What was the problem? Did you solve it?

I have the similar problem right now, but there shouldn't be any pressure switch. Also it happens when fuel pump is disconnected.

I can tell you from experience that if you remove the spark arrester and end completely it will reduce the back pressure enough that it will run too lean. See my writeup in the How Tos. When I just put the 2" tip on it with nothing else it was so lean it lost power, ran hot and the plugs were pure white. When I added back in the HMF spark arrester screen, it took it back into its range but just barely. It's still close.. on the lean-side but that's OK for this altitude. If I had to go any lower then 5000 feet I would have to put my OE end back on.

Just a wild guess but was it the motor with carburator and without fuel injection? I guess that with fuel injection motors the air and running lean problem should not be an issue?

I am asking because I am thinking adding larger exhaust tip and I've heard some rumours that bigger exhaust tip can also help to keep exhaust cooler as a bonus added to the motor working better.

Who bought the plates for the front suspension, could you attach a diagram or a photo with a ruler? I want to make it myself.

Same here, starting to make my own.

The old 800 has the same lenght shock and with some preeload adjusting the work on other machines as well as the have the same cc measuremants.

I have those shocks on my 520 (500s in the US) and I had to grind out some metall on the rear upper shock mount to make them fit.

Hello!

Thats good to know because I am looking also some better shocks for my 2020 cf520.

Can you tell what year cf800 shocks are compatible to cf520 and how much ride difference did you notice? And are both front and rear shocks compatible to cf520?

Also can you make some pictures of your machine on how you mounted and where did you grind the metal? It will be lot of help if you can post pictures also.

Best regards,
...

Isn't the Rotella T6 5w40 diesel oil? Diesel and gasoline oils are quite different and in gasoline motors, also like like atv-s it probably can harm your engine, starting with washing the seal between the cylinder walls and rings and finishing wiht catalytic converter.

As it comes to my opinion then the oil is the cheapest and simplest component and also importan aspect in maintaining engines good health and long life. Due to that there is need to watch for engine manufactures reccomendations for certain oil grade and classification in API class.

It's nice to hear someone else say that. I've argued the use of diesel oils in gasoline engines for years..especially in high RPM, High heat motorcycle engines. They are very different then low RPM, sooty engines, producing entirely different gasses and chemicals in the crankcase and yes, as such, use different materials in seal and other parts..as well as very different operations and sheering needs. But...so many here in the US have been using diesel oils in their gas machines for so long with no "immediate" damage, they all swear by it...and the cost is less. So I gave up in and quit the fight. I won't use it. I pay the extra for a better oil, Castrol Power RS or Power1, because it has everything for the most punished shared sump racing motorcycle engines on the planet....and these Chinese engines need all the help they can get. Besides, my dad always said, "Never go cheap on Fluids and Filters.. cause rebuilds aren't cheap. Make it last". Now I just say- Use what you want as long as it meets the manufacturer's requirements.

I agree with you 100%! I am Motul oils fan as it comes to ATV and Motorcycle-s and right now I am using Motul ATV-UTV Expert 10W-40. As my machine is quite new then I have changed oil more frequent than service manual recommends it. And right now I am thinking that maybe I need to start using Motul ATV Power 4T 5w-40 full synthetic oil.

Isn't the Rotella T6 5w40 diesel oil? Diesel and gasoline oils are quite different and in gasoline motors, also like like atv-s it probably can harm your engine, starting with washing the seal between the cylinder walls and rings and finishing wiht catalytic converter.

As it comes to my opinion then the oil is the cheapest and simplest component and also importan aspect in maintaining engines good health and long life. Due to that there is need to watch for engine manufactures reccomendations for certain oil grade and classification in API class.

Sorry for reviving an old thread. NMKawierider, do you forsee any issue running Rotella T6 in a 1000 that isn't wet clutch? I've finished my break in and am thinking to switch to full synthetic oil, just trying to decide which one.

Thanks

I use Rotella T6 5W40 in my 1000.  First oil change I did (after the first service done by dealer) I bought the overpriced CFMoto oil change kit, but after that I've always used the Rotella and a KN-152 filter from Amazon