And remember that you MUST have to apply Loctit on both the bolt and nut on both primery and secondary CVT before tightning it to its final torque.
If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask or contact me :-)
I actually applied Loctit on absolutely all the nuts and bolts when I changed the engine.some were so loose I used no tools to remove them. Like the drive shaft alen bolts (2 of them) and some of the engine mount to the chassis. Poor quality control/check must I say. And lots of cables and wires just hanging and chaffing against the cylinder head and with eachother. I managed to tie and reroute the cables and wires so that they don't chaff against something else. Am really really sorry for a loooooong reply. But I felt like helping you and others coz there is almost nothing much written og discussed about thsee cforce 550 or x550 ATVs.
Hope you get your ATV fixed. And it's is your dealers fault which they forgotten to put the main big nut on your primery CVT and they should take a responsibility themselves! I will stop here before I start writing another long reply :-)

Dear Sir, i am very very thankful for your long reply, as it has helped me realize the problem i was having, i managed to come to an agreement with the dealer, as they did apologize to me, and stated very clearly that they have never changed a belt on this type of ATV, and that they made the same mistake twice, now, they put a new nut, and a new bolt, applied loctite to both of them, and also to the secondary, and put in a new original bolt!

I hope they torqued the bolts and nuts to the proper torque, as i supplied them with the values to torque it to!

I made about 50 kilometers after the latest service, which was on three days ago, and i hope that all will stay well, they said that they found no damage to the shaft, or the internals of the primary clutch, the atv has restored its original speed, and can go up to 90+ Km/H now.

I will test it some more on the trail on monday and see how it goes.

I am very happy you replied as there really is little information regarding these models

Btw, is your fuel guage accurate?

Mine sometimes says i only have half of a tank, i when i fill it up at the gas station it can only fit around 6-7 liters, and the tank is supposed to be 21 liters.

With kind regards from Croatia,
Bubi

No matter the brand, the fuel gauges are always off. I always top off my tank before heading out or if I pass a gas station. I'm glad to hear you guys found a fix for this problem. This is the very reason we are so active on this forum and when people share info, it helps us all.

Hello again Sir.
So happy to hear you say my information helped you. Am really so glad you came to an agreement with your dealer. It's not always the dealers admit to their faults and agree to re-fix their own faulty work. This shows how serious and honest people they are then. Yes there is absolutely no informations or nothing discussed or mentioned about these ATVs out there. In fact the very helpful info. is found here at this very forum.
YES the fuel gauge is giving me a headache everytime I refuel.
The fuel tank capacity actually is 18.5 liters says the manual on those models not 21 liters as Can-ams :-) :-) I have tested the capacity too on my ATV which is exactly 18.6 actually :-) I realized that when the guage shows empty tank (flashing the whole bar) I refuel the tank and fill only 13 something liters. So the guage shows around 5.4 to 5.8 liters wrong. I am going to send an e-mail to the main distributor here in scandinavia about that and one other issue I incountered  just a couple of days ago. My speedometer started showing 14km/hr faster than the actual ATV speed is actually on. When i  drive 60km/hr the speed indicator shows 74km/hr when am on 70km/hr it shows 84km/hr which doesn't make sense as the ATV has a speed restrictor sett to 72km/hr. When  am actually on 20km/hr it shows 34km/hr. This is what I found of faults so far. I will be contacting the main distributor fiest ting tomorrow morning (monday) :-)
I will try to post a picture before and after engine swapping and try to show you all owners of this cforce 550 ATV what to do to the cables and wires arround the engine to prevent chaffing on the cables and wires against the cylinder head, with eachother or some other things around the engine. Remember there is a lot of vibrations from the engine. Remember also the engine coolant hose from the radiator to the water pump (left side of the engine) must be tied down to the chassis as it just hangs and vibrate against the frame. Just for info.

Here are some pictures showing the before and after engine swapping and rerouting of cables and wires and also a picture to let you guyz know where the speed sensor is located on 191R engines.

Just to report back, all is fine and runs excellent thanks to all of you guys!

But i did notice another new issue, it has to do with the exhaust, it has a tendency to vibrate at certain RPM and produce a really ugly sound, i think i read about it here, but cant find the thread now?

Any advice on that..

Thnx!

Hi there :-) Good to hear your ATV is now fixed :-) The vibration is something that I think all small engines have, but when I changed my engine with a brand new one I noticed that the several of the engine mount bolts were loose, that was the main couse for the massive vibration i got in my older engine. I used loctite on every bolt and screw now. My new engine has almost to non vibrations compared to the older one :-)
So i suggest you check the engine mount bolts and brackets and see if there is any loose bolts or nuts :-)
The other known vibration sound you hear is from the exshaust heat shroud which vibrates and produces that meatal sound. I have that too even after engine replacement. The heat shroud touches both the exshaust pipe arround the mid joint section where you have the springs and it even touches the O2 sensor and make that awefull sound in certain rpm range. In my ATV the sound is present up until 4800rpm and vanishes after 5000rpm. Am thinking of contaction the main distributor of the cfmoto and make my own heat shields without loosing my warranty on both the engine and the ATV in general.

By the way there is I think a russian guy showing this exact problem on youtube (in i think russian language) but you can clearly see our problems beeing shown on that youtube video :-)

Hope it will help you find the problem :-)

Have a great day :-)

Hi, yes the sound is gone after 5000 RPM, and i did notice when i used a wrench to hold the heat shield it didnt make any sounds.. I will try to find the video and see if has a solution to the problem..

Thnx again for helping with the original problem, and also for advice in my new problem

Well, still some old and some new problems

I still cant solve the metall noise problem, i cant seem to find where exactly the noise is coming from, and all of the heat shields and exhaust bolts are tight..

Also, i have a new issue with the speedometer, it is 20-30 Km/h off, showing 90 km/h on the dashboard is around 60km/h in reality, any advice on that?

One more question, i had my bag sitting on the dashboard and i turned the ignition on, and all i could see after lifting the bag was three numbers, i tried pushing the buttons but all i could do was change them from 0 to 9, is that a secret menu or something, could that be the issue with the speed being wrong, i cant quite remeber but i think after that happened the speed was also wrong, or it might just be a coincidence..

Thnx for reading my troubles again and trying to help..

Can't remember off hand how to change the settings but it's in the forum here somewhere. You might have changed them by mistake.

Dear bublb5

Once again am so glad to help you with your issue you mentioned about the off speedometer reading and I know exactly what you have to do to make the speedometer reading right again :-) Am not sure why but it seems that you are experiencing the very same issues as mine :-)
Turn on your ingnition or you can start the engine, then press the two buttons to the right and left just under the display both together (simultaneously) at the same time for about two seconds. Then there should apear three digit number ranging from 000 to 999. That number is the code for your speedsensor ( speed reader or calculator or whatever it is called) as i can notice by now you have the 500HO then the number actually should be 705. If the number you see is different from 705 then use the buttons to re-adgjust the numbers back to 705 then when you are done press both buttons simultaneously for about two seconds or untill the display returns to normal again and start driving to check the reading, you should now have a speedometer reading the correct speed and no worries after that :-)
The computer on your ATV will remember that code and unless and otherwise you change that code the number 705 will remain saved.
Hope it helpes :-)

Mvh
K.

Dear Kaleab, you have done it again Thank you very much, it is all good now!!

What has happened is that i had my bag over the buttons and started the atv, and when i moved the bag i could see the numbers, as i didnt know what it was i set them to 999, and left it like that.. That is why my speed was so wrong..

Now thanks to you it is all great again..

One more thing, if you maybe have a link to that russian video for the exhaust problem i would be very very thankfull as i cant find it and the sound it is making is pretty ugly..

Thnx again!!

Dear Kaleab, you have done it again Thank you very much, it is all good now!!

What has happened is that i had my bag over the buttons and started the atv, and when i moved the bag i could see the numbers, as i didnt know what it was i set them to 999, and left it like that.. That is why my speed was so wrong..

Now thanks to you it is all great again..

One more thing, if you maybe have a link to that russian video for the exhaust problem i would be very very thankfull as i cant find it and the sound it is making is pretty ugly..

Thnx again!!

Good to hear that ;-) :-) 👍

I will try to find the link tonight when I get home :-)

K.