Yes I keep thinking about it and that's the only thing that makes sense to me going to order a new switch again!!! Lol. Hopefully it works. The fan works so that's my test right there

Is there a way I can test the rad switch with a volt meter or perhaps use a lazer thermometer to read my rad is at temp that fan should be running?

I'm sorry I should have added that the rad hoses in and out are very hot so I assume the coolant is circulating. So I'll look at the relays and connections again before going any further.

Coolant is topped up, and this is actually the 2nd rad switch I've had on it just because I assumed that was the issue off the hop when I got the fan to start by jumping. The relays are not marked on this unit I believe I had 4 relays that are all in a bunch off to the side beside the battery. I guess my best bet is to try to follow the cable to find which relay is which? I will play with the relays a bit maybe I'll change all of them to be safe. If the temp gauge isn't registering will that affect if the fan comes on? Or is that all on the coolant switch?

I have a 2014 trail tracker 500 2up. I have replaced the rad fan and the switch on the rad itself. I am able to run the fan by using a jumper wire instead of the rad switch. I find while the bike is idling the temp on the gauge doesn't rise, nor does the fan come on at all. After about 5-10mins the error light comes on and stays solid as this model doesn't flash a code. If I then jump the fan with a wire after a few minutes of the fan being on the error light then shuts off. It feels as if the bike is over heating but the temp gauge isn't moving nor is the rad fan switch turning the fan on. Does anyone have any thoughts on this or anyway I can safely test my theory without damaging the atv? How long should it take for a bar to show on the temp gauge?

Cooling temperature sensor

I have tried jumping the fan at the relay terminals and it for sure turns on, i do have new thermal switches in but they sent me 2 for my 800 when i was suppose to get 1 for each bike, anyone know if the 800 thermal switch will fit in the 500 trail tracker if i change the connector?

ive been researching the temperature sensor more and in the terralander manual one of the steps it says when diagnosing the fan not coming on is check the CTS and replace if not working. now ive been told the fan switch and the cts are not connected at all, i cant even see on the wire diagram how they would be connected. does anyone know why the manual would recommend this step?

Meant say since I wasn't registering a temperature

ok thanks the fan switches were both toast for sure, its just temp sensors i need to confirm are toast i just assumed they were since i was registering and temp on my gauge.

Ok thanks. I'm fairly confident i don't have any issues with the oil pressure switch just making sure i wasn't missing anything, but if those temperature sensors don't go bad often maybe ill need to investigate that a bit farther considering neither of my atvs are registering temperature.

I have not actually tested the temperature switch i just came to the assumption that it wasn't working. I have 2 bikes the terralander and a 500 trail tracker and neither of them seem to have a working temperature gauge. both had bad thermal switches, the trail track actually had a bad switch and a bad fan. The trail tracker i put on a manual marine on/off switch until the proper thermal switch comes in the mail, but appears to be working.

what are some of the possible symptoms of a bad oil pressure sensor?

so just an update on my bike, in total I found bad seals in the water pump (which I'm not a big fan on how you need to split the case to replace), a bad rad fan switch and it appears my Temperature sensor is fried as well. I replaced the bad seal, replaced the rad fan switch, gave it an oil change, filled with new clean coolant. I'm still waiting for the temperature sensor to come in the mail but seeing as a lot of bikes don't have temp gauges i'm not too concerned with it.

One more thing does anyone know if I need to take the bike in to get the faults cleared with the PDA or will they clear themselves or is there a reset procedure?

At the same time if it's not reading a temp on the gauge then it's prob not over heating lol.

As far as I can see electrically everything else is working. After the bike running for 5 mins or so my efi code signal comes on and just stays solid, I'm not sure what that means I kind of assumed maybe over heating? At that point I shut the bike off hoping not to do any damage. I think maybe 10 mins was the longest I had it on

The coolant is full and I did bleed the air out. I can feel the hoses and rad getting hot, and with the cap off can feel the coolant heating up. I do see I have coolant dripping from my leak indicator hole at the bottom of the water pump, I'm assuming that is the seals need to be replaced.