Mine just started doing this too. It happens when I shift into reverse from park right after starting.

So, About six weeks ago I bought a 2014 800 EX with about 1250 miles on it for $5000 USD. It just had a new drive belt, winch and 8-ply tires. I drove it around for a few days and mechanically it seemed pretty good, but was prone to overheat. I removed the bodywork and found this machine had been rode hard and hung up wet.

Issues:
1) Had been completely submarined in heavy mud. It was everywhere an external power-washer couldn't get to. Had to remove all the body work and powerwash inside and out. Easily lost 50lbs of mud, half of that trapped over the belly skid plate. Elsewhere entire parts of the engine were entombed in dried mud.
2) Overheated easily - Radiators fins were plugged with mud. Also, replaced thermostat, flushed radiator.
3) Fan switch intermittent - Replaced fan switch (twice because I got the round connector initially and needed oval)
4) Brakes were very weak - Replaced all pads and master cylinder (front brakes weren't working at all), bled.
5) eBrake inop - Adjusted cable, replaced pads.
6) OEM skidplate destroyed - Had to cut it off, will need something after market, running without one now.
7) Driver side seatbelt locked up - Replaced.
Differential drain bolts seized - gave up trying to get them out, vacuumed out the gear oil best I could and replaced.

I stripped it down to the frame and cleaned it, changed all the fluids. Parts needed in order of expense:
1) Skid plate $200-$500 depending on OEM plastic or aftermarket metal -
2) Master Cylinder - $230
3) Seatbelt - $150
4) Brake Pads- $120
5) Fan Switch, Thermostat, fluids, fuel filter, air filter, extra hardware, plastic pop fasteners - $300

So far spent about $800 on parts (+ the skid plate eventually). Everything is working now, no overheating, good brakes, good power. So, I'm all in for about $6200 ($400 for tax/registration) + about 40 hours of work.

I just looked up the Canadian parts card for 2014 snyper 800 & this right from the card:

9010-080101-C000   BANJO BOLT (M10x31x1.25)

Nice. Unfortunately the parts lists / diagrams at Alpha-Sports just say "Banjo Bolt" without the details. Same goes for a lot of the bolts on the machine. I finally got mine completely re assembled and  wasn't sure exactly which M6 bolts (length, shouldered, etc.) went where. In any case, it's back together and I have the obligatory handful of extra nuts and bolts. I had it out on the farm today and it worked great. 

Hey fish, yea I ran across this also, I just ran a tap down to chase the threads and it worked ok.
don't  remember what tap it was just matched it up to the bolts.

So the original bolts are M10x1.0. The new master cylinder is tapped for M10x1.25. The local dealer was clueless. I had to buy different bolts from Home Depot to find the right pitch after buying an M10x1.5 banjo bolt from the local auto parts store that didn't fit everything ther.  I ordered new banjo bolts from Amazon. Should get them later today.

 

So, this is really frustrating. My master cylinder on a 2014 Z-Force 800 had failed (at least the front brakes were no-go). $250 for a new master and the banjo bolt threads are a different pitch. Looks like the original MC / banjo bolts had a M10 fine thread pitch and the new MC is coarse(er).

The shop and owners manual say nothing about these parts and online parts catalog don't have any details re the master cylinder banjo bolts. The parts diagram for the brake system doesn't even differentiate between the short bolt for the rear and the long bolt for the two front banjo lines.

Anyone encountered this issue or have an idea where I can get the correct banjo bolts?

I know on the King Quad with a very similar front axle 4wd system, it is possible to get the 4wd button and the actuator 'out of synch'. The control wants to send the actuator one way and it's baffled by the state it's in, already there. You have to unplug the motor and apply reverse polarity 12 volts to it with test leads the opposite way to what you did before, to reset it. At least on that machine.

That's exactly what I did. There's a separate relay to move it the opposite direction and that worked after I hotwired that relay to move it back.

NMK, thanks for emailing the wiring diagram. It's exactly what I need. Unfortunately for some reason I can seem to download files that get attached to messages on this site. I had tried to pull the wiring diagram from the sticky but all that rendered was a small corner of the image.

Thanks. I'm new to this (obviously).

My rear diff is locked. I assume that's not right. Is the rear diff supposed to be limited slip of some sort? If so, ever heard of it locking up?

A quick fan relay test would be - pull the connector off the fan switch(aka thermoswitch) which is on the right side of the radiator and jumper the two pins on the harness side with the key on. If the relay is OK, the fan will come on. If not...it won't.

Yeah found that out about the relay myself a while back. It's in there with the rest but not in the same order. Have to look at load wire colors.

Did that and the fan came on. I bought a new CFMoto thermos switch from the local dealer, but it has a different (round) connector. Mine is oval.

Fixed it. There are two relays, one moved the actuator one direction, the other in reverse. I manually activated the reverse relay to move the actuator back where it should be and whala, which means, 'and then I figured it out'.

It's still frustrating that fan relay isn't where the shop manual says it should be.

Hi all,

Does anyone here have a good grasp of how the electric front differential works because I seem to have screwed mine up.

Normal operation, push the 4WD button, a short motor noise
push front diff lock button and another motor noise.
reverse the sequence and the motor reverses.

I was trying to test my fan relay but instead jumpered my front diff relay (I recognized the sound of the diff motor). Now when I push the 4WD button, no sound. I'm not sure what state the diff is in or how to reset it so the buttons work.

know where I can find a simple diagram that indicates which relay is which?

My fan stopped working and I want to test the relay. The shop manual shows the fan relay as the second from left (when looking forward from pax seat), but when I jumpered that relay I heard the front diff motor engaging. I ran through the rest of the relays and found the starter motor and fuel pump, but no fan. I powered the fan directly so it works.

Also, to make matters worse, the 4WD button no longer seems to work (no engagement noise). I think I might need to 'reset' the front diff if my manual override of the relay screwed something up.

Hi All,

I just picked up a used 2014 Zforce 800 and I've been giving it a fluids overhaul and the drain bolts on both diffs are seized. The rear one started to round out so it may be toast. I figure I have two choices. Either I leave it be and suck the oil out the fill or I take it to the shop to have them remove them, which could ultimately mean drilling them out.

Anyone ever had this problem or any advice?

Thanks.