess you mean the dealer. If this is case, I would question their skill and experience level. To crank an engine such that they flooded the crankcase means they must have done an inordinate amount of non-start cranking and dumped a good 15 to 20% of your fuel tank in the crankcase. I cannot use the expletives here to describe their level of zero competence. In short if any motor does not start, first rule is to stop and determine "WHY" it does not start. Non start cranking until they flood the crankcase with gas is the skill level of an incompetent buffoon or should I say baboon! 
Of greater concern is the amount of time they were cranking for with gas in the crankcase. Gas will dilute the oil and severely reduce the ability of the engine oil to perform its job of lubricating the motor. In short, this form of incompetence places accelerated wear on every component inside your motor and reduces the life of the engine. If you ask them, they will immediately go into defence mode and state it was just a few non start cranks so it should be OK. A ridiculous defence answer if they flooded the crankcase with gas, as they were clearly cranking for some time and causing rapid increased were to your motor.

Second part to your question i.e. the transmission the driven bevel gear, driven bevel gear assy, and front output shaft.
1.   There are again a number of reasons why this failed: -
a.   Let's start at manufacture, a simple case of poor assembly, wrong shims or wrong backlash free play settings between the gears. If this was the case then it is a simple matter of time before it fails, in your case a few 1,000 KM
b.   Let's assume all the above was OK and our good friends in China did a marvellous job of building the bike to its blueprint specs.
c.   We now return to the original owner before you, this is where it gets difficult because I have no idea how long a piece of string is: -
i.   Did he drive the bike with cotton buds under his feet.
ii.   Did he service the bike and change all the necessary filters fluids and make all the necessary checks and adjustments to the letter of the law in CFMOTO manual.
iii.   Or the worst-case scenario did he drive like a bat of hell, in every mud bog in Canada and not spend a single cent on it for maintenance or service.
Looking at your images of the crank/tranie case drain plug, driven bevel gear, driven bevel gear assy, and front output shaft I think I can safely state that it looks as though it has received little care and attention before you became the proud owner.
My advice: -
The Seller Take all your evidence coil or coils tranie components and make a visit to the person you bought it from. Sate that it is clear evidence of use and abuse and poor or zero servicing. In the UK we can use a breach of contract rule and claim monies back. Only if they stated otherwise in the Advert for sale i.e. well serviced, well maintained, service records provided, never raced or rallied. 
The Dealer Go back to the dealer, explain your concern quoting what I have stated above. Not sure of the laws in Canada, but over here in UK this is gross negligence through lack of competence and a definitive breach of contract. They have severely reduced the life of your motor, the minimum they owe you is a new motor, do not accept a motor rebuild! Because of their negligence you motor is effectively "SCRAP" or "JUNK". Oh and finally avoid returning to this dealer like the plague.

I watch "Judge Judy" quite a lot over here in the UK, OK I know she's American and resides in the big Apple. My point being whilst I am not familiar with all the laws of "Contract" in Canada I think you are on solid ground to make a claim for breach of contract as I cannot see the main foundation of contract law being all that different in Canada.
Take care......Have fun............Grandmaster Splash and Furious Ride.

Hi Don,
Incorrectly angled grease nipples or grease nipples that point straight such that you cannot apply a grease gun is a common problem with a large majority of quad bike manufactures. Unless that is one has the cash to flash on a CanAm. They do this to simply cut costs with little fore sight for aftercare maintenance requirements.
However, it's a simple fix that does not require the removal of hubs.
Establish the thread type and size of your grease nipples, more than likely to be M6 Hydraulic Nipples Zerk 6mm x 1mm Pitch Thread on a CFMOTO.
Get a 5 pack of 4 M6 Hydraulic Angled Grease Nipple Nipples Zerk 6mm x 1mm Pitch Thread 90° Angle 90 Degree.
Also get a pack of 4 M6 Hydraulic Angled Grease Nipple Nipples Zerk 6mm x 1mm Pitch Thread 45°Angle 45 Degree.
Remove the existing straight nipples an replace with a 45- or 90-degree nipple.
Then onto Amazon to locate a supplier of these nipple types, I would normally provide links but these are UK suppliers. I sure you will locate a supplier on Amazon in Canada. 
Have fun.........take care.......Grandmaster Splash & his Furious Ride

Hello IKE,

I hope the information below is helpful to explain how your rear diff and auto diff lock works, I cannot be absolutely sure I am answering your question as I have not fully understood your question.

There is not a problem with your rear transmission.
Your countries dealer and importer will have little or zero knowledge of this as their dealer support technical training network is potentially non-existent if it is the same as is here in the UK. Here in the UK they do not have the time or inclination to begin to understand or want to understand.  Their only aim being to sell quad bike bikes and quad bike parts, the majority of dealers here in UK are Garden Machinery providers for this type of quad bike, there are few that specialise in off road and on road quad bikes and the in depth technicalities and requirements. There are some professional & knowledgably quad bike dealers, but they deal exclusively with racing quad bikes only.
Fitted to the rear axle of your model X8 I suspect is an Eaton Detroit Locker NoSpin Diff unit. Be sure to use a quality petroleum/mineral based oil, it works best in the Detroit Locker units. Something like a recommend synthetic oil, friction additive/modifier is not required, i.e. Comma EP 80W-90 GL-4 Mineral Gear Oil. I use Fuchs Gear Oil Silkolene Boa 80W-90 Mineral oil designed specifically for these axles. I change that oil in both axles every year irrespective of mileage and use as it will prolong axle life. You will get premature failure of the axles and diff units if you use the wrong lubrication. If you are putting your machine through hard off-road use change the oil every year or more often. Some dealers may refer to this a "Jaw" diff, only because that is what their parts systems tell them. The term "Jaw Diff" is not a Brand name it is a lose technical term derived from the fact that the planetary gears on each end of the half shafts have dog clutches on them. These dog clutches are a set of matching dog teeth on each end of the diff gears and half shaft gears. A dog clutch system has been used on incredibly old a basic manual gearbox for decades, the two sets of dog clutch gears on each side of the diff are loosely referred to as a "Jaws". Confusing yes, can the dealers and importers explain this no, I hope it helps and makes sense to you? 
In short what happens is this: -
•   Driving straight ahead on a tarmac road at high speed or low speed off road the diff is locked, i.e. the wheels will not turn at different speeds, they are locked as one solid drive same speed to both wheels.
•   When you turn a corner especially on tarmac the diff unlocks & permits the rear wheels to turn at different speeds like a normal diff. Especially the inside wheel of the corner as it has more traction/resistance and difficulty in turning. The increased torque on the inside wheel cause the spring to unlock the locked diff. Because you are on tarmac and turning slow you get a clunking type of noise from the rear diff area. This is normal, there are some hefty springs disengaging the planetary wheel of the diff unit to allow the wheel to turn at different speeds. The tyres are providing excellent grip and will not slip hence the diff gear mechanism clunks and clicks as the mechanism engages and disengages. The Clunk/click noise from the rear diff unit is more pronounced on tarmac road than loose ground surface. As you corner at slow speed on tarmac you may also notice/feel a kind of jerking or clunking from the rear wheels, its as if you have poor throttle control. However, it is the dog clutch gears engaging and disengaging as you corner, try as you might to control throttle it will always happen with this design diff. Decades ago the majority of manual gearboxes on cars and trucks had dog clutch gearboxes i.e. no synchromesh units on every gear. To prevent the gears from stripping their teeth every time a gear was selected one and to double clutch and rev the engine between gear. This process matched the speeds of the layshaft and main shaft in the gearbox prevent the gears from crunching when you changed gear. It is not possible to adopt a driving technique with the CFMOTO 800 X8 to prevent the clunk/click from the rear axle as the whole process is automated. Be aware of it keep the axles topped up with oil and change the oil more regular than recommended by CFMOTO.
•   The noise will be less pronounced on lose ground off road when cornering at low speed, the noise is not so noticeable on tarmac at high speed cornering but this as you know is not advised on quad bikes due to your high centre of gravity. 
I attach the Eaton manual for you, there is also a test/check sequence in the manual,  you will also find some videos on You tube if you want a more in-depth appreciation of how this works, please link to bespoke Eaton video on you tube below FYI. After watching the video hopefully all the pennies will drop it is fairly straight forward.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AuZqG7pTabw

Enjoy your ride...............Stay Safe..............Grandmaster Splash & his Furious Ride

Hi Greendot,

With regard to your oil problem see below: -

Your countries dealer and importer will have little or zero knowledge of this as their dealer support technical training network and technical bulletin reporting is potentially non-existent if it is the same as is here in the UK. CFMOTO and other quad bike manufactures do not have a full-blown HQ in UK and therefore after Sales support for customer, importer and dealer is practically non-existent. Therefore, here in the UK due to the lack of full After Sales support from the manufacturer dealers & importers concentrate selling quad bikes and quad bike parts. Most dealers here in UK are Garden Machinery providers for this type of quad bike, there are few that specialise in off road and on road quad bikes and the in-depth technicalities and requirements for this product. There are some professional & knowledgably quad bike dealers, but they deal exclusively with racing quad bikes only.

Oil light coming on under heavy braking and cornering CFMOTO C force 800 X8 Euro 4 spec This is a common problem on the V twin cylinder, liquid cooled, 4-stroke, SOHC, 8-valve,  800cc engine, more of a problem if you believe the engine dipstick indicated "Full Oil Level" position on the dipstick as produced and exited the CFMOTO factory.


If you follow the instruction in the CFMOTO manual the engine is filled with oil when at the top of the taper bit on the dip stick, (See attached image) well it might be but the oil light will come on under heavy braking and cornering. With extensive testing and different combinations in my experience fill the engine until the oil level is approx. 25% above the taper on the dipstick. I am not sure what this equates to in additional oil quantity or if indeed it matches the extra quantity of oil your dealers have recommended. This definitively worked for me, with zero issues of oil light coming on under heavy braking and cornering once filled as recommended above.

Enjoy your ride......Take care. Grandmaster Splash & His Furious Ride

i Randy ATV,

Go to Moose Utilities they are based in the USA with you.

The have a vast range of Cargo boxes that can be accommodated on your ride.


https://www.moose-offroad.com/

Enjoy your ride.........take care...........Grandmaster Splash & His Furious Ride

Hi KingHalifax,

The X8 LED headlamp bulbs are sealed units, you cannot obtain a bulb or worse still fit one.

The headlamp units are very expensive sealed units.

The remainder of the bulbs on this model are filament bulbs, I have exchanged all my filament bulbs for equivalent LED bulbs as filaments do not last long on the trail when off roading.

Enjoy your ride....stay safe........Grandmaster Splash & His Furious Ride