After removing plastics to gain access from the side , I was able to use a strap wrench and I got about a quarter turn out of the ring. I can't see any more leaks right now and I guess I will have to wait for a hot summer day with a full tank of gas to really prove it out. Also they should have offset or angled the hose fittings on that top sender unit, there's a lot of strain on them hoses.
The push pin removal tool really works and it saved me a lot of time and anguish removing the panels but the replacement push pins from Amazon were slightly undersized and they were popping out without pulling the pin. I measured the OE pins and we need a 8.5 mm  pin to do the job.

Seems like an abnormally long time to build pressure.  Wondering if it needs to go in for warranty.

Watched the video and I can say that my 22 is about the same. Always blinked for a few seconds before turning off.

Noticed the same gas smell and I was able to confirm it's coming from around the ring that secures the gas sender unit. I tried tightening it by hand and it was not really loose but when turning the ring, the entire cap is turning. I didn't want to break any of the little plastic barbs that the hoses are hooked to and decided to gain better access to the area, plus I'm not sure if the gas leaks there or maybe somewhere else around that spot. I started pulling plastic grommets and screws and wow, that's a lot to take apart! Two questions: Anyone has a service manual to share for a "22 without the wet clutch? Where can I get some of those pesky plastic grommets cause I broke a few already. Is there a tool for easier removal? Thanks in advance!

The engine replacement was covered under cfmoto warranty and completed. I had to wait for 3 months for this to be done. I do not fault the dealership but CFmoto for this delay, they had to ship this thing from  China after the warranty claim was approved...
While waiting, the original warranty almost expired, and I did buy the extended warranty fearing that I would end up with another bad motor and be left to pay full price for a replacement.
I am breaking it in nice and slow, a lot of heat cycles as recommended by dealership.

Well, not the news I wanted to hear but just got word from the dealer that the engine is blown on my 2022 Trail.

I have less than 2o hours/180 miles on it and just did the first oil change. It did not have any prior signs of failure, ran quiet and cool, the oil pressure light went off within first 2 seconds of starting it, did not overheat... everything was looking well. Until it left me stranded in he woods. Started to knock really bad, I stopped to check if anything came loose, oil levels, etc. After that it didn't even crank anymore, I was lucky to get a tow back to the trailer from a small Polaris 4 wheeler.

Dealer told me that oil is full of crankshaft bearing pieces and it will submit a warranty claim. I sure hope that it will end up with a [better] engine replacement and I will get some good use of this machine but I'm starting doubting myself now for the purchase I made.

I'm getting ready for the first oil change n my 800 trail and I'm wondering if anyonne has some cross-reference to any aftermarket filters or what is everyone's experience with OEM oil filters. Anyone done some measurements of the OEM? Also is the dry clutch 2022 engine takes the same oil filter like the wet clutch pre-2022 version? I found the OEM part number 0800-011300-0004, is this correct?
Appreciate everyone's insight!

I see the ecommended oil is SAE 10-40W.  It does not say regular or synthetic.  Just breaking in my unit and need to know what type is suggested going forward.   Live in Georgia and not an abusive rider.

Lots of different opinions on this subject. Most will stick with conventional oils for break-in period and then switch to synthetics. If you have the dry clutch setup then you don't necessarily need the motorcycle grade oil. I am using Rottela T6 5w40 in all of my toys and motorcycles. Good price and never had an issue using it for many years now.

I am taking the wheels off for the first time in my Trail to grease the suspension, looks like the dealer didn't get to grease all of them , only the easy to reach ones..

Does anyone know what the serice manual calls for lug nuts torque value?
Taking the nuts off I used a reversible torque ranch and I found out to be torqued somewhere between 70-80 ft/pounds but can't trust the work of the dealer

Zforce 800 Trail Canadian owners manual. Covers late 2022 with dry clutch.

After contacting cfm customer support number, they send me an updated owners manual that covers the midyear model changes in 2022. Only notable differences i seen is the engine /transmission oil separation. It makes the distinction between models built before or after 3-15-2022.
Still interested in a shop manual for this model if anyone on here has a link please DM me. Thanks!

After just a few minutes of put-putting around the house I have not found the "sweet" spot and there is some jerkiness starting off in forward and reverse. It makes it harder to do any technical driving at slow speeds, and this is my preferred cup of tea . With my other ride I am able to move a couple inches forward or reverse with great accuracy and while in high gear! I will practice more or maybe there's some CVT tuning that I can do for this kind of riding - like different weights in primary or shimming?
I found a website for parts that shows some useful diagrams alpha-sports.com. Is the Snyper SSV the correct designation for the 800 trail?
Happy riding to all!

Thank you @NMKawierider for the reply. I am a little disappointed as I was under the impression that the 800 trail model has the wet clutch set-up that keeps a constant belt tension. I am familiar with the Yamaha's Ultramatic CVT and I have to say that system works great, I have a 8 years old machine with that system and I am still running the original belt in the CVT.
Trying to understand what kind system runs in my machine, does that means the primary sheave is spinning constantly with the engine and it's grabbing the belt as you increase the RPM? Basically just like Polaris and Canams are doing it?

Hello everyone, new 800 trail owner here, just picked up a new machine and I'm reading everything I can to get a good start owning and enjoying this new toy . Here are a few things I had questions about:
I have read about the oil filter must-have  UNI filter and I already ordered me a NU-8703ST filter. I have based this on the UNI website recommendation and as well as some other posts on here. The original filter has a brown outer foam sleeve and I did not see any oil to be present. However, it has a sock placed on the intake. I was questioning if the intake location is really a problem to warrant a relocation mod or is more of a convenience mod to allow for quicker filter checks and cleaning?
Second of the many questions I have is about the wet clutch. Do my unit has a wet clutch set-up ? With the separation of motor oil and transmission oil I have the dual dipstick set-up and I am 90% sure that the shorter dipstick by the oil filter is engine oil and the long skinny metal dipstick that's behind the passenger seat is transmission. The selling dealer told me the opposite... but that doesn't mean he's right!

And does anyone have a link to a service manual? I have tried a few links on here but none are working. The model of the unit is CF800US-A if that makes a difference.

Here is the picture of the protective sock they placed over the air intake, I don't know if it makes a difference at all.