I just stumbled across this forum a week ago and found a number of great threads, but you guys are going to cost me money....I found way too many cool things on this site and now I want to upgrade my antique, a 2012 Terracross 625EX.

First, the flip up windshield, I spoke with Super ATV and the say it won't fit but I am determined to have one, I think the only adjustment needed will e to trim the width of the windshield a small amount, hopefully, the height will work. I checked part numbers for the fiberglass hood at Alpha Sports and it appears that the Z800 and my Z6 use the same hood, so the bottom contour and the width between the roll cage bars start out the same. what I need to know is the inside dimension between the tubes at the top of the upper clamp and the height from the fiberglass hood to the top of the upper clamp, if someone who has one installed could get these dimensions for me I would be forever grateful.

Next subject is a lift kit, I read here about the Rzr kit that involves changes at both ends of the shock and looking at the lower mounting points today my thoughts are to have my welder install a much heavier gauge bracket with the desired additional mounting height, 2" or 3" not sure but leaning towards 3". This would give me the same height and angle as extending the mounting brackets 1 1/2" top and bottom and I think it would be a much stronger modification then the kit, I have read about the modifications that some of you have done and collectively there is a great deal of knowledge and wisdom on this forum and I would greatly appreciate any input that you all might have about this.

After seeing Rodin's doors on this site I scoured the web all week looking at doors and I am ordering a set of doors and door bags from Rodin this week, it looks as if he has the best product by far. I was worried about additional noise being trapped inside by the metal doors and then I saw the door bags which should take care of that issue, I am a bit worried about the cab being hotter inside.

A rear windshield and LED lights should finish it up for me....until I find another modification on this site that looks interesting, oh yeah like getting rid of the inside air intake, will it ever stop.

On the lift, if you are stiffening up the mounting points going 3 inches on one side will work, the kit probably went 1.5 inches on each side to keep the leverage at a minimum, the longer you make something mount point to mount point the more stress gets put on the part and the welds. Just keep in mind axle bindage, also if you change the angle of the shock making it more upright you will end up with more lift than intended and less shock travel stiffer ride. if you move it the other way the opposite happens.

I thought the same that extending one side 3" would put too much stress on the joint especially with the metal the the factory uses being so thin, that is why I plan to cut off the old u shaped bracket completely and replace it with a new one made with 1/4" stock. Extending both the upper and lower mounting points 1 1/2" results in the shock being at the exact same angle as raising only the lower one 3", but while the angle and the lift gained would be identical either way the shock would be positioned 1 1/2"  higher overall by raising only the bottom bracket 3", both methods will reduce the verticle angle of the shock the same amount. The amount of height gained will always be less than what these kits advertise due to the fact the shock is not completely verticle, because of this I am expecting to gain about 2 1/4" with the 3" extension.  You have completely lost me with axle bindage, can you please explain.

Actually My lift kit I put in gave me more than advertised as it stood my shock more upright just a little bit, I compensated by reducing my preload.
Axle bindage,  When you lift it this way you are going to increase the angle of your cv axles assuming you have CV's I know nothing about you machine. Some machines can take more lift than others, if your machine already sits with a decent axle angle increasing the lift will increase this angle even more, you have to make sure that when the suspension hangs that the axle doesn't bind and the wheel can still turn freely or you'll break or wear out an axle cv joint quickly.

I have been down this road with my z6. I have some posts about how they mounted the rear diff below the bottom a arm. The axles will only angle up. If you try to get a downward angle on the axle it will bottom out in the cup. I tried a bracket lift and the wining sound coming from the rear diff was horrible. I also tried to figure out a way to get the diff centered. That would be a major project. I eventually settled on RZR 800 shocks and shorted my rear axles by 1/2" or more. Try checking the in and out play with it on the ground. Now Jack it up even pull the lower shock bolt out and let the a arm down a little bit. The play will be gone. That's pretty bad for the diff.