Hoping someone can point me in the right direction. Was out for a long ride today maybe 80 miles and for the first time ever I noticed my cforce 800 isn't idling very well...but only when it's up to operating temp. Fine when it's cold but after a 20 mins or so of riding when I stop the rpms drop down to 1000 and 1100 sporadically while idling then it stalls. No issue starting again and riding again. Any ideas?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Many lately have been having idle-air control valve issues as they run hot. They can be tested.

Many lately have been having idle-air control valve issues as they run hot. They can be tested.

Thanks man. ive been away for a few days. went to troubleshoot this yesterday and noticed it idles like shit even after cold start. stays between 1300 and 1400rpm but drops down to 900 and a 1000, sputters, sometimes it recovers, other times it stalls out. its almost as if when this happens i hear a little click noise almost like the noise when you connect the battery cables and it arcs a little. hard to explain the noise.

I just washed the air filter waiting for that to dry now so see if it was maybe starved of air, but the filter didnt appear to be overly dirty just the normal black dirty water like every other time i clean it.

this only started after my last ride and fresh tank of gas. i wonder if it was shitty gas? spark plugs need to be changed maybe?(1200 miles on the machine)

any other advice on things to look at here?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Many lately have been having idle-air control valve issues as they run hot. They can be tested.

Thanks man. ive been away for a few days. went to troubleshoot this yesterday and noticed it idles like shit even after cold start. stays between 1300 and 1400rpm but drops down to 900 and a 1000, sputters, sometimes it recovers, other times it stalls out. its almost as if when this happens i hear a little click noise almost like the noise when you connect the battery cables and it arcs a little. hard to explain the noise.

I just washed the air filter waiting for that to dry now so see if it was maybe starved of air, but the filter didnt appear to be overly dirty just the normal black dirty water like every other time i clean it.

this only started after my last ride and fresh tank of gas. i wonder if it was shitty gas? spark plugs need to be changed maybe?(1200 miles on the machine)

any other advice on things to look at here?

Well..odd that it started after the last tank of gas...maybe it got some water or trash. That would collect in the filter reducing pressure...might test the fuel pressure and volume. If it was too low the MIL light would have started flashing but maybe not on yours.

Many lately have been having idle-air control valve issues as they run hot. They can be tested.

Thanks man. ive been away for a few days. went to troubleshoot this yesterday and noticed it idles like shit even after cold start. stays between 1300 and 1400rpm but drops down to 900 and a 1000, sputters, sometimes it recovers, other times it stalls out. its almost as if when this happens i hear a little click noise almost like the noise when you connect the battery cables and it arcs a little. hard to explain the noise.

I just washed the air filter waiting for that to dry now so see if it was maybe starved of air, but the filter didnt appear to be overly dirty just the normal black dirty water like every other time i clean it.

this only started after my last ride and fresh tank of gas. i wonder if it was shitty gas? spark plugs need to be changed maybe?(1200 miles on the machine)

any other advice on things to look at here?

Well..odd that it started after the last tank of gas...maybe it got some water or trash. That would collect in the filter reducing pressure...might test the fuel pressure and volume. If it was too low the MIL light would have started flashing but maybe not on yours.

My thought is definetly shitty gas. Is there anything i can run with my next tank of gas to combat this maybe some sea foam or something? i don really have space, time, or knowledge to drop the tank and drain it etc.

also the fuel filter, is that contained in the black cannister on the side of the atv? almost the size of a beer can with some tubes running to it? i see it there and it seems like that could be the fuel filter inside there?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Many lately have been having idle-air control valve issues as they run hot. They can be tested.

Thanks man. ive been away for a few days. went to troubleshoot this yesterday and noticed it idles like shit even after cold start. stays between 1300 and 1400rpm but drops down to 900 and a 1000, sputters, sometimes it recovers, other times it stalls out. its almost as if when this happens i hear a little click noise almost like the noise when you connect the battery cables and it arcs a little. hard to explain the noise.

I just washed the air filter waiting for that to dry now so see if it was maybe starved of air, but the filter didnt appear to be overly dirty just the normal black dirty water like every other time i clean it.

this only started after my last ride and fresh tank of gas. i wonder if it was shitty gas? spark plugs need to be changed maybe?(1200 miles on the machine)

any other advice on things to look at here?

Well..odd that it started after the last tank of gas...maybe it got some water or trash. That would collect in the filter reducing pressure...might test the fuel pressure and volume. If it was too low the MIL light would have started flashing but maybe not on yours.

My thought is definetly shitty gas. Is there anything i can run with my next tank of gas to combat this maybe some sea foam or something? i don really have space, time, or knowledge to drop the tank and drain it etc.

also the fuel filter, is that contained in the black cannister on the side of the atv? almost the size of a beer can with some tubes running to it? i see it there and it seems like that could be the fuel filter inside there?

I wouldn't know..need to consult your service manual. If water or trash has gotten in the filter it will need replacing though.

Many lately have been having idle-air control valve issues as they run hot. They can be tested.

Thanks man. ive been away for a few days. went to troubleshoot this yesterday and noticed it idles like shit even after cold start. stays between 1300 and 1400rpm but drops down to 900 and a 1000, sputters, sometimes it recovers, other times it stalls out. its almost as if when this happens i hear a little click noise almost like the noise when you connect the battery cables and it arcs a little. hard to explain the noise.

I just washed the air filter waiting for that to dry now so see if it was maybe starved of air, but the filter didnt appear to be overly dirty just the normal black dirty water like every other time i clean it.

this only started after my last ride and fresh tank of gas. i wonder if it was shitty gas? spark plugs need to be changed maybe?(1200 miles on the machine)

any other advice on things to look at here?

Well..odd that it started after the last tank of gas...maybe it got some water or trash. That would collect in the filter reducing pressure...might test the fuel pressure and volume. If it was too low the MIL light would have started flashing but maybe not on yours.

My thought is definetly shitty gas. Is there anything i can run with my next tank of gas to combat this maybe some sea foam or something? i don really have space, time, or knowledge to drop the tank and drain it etc.

also the fuel filter, is that contained in the black cannister on the side of the atv? almost the size of a beer can with some tubes running to it? i see it there and it seems like that could be the fuel filter inside there?

I wouldn't know..need to consult your service manual. If water or trash has gotten in the filter it will need replacing though.

so turns out the clicking noise was the spark plug arcing off the motor. touched the plug boot when it was running and got a bit of a jolt. looks like ill be changing the wire/boot. clearly the culprit. not gas after all.

["VERY CAREFUL"]

Hi Steve, I am pleased to learn that you found the main culprit with hot idle issues.

However, if you want a vast overall improvement to hot/cold start, hot/cold idle, improved acceleration and improved fuel economy consider replacing your stock factory fit NGK spark plugs with an equivalent NGK replacement Iridium spark plug.

I fitted them to my CFMOTO C force 800 X8 Euro 4 spec V twin cylinder, liquid cooled, 4-stroke, SOHC, 8-valve, 800cc engine. It changes the whole running/handling of the machine, most importantly on overrun and throttling off to slow down there is now zero mini or maxi backfires. The stock fit NGK plugs have a large ceramic tip, after analysis I noted that they would turn to a brown colour, even after low miles and cleaning. This indicates overheating/glowing of the plug when engine reaches operating temp. Therefore, historically when I throttled off on overrun and get a slight backfire, the plug running hot and glowing would cause premature backfires as the combustion chamber ignited small residue particles of fuel.

Be "VERY CAREFUL" where you purchase these NGK Iridium plugs from, checkout the splinternet for issues concerning supply of "Fake" NGK Iridium spark plugs before you proceed. If the cost is too good to believe and too low, trust me it will be fake plugs. A guy on Ebay selling stuff from his bedroom, please avoid like the plague or these days Covid 19. A fake plug will destroy your engine, the tip will melt off inside your engine and terminate it.

Go to an exceptionally large Motorbike outlet, one that has a large chain of outlets nationwide, they cannot afford to sell fake goods their business cannot afford the consequences of selling fake goods. They will be dealing with and obtaining their NGK goods from your countries bespoke NGK agent/supplier, you will pay a premium price, but it will worth every penny or cent you spend.

Contact NGK direct in your country for confirmation but, in UK they recommend you leave the spark plug gapped as is from the box. They will also inform you that the plug requires zero cleaning or servicing if it is matched to the injection system and combustion chamber configuration on your bike it will clean itself. Because the tip of the Iridium plug is ridiculously small when compared to the stock plug there is zero after glow on the plug when hot and therefore in my experience zero mini or maxi backfires.

Take care enjoy your ride....Grandmaster Splash & his Furious Drive