[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Battery is good, kill switch tests good, fuel pump runs when fed direct, starter turns when fed direct.

However... one of the lines under the driver seat registers voltage where the other does not. Even when turning key to on and to start. Not sure which does what as the wires to both fuses are both red & red/white. Are there more fuses?

Would be open to looking at a schematic if a link was given.

One is your main accessory power. That's where all systems get their operational power. The other is the PS motor power. If you don't have PS then it's the winch power fuse. Anyway, there are reports of many failed fuse holders on the main power fuse. There are failed crimp connections inside that won't blow a fuse, just stop power right there. Test it. If it has power on one side but not the other...and the fuse is in it, cut it out and replace it. Below is the circuit. As the Winch was considered an accessory, it wasn't included on this diagram before 2018.

Battery is good, kill switch tests good, fuel pump runs when fed direct, starter turns when fed direct.

However... one of the lines under the driver seat registers voltage where the other does not. Even when turning key to on and to start. Not sure which does what as the wires to both fuses are both red & red/white. Are there more fuses?

Would be open to looking at a schematic if a link was given.

One is your main accessory power. That's where all systems get their operational power. The other is the PS motor power. If you don't have PS then it's the winch power fuse. Anyway, there are reports of many failed fuse holders on the main power fuse. There are failed crimp connections inside that won't blow a fuse, just stop power right there. Test it. If it has power on one side but not the other...and the fuse is in it, cut it out and replace it. Below is the circuit. As the Winch was considered an accessory, it wasn't included on this diagram before 2018.

there has never been a winch fuse, just a solenoid. Which the solenoid itself probably has overload protection.

If the dash is lighting up, the fuses under the seat are good and have power to them. You should have a small black box attached to the steering column support under dash, there are mini fuses in there.

Update: she is running again:!

Did a number of things... at least one but maybe more did the trick:

- Replaced all fuses with new, some had slight corrosion on the contacts
- the battery ground bolt easily stripped when i tried to tighten it (replaced)
- the ecm looking thing above the steering column was very loose. Tightened it and sanded the ground wire that secures to it.
- there was a 4 wire connector at the botom front of the engine that had somehow become unlatched and showed clear signs of being loose. Disconnected, cleaned and re-seated it.

Thanks to all who replied and offered support! Maybe the next project I'll try and tackle is an oil change and drive belt replacement

Awesome!

Loose connections would certainly be suspicious ;-)

Pictures next time so the rest of know what to look for :-)

Gremlin came back... now blows the fuel system fuse continuously - even when I unplug the connector to the pump...

Thinking there must either be a short somewhere or something else in the circuit that is misbehaving- like the fuel pressure meter?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

I'd say there's a melting or pinched harness or connector somewhere causing a short.

Fairly confident I found the root of the problem... the section of the harness that connects all the items on top of the engine had been routed right next to the exhaust shroud - wires and copper are clearly visible through the tape and sheathing where obvious melting has occurred.

Suspect it was removed at one point due to the scribbled tape labels on each connector... something tells me the harness should go around the outside of the CVT pipe instead to keep it from being able to rest on the exhaust?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Fairly confident I found the root of the problem... the section of the harness that connects all the items on top of the engine had been routed right next to the exhaust shroud - wires and copper are clearly visible through the tape and sheathing where obvious melting has occurred.

Suspect it was removed at one point due to the scribbled tape labels on each connector... something tells me the harness should go around the outside of the CVT pipe instead to keep it from being able to rest on the exhaust?

Yeah..one would think...lol

That'a the EFI harness that goes thru LH side of the lower frame rail to the ECU. I just swapped one out chasing a Hi idle problem for over a year. The factory harness is poorly routed where it goes over top of the exhaust, they know it as it is heat wrapped in that area. Only the heat shield & very little air space......

As you are thinking I would diffidently look to re routing 

In that harness is the 5vdc wiring for the senors, TPS etc. It's a full day to change it as the lower floor pan needs to come out. It's not that expensive or difficult to swap.

I cut open the harness and the damage was not that bad so I did a little cutting, soldering  and heat shrinking. It has been starting and running reliability all day.

I am getting a rear injector circuit error though. Do codes continue to display once tripped even after they have been fixed? I'd think it would not be running well at all if only one injector was working.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

I cut open the harness and the damage was not that bad so I did a little cutting, soldering  and heat shrinking. It has been starting and running reliability all day.

I am getting a rear injector circuit error though. Do codes continue to display once tripped even after they have been fixed? I'd think it would not be running well at all if only one injector was working.

I was told that they don't store fault codes...but you know how that is...lol

Very true, though it has me worried that the short may have damaged the injector

The fault codes aren't stored and disappear when the fault is corrected.

You can ohm out the injector to see if it is damaged.

Common reasons for faulty Injector circuit:

Defective fuel injector
Dirt in fuel injector causing clogging
Faulty wiring in fuel injector
Corroded fuel injector
Open or shorted fuel injector
Injector having low internal resistance (fuel injector working outside its specifications)
Grounded driver circuit
Shorted to voltage driver circuit
Wiring harness shorting intermittently against components under the hood

You could swap injector positions to see if the code follows the injector or does not change. If it does not change, then the wiring is suspect.

Are there any other codes?

Swapping the wiring is a great idea!

Thanks Doug!!

Same code after swap... harnesses in my experience can often be more trouble to repair than to replace, anyone have a recommendation of where to get a new one?