[Yooper600]

Hello everyone! I'm new to the forum. I cant seem to find anything on the 600 rancher utv.
So This is a long story but I'll try to make it short. The machine starts and runs for about 30 seconds and dies. I can however keep it going when i push the thorottle. The fuel pump kicks on and sounds good when key is turned on. Ive put in a new fuel filter, a new injector, a new map sensor, and a new ecu. Ive swapped around all the relays. if I pull the hose off at the MAP it'll run and idle fine but I notice the exhaust gets hot at the manifold. I'm stumped... could my fuel pump once it does its initial pump to pressure not come back on after start up? I,ve Also cleaned the O2 sensor. my only guess is the fuel pump. I did check the pressure and was getting around 35 PSI. also I un plug the air idle control valve and nothing changes but have one of those on the way too! ANY HELP?
Also does anyone have the specs for the valve clearance? Thanks!

[doug80638]

if I pull the hose off at the MAP it'll run and idle fine

Then it's not the fuel pump, injector or the ECU. 

My guess would be one of the sensors is sending bad data to the ECU.
I can't find reference to a MAP sensor in the parts description. (could it be an AIT sensor?)
What year is the Rancher?

How does it run with the vacuum line opened and blocked? Any difference?
Have you hooked up a vacuum gauge to the line to see if the reading is steady?
What happens when you leave the vacuum line connected, but pull the electric connector from the sensor?

I know you've said the sensor is new, but generally, when an engine runs better after disconnecting a sensor, the sensor is the culprit.

Is this the same behavior before you started replacing parts?
Throwing money at parts is an expensive gamble. First goal is accurate diagnostic technique.

[Yooper600]

Hey Guys! So its a 2013 600 utv rancher. I cant find a much on it but seems to be or have same parts as the 600 z sport. so the sensors that i can come up with that could be a culprit are the mass air pressure sensor (MAP) the Idle Air control valve which I have not replaced yet but am expecting in the mail this week but I have my doubts this is my problem, nothing changes when i pull the hose's but when i unplug the wires it dies and the light flashes on the dash
This all started when I was looking into a cooling issue. While trying to figure out why water wasnt circulating i was starting it up on and off alot! And thats when it started not wanting to stay idling but was intermittent. after a few revs it would be fine so thats when i put a new fuel filter on and injector! and so on. So with what i could goolge search theres just not much on the U600. I dont have a vacuum tester so im not sure if theres change in the vacuum or not I do Know that If I pull the hose off the map it will sit and idle all day which made me think bad map. but not the issue. when i unplug the map nothing changes only changes when i pull the hose off.   I did pull the pump today it looked good no dirt in the filter was very clean. Im guessing its got to be the pump at this point but im tired of guessing and paying the price.
 

[Yooper600]

Yes this is the same behavior before i started replacing parts. I am certain that I either have a Air issue or a fuel issue but I'm exhausted and frustrated at this point not to mention going broke. I thought for sure my ecu was shot and not sending the proper signal but the wasnt it. so do i order a fuel pump and cross my fingers? how often do these fail? whats the likeliness of my fuel pump being bad?   

[NMKawierider]

Get the service manual and start testing before replacing anything.Almost bet much of the z Force 600s are the same and we do have that manual.

[flash]

If it runs when you press on the throttle, but won’t idle I would check the throttle position sensor.

[doug80638]

OK. Seems like you've eliminated a lot of causes in your testing.

You introduce a vacuum leak when you pull the hose from the sensor. That could indicate an over-rich condition.

If you pull the hose from the 'map' sensor, and block the end to eliminate the leak, will it idle well?

Looking at the parts page on the Alpha-Sports site, I do not see listed either a MAP or an IAC. It lists instead an Intake Air Temp sensor (likely a MAP substitute) and an Air Bypass Valve (a variation on an Idle Air Control valve).

The ABV is what the ECU uses to control idle. You can use a vacuum pump/meter to test its operation.

[ctdls]

The ABV is what the ECU uses to control idle. You can use a vacuum pump/meter to test its operation.

Please explain how you would do this? I'm chasing a related issue & curious.

[doug80638]

The bypass valve is controlled by the ECU. You should be able to measure the change in vacuum as the step motor is adjusted by the ECU to let more or less air bypass the throttle body.  I don't have experience with this particular setup, but typically I would put a T in the vacuum line and hook up the vacuum meter and monitor. If the vacuum drops, more air is being let in, and vice-versa.

What I would look for is if any air is being let through the valve. If the valve is closed, then no air to control the idle is being let through.

For cold starts, the pintal in the valve should be open to allow the ECM to provide a rich mixture and higher idle for cold starting/running. Then the valve should slowly move to restrict the idle air as the engine idle returns to normal. If the valve stays closed at start or when running, then the ECM can't control the idle speed. You can use a hand vacuum pump to check if the valve is closed.

Disconnecting the 'map' sensor vacuum line can introduce additional air to the engine allowing it to idle (and likely run lean, which explains the high exhaust temps witnessed).

I would expect the valve to provide confirmation to the ECM that the step motor has responded to commands, and trigger a code if it didn't, but I don't know enough about this particular arrangement to know for sure.

You can also bench test  step motors by applying voltage to the open/close harness pins, and monitor the results on the sensor pin, but you have to know the pinout for the valve to do that.

[Yooper600]

Hey thanks for all the responses! If I pull the hose off the map and cover it with my finger it stalls the motor. I can definitely. fell suction. I pretty certain its not the tps because it fires and will run for about 30 secs or long then it dies, I can keep it running by pushing the throttle. I guess I'll have to buy a vacuum tester. Keep the help coming guys! Really appreciate the info. Also could my valves be out of adjustment and even so could that be the cause?
Also the map sensor on this machine mounts the side of the air box also under it is another sensor that mounts to the air box and goes through to the inside off the air box which I think is the air temp sensor unplugging the connector from that makes no changes. The only other sensors I have is the O2 and the idle Air control.     

[doug80638]

Can you confirm that your sensors look the ones in this picture? I'm just wanting to make sure we are speaking the same language as I can't find anything labeled MAP.

https://alpha-sports.com/cfmoto/2013/2013%20RANCHER600/23.htm?q=cfmoto-parts

https://alpha-sports.com/cfmoto/2013/2013%20RANCHER600/21.htm?q=cfmoto-parts

[Yooper600]

Number 12 was what I was referencing as a map sensor.

[doug80638]

OK. I see the confusion now.

The listed description is Air Temp Sensor.
Looking further at the part description it is listed as an Air Pressure Sensor which is also inaccurate.

It appears to be a Bosch 261230188 MAP sensor commonly used in lots of automotive applications. Sells for about $30 over the counter. $12 on ebay.

These can be bench tested with a multi-meter and a hand vacuum pump.

But what we really need is a cable that goes from the ECU 3 pin diagnostic plug to an OBD-ii connection so standard scanners can read all the sensors in real time.

[Perry1]

Hey probably a little late but I had the exact same issue. Turns out it was bad gas for me. Lots of particles in the fuel. Pressure washed the inside of the tank. There is a bolt underneath the gas tank to drain. Changed the fuel filter put a bottle of injector cleaner in the new gas incase some got into the injector and she’s good as new.

Hello everyone! I'm new to the forum. I cant seem to find anything on the 600 rancher utv.
So This is a long story but I'll try to make it short. The machine starts and runs for about 30 seconds and dies. I can however keep it going when i push the thorottle. The fuel pump kicks on and sounds good when key is turned on. Ive put in a new fuel filter, a new injector, a new map sensor, and a new ecu. Ive swapped around all the relays. if I pull the hose off at the MAP it'll run and idle fine but I notice the exhaust gets hot at the manifold. I'm stumped... could my fuel pump once it does its initial pump to pressure not come back on after start up? I,ve Also cleaned the O2 sensor. my only guess is the fuel pump. I did check the pressure and was getting around 35 PSI. also I un plug the air idle control valve and nothing changes but have one of those on the way too! ANY HELP?
Also does anyone have the specs for the valve clearance? Thanks!