Had some time Saturday & re clocked the secondary. In my old sled days with this clutch style we would measure the opening & closing preload with a fish scale. I think I will clean up the two halves where they bind, little no sneeze & see if I can measure the preload. Sleds today just use spring compression, no preload.

My results are a little mixed & I may have clocked incorrectly so I will re visit how I clocked the secondary & re test.

I'm just testing on a flat level, only using the seat of the pants dyno for now. We are 1100' 100% stock including wheels & tires. The tach sucks, to much dampening so how it flashes initially is impossible to read. Eventually when it does settle & reports I was seeing around 5500rpm that was B1.

Then we tried B2, I could hear the belt squealing a little when punching the throttle. Then the rpm would settle around 5900.

The next setting from the chart posted on the forum added another 20* or so. The rpm actually dropped from the 5900 & the belt slipping went away.

I'm curious what target rpm you guys have found, I'm trying to get here first & see how it feels. Then we will work on back & upshift.

Our riding elevations may get to 6500'.

I was reading the post about the weak secondary spring, the photo's are gone  tx's photobucket! I'm going to check my CV tech catalog & see if their maybe spec for open & closed pressure.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Belt should not slip in any position so..maybe something is off. In any position you have to rotate the helix to preload the spring and set the ramps on the pads. The starting point for the spring at rest is the zero point and the amount you have to rotate it to set it on the ramps is the degree number you see beside the setting on the chart. The actual amount of resistance in lbft I don't think anyone has or even has a way to measure. I think we try them and see what works the best for our needs. For me I went up to A2 but am now back to B2. Setting the secondary for the load is usually step one. Then fine-tuning the primary is usually the next step. For me that meant going with 22 gram weights for my altitude but I am now thinking about 23 or 24 gram weights as I am tuning it for exploration now and not so much performance. Kinda gave up on the dune climbing...this 800 just doesn't have what it takes. However..oddly..in B2 and in low range, it actually does better on hill climbs then it did in high range and A2. Do..WTH find what works best for you..and find out why that belt is slipping...cause it shouldn't. Double check that the cam plate on the primary IS well seated on the splines. If it isn't, it can let the belt rest on the spindle and not be tight.

   

Good tips Tx's. If I'm successful measuring the preload in ft-lbs & or finding the compression measurements I will post up.

Have you watched the rpm when pulling hills or just straight line acceleration? I need a few different weights for the drive clutch so I can find where this motor likes to be. It comes out of the gate hard & just progressively noses over.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Good tips Tx's. If I'm successful measuring the preload in ft-lbs & or finding the compression measurements I will post up.

Have you watched the rpm when pulling hills or just straight line acceleration? I need a few different weights for the drive clutch so I can find where this motor likes to be. It comes out of the gate hard & just progressively noses over.

At times but mostly I was looking for dune-climbing power which requires the engine to get in and stay in its best RPM range which feels to be between 6200 and about 6800. Ran into one problem with this type of driven clutch though..and one I have not found with other designs. And that is..the more preload I put on it coupled with drive train load, the harder it is for it to back shift. On the flat where the load is light it back shifted ok but put it on a sand hill and load up the drivetrain... and it just wouldn't. You could start off at the base from a dead stop and do better then hit the hill at say 10mph. Back off the preload and the effect on the back shifting is the same but it will shift out too far to be in the power band even after back shifting. Oddly..I never tried it in the last except once after I changed it back to B1 but I did try a hill in low range... and it did quite well. In fact the back shifting was perfect and I could keep it in the high end of the sweet spot of between 6600-7200 and still have the speed necessary to make the crest.

  My next question was going to about the dunes, never been & have zero experience.....thank you.

Your comments about the strange shift when you increased the preload is exactly what I noticed.....that made me question if I was clocking correctly.  I looked for some marking's on the helix to identify the angle, couldn't find anything. What I did notice is that it almost looked like a reverse angle, need to identify that.

I've some work to do, thanks for your comments. The spec sheet suggests peak power is around 6400, sounds like your findings support that. I'm below that before going into elevation.

That belt temp setup from Razorback has peaked my interest other than the price  then converting to Canadian. It would be dual purpose for me, moving it over to the mountain sled in the off season.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

I went with TrailTech's CVT temp setup. With my filters I'm glad I have something monitoring the temp.

http://www.trailtech.net/digital-gauges/tto/panel-mount/temperature/732-es3

I had good luck at B2 and 23g sliders. At the same time I upgraded to 29" tall tires and feel I picked up a slight bit of acceleration. Top speed was reduced. I had noticed on a steep hill climb that in low range it took off RPM high then started to drop rpm as I climbed. I also found later that the gas pedal was not giving me full travel and I only was getting about 7/8ths maybe a little more. Since I corrected that it does seem to be better I didn't get the RPM drop on that same climb, but it is a short climb, so others may still experience that.

I used one similar to this on my ATV with good satisfaction. Switchable C or F degrees. The sensor is a snug fit in a standard rubber grommet from a kit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2m-F-C-Blue-LED-Digital-Car-Water-Temp-Meter-Gauges-Thermometer-DS18B20-Sensor-/271103990253?epid=1431431496&hash=item3f1f0e99ed:g:gPgAAOSwyQtV6~HI&vxp=mtr

Tx's for the clutch air temp idea's, I'm leaning towards the actual belt temperature's with infrared measurement. Real time right now results 

I was able to measure the break away torque in a couple of different clock positions. 20lbs vs 25 using the B2 - A2 clocking. This may be helpful identifying a sacked spring, looks like one of the members went thru that. Compression rate is important as well, it would be nice to have those measurements open & closed.

Helix angle looks to be a straight cut @ 44*. If this were a sled I would be looking for a progressive angle such as a 44-40 to try & keep the thing pulling in the top end rather than laying down as it does now.

Called CVT & struck out, proprietary clutch build for CFMOTO so no soup for you    Contacted CFMOTO Canada & they are going to contact CVtech & see if they can help.

I did some checking hoping to find a selection of driven cams & springs from CVTech or various different components CFMOTO would use with different calibrations. Sadly their is nothing available, I find it somewhat frustrating a company of this size building units for everywhere in the world would kick it out the door one size fits all.

I'm good with the different weighted sliders for the drive clutch, so much more to calibrating the clutches.

Seasons are changing for us, time to start digging the mountain sleds out so I'm abandoning my clutch tuning for this season.

If anyone can point me in direction for driven cams & springs that would be awesome 

There is an updated spring for the secondary. Part number is on this site somewhere. Spring pressure is adjustable on these so offering different ones is not needed. Different cam angle would be nice, but haven't seen any yet. If you had a good idea what you wanted, a machine shop with a rotary on there cnc could do a different helix on one.