1
Pictures & Videos / How about an 800HP Hell Cat in a UForce!
« on: January 27, 2024, 11:34:54 AM »
Something you don't see every day:
This is a bit over the top.
This is a bit over the top.
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2
UForce 600 / MOVED: 2021 600 touring only displays when in diff lock
« on: December 01, 2023, 09:27:32 AM »
Wrong board. Go to C Force 600
3
Member-Created Videos / From our trip to the Carson NF
« on: August 27, 2023, 05:33:03 PM »
One of the rides we did last week in the Carson NF....and a few shots of the campsite.
4
General Discussion / Finally reached the end of the trail for my first Unifilter
« on: August 06, 2023, 11:08:51 AM »
I had put my first Unifilter bought in 2015 in my in-line "can" and an oversized Uni went in the airbox. Probably cleaned it 15-18 times in it's 8-year life. Today as I was cleaning it the inner/secondary filter just crumbled into bits but the RED outer is still fine. A new one is on order but I though I would post how long this one lasted me. Guess I better check the one in the air box as it's only a year or so newer.
5
Member-Created Videos / Some vids from our 7/24-7/28 Camping trip
« on: July 31, 2023, 09:15:48 AM »
Two quick vids. Next one is to Sipapu NM.
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Member-Created Videos / First trip to Gallina 2023
« on: May 29, 2023, 09:15:31 PM »
This one I took so much footage including drone stuff, I need to split it up into three vids. So..here's #1
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Member-Created Videos / Our first trip this year
« on: May 13, 2023, 10:25:15 AM »
Went South to the Lincoln National Forrest for the first time. Didn't do a lot of riding so this is a short..but fun video. Enjoy.
8
General Discussion / CF Moto Primary Clutch Pullers
« on: April 18, 2023, 05:25:01 PM »
EPI is starting work on building a quality clutch pullers for CF Moto and looking for some information from those that have bought one or have access to them that can answer a few questions.
Firstly there shows to be two..in that although both have the same part number, one had an "A" at the end. Wondering what the difference might be if any.
The next batch of info is specs for verification. The shaft size(s) and where it changes, the thread location and it's size and pitch, noise size & length. And the head size. All this will be metric.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys. This is the kind of info we are looking for:
NMK
Firstly there shows to be two..in that although both have the same part number, one had an "A" at the end. Wondering what the difference might be if any.
The next batch of info is specs for verification. The shaft size(s) and where it changes, the thread location and it's size and pitch, noise size & length. And the head size. All this will be metric.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys. This is the kind of info we are looking for:
NMK
9
How To's (New Topics are to be Instructional Only) / How to set the speedometer calibration on many newer CFMs
« on: March 21, 2023, 01:40:28 PM »
Thanks to "IronHeadBiker" (and myself for trimming it up) we have this video to help calibrate many newer CFM speedometers.
10
How To's (New Topics are to be Instructional Only) / How To Set Up Suspension on a Z Force Trail for the best ride on stock shocks
« on: March 15, 2023, 10:31:42 AM »
Stock settings always varied from the factory but in all cases the stock suspension always sucked especially on the trails. The best thing to do is go with a set of Elka or Bandit shocks. However you can set the OEs to get you by until then. Maybe not a "dreamy" ride but definitely short of a "nightmare".
A couple of points to remember are:1- all suspension works it best when set in the middle of it's travel, which we will call 50/50, that's half of it's total available travel going either way..to 60/40, that's 60% of it's travel toward the compression side (downward) and 40% on the rebound side(extend or upward). 2-Angle of attack or the difference between the front and rear which sets the caster angle.
First we set the ride height. We do that by first placing on a flat surface then jacking it up the rear until the shocks are fully extended and just start to raise the the tires. Measure from the bottom of the hitch to the ground and loosen the spring preload adjuster locks and mark the adjuster on the side with a sharpie, then back each way off counting the turns. Very important. Do each and write it down. Both must be exactly the same. Now let it down and load the rear with enough weight to just bottom out the shocks on the bumpers inside. Measure from the floor to the bottom of the hitch again. Find the halfway point between the two readings. From there to about an inch more is your target height. Now load the vehicle with all the weight it will normally carry in passengers and storage..front, back and cab. Jack the rear back up and start adjusting the preloads down checking every so often until you are in the range you want and give it a bounce or two to confirm, then lock the rings.
Now for the front. Measure from the rear of the skid plate as far rear and center as you can to the ground. Jack up the front, unlock and mark those and let it back down. Measure the very front center of the skid plate. Set the front height to be between level with the back to not more then 3/4" lower then the rear when done fully loaded. 1/2" is best.
OK, the hard part is now done.
Now to set the compression and I don't think the rears have this on the trails but it will be the upper knob, make sure it's clear of any dirt and turn them wide open or all the way to "fast" then one click toward the slow on all with compression. You can go all the way open but the shocks may..may bottom out on large impacts. Maybe not-can always try it.
Now to set the rebound. This is the lower knob. Make sure it too is clear of dirt and fully open it then close it counting the clicks. Find the center and click toward the "slow" position one click. If you still get some tire bounce, go one or two more toward the "Slow".
Now set your tire pressure between 8-10psi. I suggest 8-8.5.
Ok, you are done. Take it for a test ride and make whatever minor adjustments needed.
A couple of points to remember are:1- all suspension works it best when set in the middle of it's travel, which we will call 50/50, that's half of it's total available travel going either way..to 60/40, that's 60% of it's travel toward the compression side (downward) and 40% on the rebound side(extend or upward). 2-Angle of attack or the difference between the front and rear which sets the caster angle.
First we set the ride height. We do that by first placing on a flat surface then jacking it up the rear until the shocks are fully extended and just start to raise the the tires. Measure from the bottom of the hitch to the ground and loosen the spring preload adjuster locks and mark the adjuster on the side with a sharpie, then back each way off counting the turns. Very important. Do each and write it down. Both must be exactly the same. Now let it down and load the rear with enough weight to just bottom out the shocks on the bumpers inside. Measure from the floor to the bottom of the hitch again. Find the halfway point between the two readings. From there to about an inch more is your target height. Now load the vehicle with all the weight it will normally carry in passengers and storage..front, back and cab. Jack the rear back up and start adjusting the preloads down checking every so often until you are in the range you want and give it a bounce or two to confirm, then lock the rings.
Now for the front. Measure from the rear of the skid plate as far rear and center as you can to the ground. Jack up the front, unlock and mark those and let it back down. Measure the very front center of the skid plate. Set the front height to be between level with the back to not more then 3/4" lower then the rear when done fully loaded. 1/2" is best.
OK, the hard part is now done.
Now to set the compression and I don't think the rears have this on the trails but it will be the upper knob, make sure it's clear of any dirt and turn them wide open or all the way to "fast" then one click toward the slow on all with compression. You can go all the way open but the shocks may..may bottom out on large impacts. Maybe not-can always try it.
Now to set the rebound. This is the lower knob. Make sure it too is clear of dirt and fully open it then close it counting the clicks. Find the center and click toward the "slow" position one click. If you still get some tire bounce, go one or two more toward the "Slow".
Now set your tire pressure between 8-10psi. I suggest 8-8.5.
Ok, you are done. Take it for a test ride and make whatever minor adjustments needed.
11
How To's (New Topics are to be Instructional Only) / ZForce Tilt Steering adjustment
« on: March 07, 2023, 03:02:52 PM »
How to adjust the tilt mechanism on any Z or U with this type of tilt.
12
How To's (New Topics are to be Instructional Only) / Oil/Lube Catchcan Mod For Differencials and Gear Cases.
« on: December 29, 2022, 03:16:03 PM »
For decades now the concept of a catchcan on crank case breather tubes has been the solution for oil being cast up these tubes and into air boxes and/or just out and all over things. Its really just an expanded area where particles and oil mist slow down because of the size, collect or condense on the sides, run down and back into the engine case. As we have been having this issue with our diffs and gear cases I suggested using any type of inline fuel filter that can be placed vertically, should be just as effective. A member found this one on Amazon and installed it. So far it has ended his problem.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753F6PF4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Sense I too have been having this problem even after reducing the level to what the book calls for, I also bought one and installed it. Here's a pic of how I did mine on the rear.
It comes with a replaceable fuel filter which I decided to leave in to stop any passage of particles either way. It fits the vent tube a little tight but a quick twisting of a flat-blade screwdriver in the tube helps greatly. This can be done on any machine, front and/or rear. Simple and cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753F6PF4?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Sense I too have been having this problem even after reducing the level to what the book calls for, I also bought one and installed it. Here's a pic of how I did mine on the rear.
It comes with a replaceable fuel filter which I decided to leave in to stop any passage of particles either way. It fits the vent tube a little tight but a quick twisting of a flat-blade screwdriver in the tube helps greatly. This can be done on any machine, front and/or rear. Simple and cheap.
13
How To's (New Topics are to be Instructional Only) / Cage Chop Mod- 2014-2017 ZForce 800s and 500s (Likely through to 2022)
« on: December 23, 2022, 08:19:09 PM »2014-2017 CFMoto ZForce Cage Chop Mod
This mod is basically the same as outlined by Chad (Chuddly) back in 2016 when he was one of the first to do this. I think “Flash” did his about the same time. Anyway, first review Chad’s video because this follows his direction. Here is his video:
First like he says remove the center bar and grind all welds off. I found my porta-band very helpful during all of this project.
In his video it stated it was important to make straight cuts so I used a hose clamp to help me get a straight line around the tubing. Marked the lower first being the same on both sides then measuring up 5”, making a mark, then positioned the clamp, then marking all the way around. Both sides need to be identical as possible:
Now do the same for the one that will be rotated up on top on each side:
Position your cutting device, weather it is a band saw or a saws-all so that you will make straight through cuts. Once cut loosen the front cage bolts so it can move:
Affix something to hold/support the cage while you make minor adjustments. I used a strap to a lift point in the ceiling.
Lower the cage and check the fitment of the pieces. Make any angle corrections to both sides to make the seam straight.
Once this was done, I took the cut-out sections (NOT the center one) and cut 1.5” pieces out, then split them taking about ¼” out so I could roll them smaller to fit into the tubing to help hold the joint straight while welding:
Bevel all ends and clean paint off just in that area. Pay attention to the roof mounting point angles as they need to be the same:
Weld all those joints up and clean-up with grinder:
Now for the center piece. Use the piece you cut out. Know that where the bar will be positioned is likely farther apart then the ends so just sliding it in will require you to spread the bars apart slightly which is easily done with a bar clamp. Make it a bit too long and adjust as needed to fit tight. I was able to rig-up a jig with my drill press to cut the piece. Once in and centered, weld it in.
Clean up the welds, wipe it down with Acetone and paint it. I found just Rustoleum flat black looks pretty close:
OK, now for re-assembly. Before we start this project I would like to point out a few things that no one talks about, Things like:
· If you have a rear windshield, it will no longer fit without some modification and if that shield is the Polycarbonate with hard surfacing, you will blister it before it gets hot enough to bend and the hard surfacing will show micro-cracks in it after bending so be prepared. If yours is just the plexi-glass, no problem with bending.
· On the roof some mounts won’t line up and will either have to be re-drilled or the mounts moved..or like Chad said, just sandwiched with washers. I re-drilled mine as you will see in the upcoming pics.
· Depending on if you have snorkels or stacks like mine you may have to trim some of the rear lower roof line as it will stick out farther then it did before.
· If you had your front light bar mounted through the plastic roof to some bar clamps, expect to modify those as the angles have changed…as well as some front windshield parts and brackets
· If you have full doors expect to have to either modify the slam latch mount a bit and/or make some adjustments.
OK, onward. Roof and rear window. What a pain PITA. Had to chop-up my SATV rear window and bend it some to fit. Some minor blistering but most is behind bars and roof plastic so it’s not too noticeable:
On the roof, I chose to drill two new holes through the window and roof to use as upper mounts and not move the existing cage brackets. I just cut two pieces of flat stock, painted them and covered the old holes with it. Probably repaint later with something closer to the right color:
The stacks needed lowered and the roof lower edge was now in the way so a “little off the bottom please”:
On the stacks, I needed to lower them enough so that the top of the Donaldson would be at roof line in prep for the S&B.. so it was closer to a 6” reduction. Took a bit but got it. Looks OK:
Got the rest together and took it outside for a quick photo shoot. Doesn’t look so..”Chinese” anymore…lol. Hope all this helps for your decision on whether or not to do a cage mod.
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General Discussion / A sneak-peek Z800 Cage Chop
« on: December 20, 2022, 08:46:25 PM »
I finally started the cage chop mod I wanted to do sense buying mine is 2015. I'll be doing a full write-up with plenty of pics in the How To section but first, a quick look at the new roof profile.
15
Information Center / Wheel Bearing Greasers
« on: December 20, 2022, 08:23:05 PM »
When you look for one for the ZForces or others with small 30mm bore size the cost can be 30+ USD is some cases. I found several that I thought I would try while having my front axle out and finding the bearings needed lube. The first one was for a Can Am but was spaced and sized right for my Z so I ordered it. It did take over a month to arrive from China but it worked just fine. It does require the axles to be out of the bearing though..but its only 13 USD. This is it:
https://www.amazon.com/Maverick-293350040-Commander-Defender-Outlander/dp/B09K7FVJYW?pd_rd_w=4YWWz&content-id=amzn1.sym.80bfd2e5-c81d-48d5-ae85-c500e2214af9&pf_rd_p=80bfd2e5-c81d-48d5-ae85-c500e2214af9&pf_rd_r=F2SZPKBM4A9F13GMW8K6&pd_rd_wg=i4ebF&pd_rd_r=adcc9dbf-738c-413e-80d5-7b672dd87121&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_csi_pd_ys_c_rfy_rp_crs_0_t
The next one, unlike the one above, is one that can be used with the axle still in on some machines, but you will have to remove the nut, hub and push the axle in as far as you can. I have not received this one yet but will be there in a day or so and will test it on the other side. Where the one above is 29mm this one is 29.96mm and may have a problem fitting without adjustment so let me test it first. It's only 15 USD This is it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/403718973725
.
UPDATE: The second one came and will not work with the axle intact. You will still have to remove the knuckles to grease your bearings and either one of these will work but...after doing the other side with the second one I have to say I like the RED first one better because I like to take it slow and rotate the bearing after every little pump or two so as to push out all the old grease, pack the new in evenly and not warp the dust seals any more then necessary. The second one touches the cir-clip holding the bearing in a little at the knurling where the other doesn't. But it did work OK.
https://www.amazon.com/Maverick-293350040-Commander-Defender-Outlander/dp/B09K7FVJYW?pd_rd_w=4YWWz&content-id=amzn1.sym.80bfd2e5-c81d-48d5-ae85-c500e2214af9&pf_rd_p=80bfd2e5-c81d-48d5-ae85-c500e2214af9&pf_rd_r=F2SZPKBM4A9F13GMW8K6&pd_rd_wg=i4ebF&pd_rd_r=adcc9dbf-738c-413e-80d5-7b672dd87121&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_csi_pd_ys_c_rfy_rp_crs_0_t
The next one, unlike the one above, is one that can be used with the axle still in on some machines, but you will have to remove the nut, hub and push the axle in as far as you can. I have not received this one yet but will be there in a day or so and will test it on the other side. Where the one above is 29mm this one is 29.96mm and may have a problem fitting without adjustment so let me test it first. It's only 15 USD This is it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/403718973725
.
UPDATE: The second one came and will not work with the axle intact. You will still have to remove the knuckles to grease your bearings and either one of these will work but...after doing the other side with the second one I have to say I like the RED first one better because I like to take it slow and rotate the bearing after every little pump or two so as to push out all the old grease, pack the new in evenly and not warp the dust seals any more then necessary. The second one touches the cir-clip holding the bearing in a little at the knurling where the other doesn't. But it did work OK.