I have a 2014 trail tracker 500 2up. I have replaced the rad fan and the switch on the rad itself. I am able to run the fan by using a jumper wire instead of the rad switch. I find while the bike is idling the temp on the gauge doesn't rise, nor does the fan come on at all. After about 5-10mins the error light comes on and stays solid as this model doesn't flash a code. If I then jump the fan with a wire after a few minutes of the fan being on the error light then shuts off. It feels as if the bike is over heating but the temp gauge isn't moving nor is the rad fan switch turning the fan on. Does anyone have any thoughts on this or anyway I can safely test my theory without damaging the atv? How long should it take for a bar to show on the temp gauge?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

If you are jumpering the thermoswitch or fan switch on the radiator to make the fan run, then either the new switch is bad...which hundreds were, the coolant is low enough to expose the switch's sensor head or there is a connector problem as the rest of the system seems to be working. If you are jumpering it at the relay on the line and load terminals, the formentioned still applies but add that the relay may also have a problem...which also isn't anything new. Yes, when the coolant temperature sensor reaches a certain level..about 220F, not only should the pod show 5 or more bars, but the ECU will show an error code and flash the MIL light. 

Coolant is topped up, and this is actually the 2nd rad switch I've had on it just because I assumed that was the issue off the hop when I got the fan to start by jumping. The relays are not marked on this unit I believe I had 4 relays that are all in a bunch off to the side beside the battery. I guess my best bet is to try to follow the cable to find which relay is which? I will play with the relays a bit maybe I'll change all of them to be safe. If the temp gauge isn't registering will that affect if the fan comes on? Or is that all on the coolant switch?

If you can jump the connection to the temp switch on the radiator to get the fan to operate, then the switch is not kicking on when the engine gets hot (the gage on the dash is from a sensor on the engine).

That means the hot water is not getting from the engine to the radiator.

I would first check the thermostat on the engine as it has possibly failed preventing coolant from circulating.

After that, I would check the water pump.

As for the temp gage not registering, that may be a wiring issue (loose or disconneted?) or a bad sensor, and the ECU would flag that if it doesn't see appropriate values after the engine is run for a time.

I'm sorry I should have added that the rad hoses in and out are very hot so I assume the coolant is circulating. So I'll look at the relays and connections again before going any further.

Is there a way I can test the rad switch with a volt meter or perhaps use a lazer thermometer to read my rad is at temp that fan should be running?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Is there a way I can test the rad switch with a volt meter or perhaps use a lazer thermometer to read my rad is at temp that fan should be running?

You can just use a ohm meter as it is just an on/off switch. When the area close to it gets over 200-210 it should close/make contact so...open circuit until then, then closed. 

OK, the coolant is circulating. You can use an infra-red temperature gun to determine the temp of the coolant. They are fairly cheap at between $20 and $30.

If the temps are high, and the fan only works when jumping the switch, then the switch needs replacing.

Jumping the switch tests the remainder of the fan circuit, including the relay. The switch is what provides the power to throw the fan relay and energize the fan.

Yes I keep thinking about it and that's the only thing that makes sense to me going to order a new switch again!!! Lol. Hopefully it works. The fan works so that's my test right there

Fan is working now. Wiggled some wires and connections and working go figure