Hallelujah! I took the brand new primary out and pulled the sprag clutch (one way clutch) out and threw it in the bin, put it back together and its purring like a kitten. Either they had assembled it incorrectly or the bearing wasn't back far enough on the shaft. Thanks for your help!

The parts came assembled so I assumed they were factory set. The belt is definitely too high in the secondary and seems tight it dis make it rub on the outside cowling, correct. Regarding the idler I also assumed it was installed around the right way. The idler gets burning hot in seconds and when its not running i can reach into the cone of the primary and its not fully across the bottom of the v of the cone, not sure if this is normal..... I will take a photo. Thanks for your help!

Just put a new primary and secondary clutch and drive belt in and drove it up the hill, result is its real hard coming out of Gear when idling. I disconnected the park/gear selector to see if it is in the selector lever but the gearbox end of the lever is really stuck, after alot of persuasion it moves through the gears when not running but binds up whenever i start it up indicating that the idler bearing is faulty (its brand new) and getting really hot .... Has anyone had this issue? it all spins and looks fine so not sure whats happened - Arghhh Help!

Thanks, Do you know if there is a deck isolator?

Hi there, I'm hoping to get some help regarding isolator switches. My Moto won't engage the starter relay because one of the safety isolators could be inhibiting the start relay from powering up. I was wondering it the utility deck at the back has an isolator on it and where I can locate it to check its working. The handbrake light goes on and off on the dash so that's live and working and the brake lights are also working so I'm guessing that line is also live. So if I depress the brake and try to start her there's nothing. I can by pass the starter relay and it turns over fine suggesting it's some sort of micro switch or isolator somewhere...... ive attached a picture of the dash there's some light that I have no idea about also, looks like a steering wheel.

Anyone have any ideas, I'm out of them? 

UForce 2020 CF550
This machine was obviously never serviced and treated like a piece of trash for most of its short 3 year working life. The mongrel owner had swamped it and never cleaned it so the rear callipers are basically seized. Ive taken them off but nothing is moving the handbrake mechanism. Does anyone know if there Is a trick to these callipers?

Thanks for any ideas.....

Update: As the clutch was in such poor condition I've ordered a complete clutch kit. So to get ready for the install I had to remove the rear cone off the crank, I used the water (I used oil instead as I didn't want anything rusting) hydraulic method. My first few attempts failed as I didn't use thread tape (teflon or plumbers tape) which later made all the difference, rather than tip the unit up on its side I plugged up the end with Vaseline and used an oil can to top up the shaft once full I smeared the vas to plug it. I then used an impact gun to tighten up the left hand thread long clutch bolt which tries to compress the liquid however it can't compress it so the cone has no option but to release. The thread is in the cone end and working against the liquid the pressure pushes against the crank and the cone at the same time if that makes sense. I've got a remover tool coming in the post this week but alas I won't need it..... BTW It went off like a firecracker!

Thanks for the advice and info, the contamination is from my hands as I'd just finished replacing the camchain tensioner which died and jumped a tooth. The clutch was pretty clean in behind the cover before I touched it.

I'm interested to know what caused the cracking, whether incorrect installation in the past, the bearing collapsing or some other reason.  Its done 10,000km and was treated pretty rough before I got it.

Thanks for the help!

Hi there, I have a UTV with a Jerky CVT drive when starting off and stalls sometimes also hard to move into gear with the selector however when its switched off it goes into gear really easy. Ive taken the clutch off and the bearing seams tight non sprag type, the face of the outer clutch appears to have cracks and a ridge in it the belt itself is a Dayco and looks ok. Would this clutch be the source of my issues or should I try throwing a new belt in first?

Non wet clutch.

Hope you can help me figure out a fix!