HI I have a 2014 snyper (zforce) and cannot get the front wheel drive to engage. I can hear the switch on the dash click as well as the solenoid behind the glove box. The instrument cluster does not change and indicates rear wheel drive only. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
Garry

There is a little arm in there that engages the front drive. Pull out the servo and check it. You are not the first one to have this problem. If you do a search, you should find plenty of info on this. Most of the different models use the same servo, so if it's not the same as yours, the info still applies.

The metal gear on the electric 4wd actuator meshes with plastic teeth on the shift fork. If the shift fork binds (or someone tries to activated 4wd while the vehicle is in motion). The plastic teeth teeth will sacrifice.

Pay attention to the orientation of the shift fork if you remove the actuator. if the actuator and shift fork are not " in sync" you will have issues.

do I have to drain the oil from the diff when I remove the actuator ??
thank you
Garry

I would. Not sure if it the level reaches that high. It doesn't take much to fill it back up and some fresh oil is always good. Shove a bit of 1/4 hose on the end of the oil bottle. Makes it easy to get the oil in.

 
I have always pass from 2wd to 4wd when my ZForce run. Even at 50 mph.... I just don't touch the gas pedal at the sime time.

Things are still moving in there. You are taking a risk every time you engage 4 wheel drive while moving.

If your actuator isn't actuating. I have run into a few U 800s that had an issue with the connector on the actuator. They weren't making good contact.  We unplugged and plugged back in.  Probably not your problem but worth a try while your digging around.

Things are still moving in there. You are taking a risk every time you engage 4 wheel drive while moving.

I shift into 4x4 often while moving. I fail to see how it matters as long as your back tires aren't spinning and you aren't cutting your wheel. It should actually be easier to line up splines while there is some motion. while stopped if things aren't lines up it would actually cause more pressure.  I haven't seen the inside of these first hand but this is what I've always done and known and never had an issue.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Things are still moving in there. You are taking a risk every time you engage 4 wheel drive while moving.

I shift into 4x4 often while moving. I fail to see how it matters as long as your back tires aren't spinning and you aren't cutting your wheel. It should actually be easier to line up splines while there is some motion. while stopped if things aren't lines up it would actually cause more pressure.  I haven't seen the inside of these first hand but this is what I've always done and known and never had an issue.

Agreed. I also believe moving under 10mph with the throttle in a neutral state...and not turning is the way to do it. Over 10-12mph may make the difference on tire diameter, even though slight, become enough of a difference is shaft speed between the two to damage it during engagement. 

NMKawierider , so it is ok to go into 4x4 while moving at low speed OFF THE THROTTLE obviously and not turning?  I always come to complete stop before engaging 4x4 but in vehicles we engage / disengage while moving so dont see why we cant in the utv also

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

NMKawierider , so it is ok to go into 4x4 while moving at low speed OFF THE THROTTLE obviously and not turning?  I always come to complete stop before engaging 4x4 but in vehicles we engage / disengage while moving so dont see why we cant in the utv also

Yeah, sure. I always do it going straight and between 2 and 12MPH and making sure not to be applying power or decelerating.. just costing or neutral on the throttle. Then I always bump the throttle on and off just a tad just to make sure the coupler is fully seated before applying real power. You don't want to be going too fast and some makers have a limiter to stop you from doing this too fast as it can cause damage on engagement...because even if you have all tires the same size, the narrower ones generally are slightly taller then the fatter ones ..just by a hair..but that makes the pinion spin faster then the incoming driveline speed...and the fast you go the bigger the difference is. So slamming those two together when there is a big difference is...well pretty hard on the coupler. Besides there is also a safety concern doing it at higher speed as it may do something unexpected.

Gary did you find out what was going on?

Thanks for all your help.I just took it in to get it repaired.I will find out in a day or two what the problem is.I bought it for $5000.00 and the guy who bought it new paid $14500.00 18 months ago,so I thought just let the shop fix it.I got it dirt cheap to begin with.Plus it may still have warrenty

Just found out it was a $25.00 part in the actuator that was damaged.It was a cheap fix and it still may be under warranty.If not ,still a cheap fix.Thanks for all your help people