Ordered a 42" LED light bar that will be here today for the zforce 500.  Claims 240watts so I'm assuming 20amps.  Can my stator keep up with this or will it drain the battery?  Only other non stock electrical piecce on board are cheap speakers with tiny amp.  Only running light bar at night while driving (which isn't often).  Thanks!

That is a lot of watts for an LED light.  Perhaps you mean "effective 240 watts", like they put on LED lights for house.  I mean MFR lists "equivalent 70 watts", actual watts = 9w  or something  similar.

In any case, I don't think OEM can keep up with that 240w amount.  Others may know more....

YMMV

That is a lot of watts for an LED light.  Perhaps you mean "effective 240 watts", like they put on LED lights for house.  I mean MFR lists "equivalent 70 watts", actual watts = 9w  or something  similar.

In any case, I don't think OEM can keep up with that 240w amount.  Others may know more....

YMMV

Yeah I was hoping the same.  But they said 80 small LEDs at 3w each.  I may have to reconsider my purchase.....

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

The accessory circuit takes up about 90-95% of the tail of what is left that the stator can put out after all other draws are considered and are on at the same time. And that circuit is usually fused with a 10 amp fuse. So effectively, if you have everything on at the same time..ie all lights including brake lights and you are at max assist with the P/S unit, then you have about 11-12 extra amps to play with. That is all. But like Siberian says, LED's effective wattage don't convert straight across to amp draw. I found that my ..little..22" light bar was supposed to pull about 9 amps but it actually only pulled 4.6 so..somewhere about half. Same for my little 7" on back..should have pulled about 5 but actually pulled only 2.4.

The accessory circuit takes up about 90-95% of the tail of what is left that the stator can put out after all other draws are considered and are on at the same time. And that circuit is usually fused with a 10 amp fuse. So effectively, if you have everything on at the same time..ie all lights including brake lights and you are at max assist with the P/S unit, then you have about 11-12 extra amps to play with. That is all. But like Siberian says, LED's effective wattage don't convert straight across to amp draw. I found that my ..little..22" light bar was supposed to pull about 9 amps but it actually only pulled 4.6 so..somewhere about half. Same for my little 7" on back..should have pulled about 5 but actually pulled only 2.4.

Good info, thanks!  So hopefully this will only draw 11-12 and I will shut my radio off at night while running.  I have a 35ah battery I could plumb in to buy me some time, or maybe carry my duracell battery backup in case a jump is needed?  And if the place I'm staying at has ac power, could bring a battery tender for overnight.

I find it hard to believe that a single LED is 3w.  Whatever.  Since you are going down the road of "Possible Zero Power" you may need to add a gauge to help you out.

I am converting a simple box cargo trailer to a Toy Hauler-Camper trailer.  I added LED lights, 120v Converter (120v >>12v), 600w 12v Inverter (12v>>120v), outlets for Alpicool Fridge (Extreme low power use, like 5-6w/hr) other 12v outlets, 120v TV/DVD player, pump for H20 shower, and so on.  I am making the whole thing operate with 2 batteries (120amp +100amp) and 2 zoomie 100w solar panels.  I want to go places, do things, etc OFF-Grid. The entire system is independent from tow truck.  It is important to know what is in the batteries.

Perhaps look at "150A High Precision Watt Meter and Power Analayzer".  I don't remember where I got it, Amazon maybe.  It operates at 8-60v.
It reads: A - what is running now, V - battery voltage now, Ah - what is being used, and W-what is running.

It cost about $15 IIRC.  Simple to add, connects to -/grnd and +/from supply, anywhere after the battery.  It is sensitive enough to detect if I turn on 1 more LED light, or even turn on digital temperature display meter.

I have tested LED lights and found similar very low "actual current draw", but it still adds up.  If your new LightBar is a power hog, ditch it. 

Rely on jump or power pack or battery tender is too "iffy" IMO.   A best solution would be to actually know what things eat battery/alternator power and what to do about it.  Since you want to add something, maybe a "power hog" is just too much.  BTW, I do not know if CFMoto ATV/UTVs can take a "jump start" without having something like a power surge protection on battery, unknown, IMO avoid it and the risk to on-board computers.

FWIW, I also put in a microwave in my trailer.  I only plug it in to (in-coming) shore power, never the inverter, and never without shore power.  It is nice to have microwave, but OK if not available.  After all, camping and such isn't about speed cooking.

Just my thoughts.

YMMV 

I find it hard to believe that a single LED is 3w.  Whatever.  Since you are going down the road of "Possible Zero Power" you may need to add a gauge to help you out.

I am converting a simple box cargo trailer to a Toy Hauler-Camper trailer.  I added LED lights, 120v Converter (120v >>12v), 600w 12v Inverter (12v>>120v), outlets for Alpicool Fridge (Extreme low power use, like 5-6w/hr) other 12v outlets, 120v TV/DVD player, pump for H20 shower, and so on.  I am making the whole thing operate with 2 batteries (120amp +100amp) and 2 zoomie 100w solar panels.  I want to go places, do things, etc OFF-Grid. The entire system is independent from tow truck.  It is important to know what is in the batteries.

Perhaps look at "150A High Precision Watt Meter and Power Analayzer".  I don't remember where I got it, Amazon maybe.  It operates at 8-60v.
It reads: A - what is running now, V - battery voltage now, Ah - what is being used, and W-what is running.

It cost about $15 IIRC.  Simple to add, connects to -/grnd and +/from supply, anywhere after the battery.  It is sensitive enough to detect if I turn on 1 more LED light, or even turn on digital temperature display meter.

I have tested LED lights and found similar very low "actual current draw", but it still adds up.  If your new LightBar is a power hog, ditch it. 

Rely on jump or power pack or battery tender is too "iffy" IMO.   A best solution would be to actually know what things eat battery/alternator power and what to do about it.  Since you want to add something, maybe a "power hog" is just too much.  BTW, I do not know if CFMoto ATV/UTVs can take a "jump start" without having something like a power surge protection on battery, unknown, IMO avoid it and the risk to on-board computers.

FWIW, I also put in a microwave in my trailer.  I only plug it in to (in-coming) shore power, never the inverter, and never without shore power.  It is nice to have microwave, but OK if not available.  After all, camping and such isn't about speed cooking.

Just my thoughts.

YMMV

Yeah I'm gonna hook a meter up to it before I install it and see what it's really drawing.  I did the same thing you did w Toy Hauler and made a YouTube channel out of it.  Here's one of the first vids, I've come a long way with mods since then and are are shown in other vids.

https://youtu.be/2VP6q07ieQI

I actually just got dual axles and brakes installed today w a 6-8" added lift.

I will report back on that light, it's a nilight brand. 

What is thing circled in the screen shot?

Curious.

YMMV

What is thing circled in the screen shot?

Curious.

YMMV

It is a 5 port switch panel.  I have everything 12vdc in the trailer.  Ironically, going back to original post, it's made by Nilight who makes that light bar I was referring too.  I've decided to just get some spots/floods and mount them to where the rear mirrors used to be and return the light bar.  Then, I can run that off cig lighter port and use original battery without having to add more batteries or cable runs!

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Rocker-Switch-Waterproof-Warranty/dp/B09CQ3PBXT/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?keywords=nilight%2Bswitch%2Bpanel&qid=1648122684&sprefix=nilight%2Bswitch%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-22-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzOUoxM0JHWUY4OVg1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDIwNTIxMTgxSU9SVkk2UU5LMCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTExMjA2MTVHUkpFSFozN1NYTyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2J0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1