[WhyTheFace]

Had time for a little more testing. CPS tests out fine.  The resistance is 1K ohm like it should be, and it produced over 2V during cranking (I think it was 4-6V).  The Speed Sensor seems bad though.  It should alternate between 0 and 12V, but I'm only getting .2 - .4 volts off the signal pin when powered and I put a bolt head up to the tip of the sensor. When installed it does not change or alternate as I turn the back wheels(very slowly). There is power going to the connector, so I'm thinking I need a speed sensor.  But, even with the speed sensor unplugged, there is no change in any of the other symptoms. The fuel pump still runs and start button does nothing. 
I also tried to test the injector, and Im getting about 6V DC at the connector with the key on, but the injector does not spray.  I know it should be a pulse from the ECU, but I don't have a light to see if its pulsing. I also saw in the service manual that the Idle Air Valve is connected to the fuel pump relay, so I'm going to try and test that next, but not sure what I can test other than its resistance.

[WhyTheFace]

Well, I think I finally found my problem. After hours of testing and searching for wiring issues, I still didn't want to pull the trigger and order a new ECU, so I decided to open up the current one and see if I could see any issues to verify if it's bad or compromised.  I could see there was some dirt way up in the connector suggesting water had been in there, and also I could see a spot around the outside of the shell where no sealant was visible, meaning Bosch didn't get it sealed up well.  So I warmed it up with a heat gun to soften the sealant and pried it open(gently).  See pics. I found water, corrosion, burned connector pins, etc.  So I will be replacing this ECU and will update if that is the end of my issues. Hopefully before new years. 

[NMKawierider]

Wow...yeah that'll do it.