Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the valve adjustment nut on a 19 800ex?
Could not find in manual.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

My 14-17 manual says 12Nm which is 106.20 inch lbs or 8.8 ftlbs. Seems a bit high but..that what it says. I've never use a torque wrench on mine...I just go between snug and tight...lol

Thanks!  That's  what i was doing but my ocd side kicked in. Lol.  My First time adjusting valves. 
What are the valve cover torque specs?  I bought a service manual but for the life of me I can't never find what I'm looking for.  I appreciate the help.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Thanks!  That's  what i was doing but my ocd side kicked in. Lol.  My First time adjusting valves. 
What are the valve cover torque specs?  I bought a service manual but for the life of me I can't never find what I'm looking for.  I appreciate the help.

Just snug...they have O-rings..or rubber seals.. so don't smash them hard. I had to look the others up..so its all in there.

So this maybe another silly question but when your setting your valves, how much drag should I have on the shims?  I know you can force bigger shims under there but is more of if it don't go in without force your good?   Being ocd is a bitty mechanicing, lol.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

So this maybe another silly question but when your setting your valves, how much drag should I have on the shims?  I know you can force bigger shims under there but is more of if it don't go in without force your good?   Being ocd is a bitty mechanicing, lol.

When I was a young guy attending MMI, one of our instructors told us of an old trick about that very subject. He said with any oil on the fingers, applying normal pressure to either a square or slotted top tappet, you will not apply enough to push the valve down but you will produce the correct drag resistance on your feeler gauge. So find TDC of the compression stroke for the cylinder you are working on, loosen both intake lock nuts and back both adjusters off. Slip a little oil on the feeler gauge and your fingers, then slip the gauge between the tappet and valve and screw it down tight with your fingers. Now feel the drag. Remember it. As I recall CFM uses slotted tops so hold it with a screwdriver and tighten the lock nut. Check that drag again. If it feels the same move on to the other one. If not...and sometimes that lock nut pulls some extra play up on the threads, back it off and just give the screwdriver a "hint" one way or the other to get that drag back. After the intakes do the exhausts...then find TDC of the compression stroke on the other cylinder and do it all again. Remember it MUST be dead cold. That means not to have run in at least 6 hours and don't try it between settings. A though comes to mind..holding the adjusters with a screwdriver, you would have to have one of those open-ended or box-ended wrench adapters for your torque wrench to torque that nut. Guess that's why I don't torque them...lol   

So I was adjusting my valves and noticed that when i would get it just right and come back it would be tight.  That's when I realized I have a bit of play ever so slightly.  When I lift up it's perfect and when push down it's to snug.  So would I adjust on the up or down of the slight play?