[NMKawierider]

Do you guys use anything in the primary or just clean it out? I thought I remembered someone mentioning using graphite on the rollers and plate slides?

I rub the tracks, cam plate roller/slide contact areas and the plate guides down with some graphite after cleaning them up. Be sure none gets on the belt or sheaves though...blow any extra off and wipe-down the sheaves with acetone before installation.

[ulas]

Hi.
I had also thought to clock the clutch
Want advice and tip.
Z-Force 800 2014, 70-75hk, 25g Dr Pulley rolls.
165 feet above, 27 "ITP Black water and 27" ITP Mudlite XL tires
Drive on stone, sand, clay, yes everywhere,  so I understand that there may be two different settings.
Want more low and intermediate, okay with less top speed.
What do you say NMK and you others?
Thank you for a good forum. ULAS / Sweden

[Wheels]

B2 should work for you

[NMKawierider]

Many different settings but I agree with Wheels, just go straight to B2 and leave the rest alone...other then a good cleaning.

[ulas]

Thanks for the tip Wheels and NMK. 
Will be interesting to experience the difference.
Returns when I changed.
/Ulas

[gfmoto]

Woohoo, pleased to report, I finally got a stretch to where I can open it up more.  Got it up to 62 mph, but there was a car in front of me so I couldn't keep it held down.  That's with front and back windows and running 10-12 lbs of tire pressure.  I'm sure if I'd go 20 psi and remove the glass with no on in front of me I could've hit the 68 mark or so. 
Just happy to know it's running like the rest in here and it's "normal" lol

[ulas]

Hi.
Now I've run with the B2 setting, what a difference it was at the start. 
Much aggressive starts, and more fun driving.

But one thought, was back to a sandpit where there is a very steep hill, where I have run up without problems earlier, both 2X and 4X.
Now I had big trouble reaching the top, got back down several times, but finally with 4X and very high speed.
It loses rew!
Should it not switch down faster with B2?
So my thought is, should it be like B2, or could it be something I installed wrong?
I get up at 60mph on the street.
To add that I hurt some cooling flanges on S clutch when I tried to lock it, but it will not affect, I have ordered a new one.

Then I would like to recommend anyone who will unscrew S clutch for the first time, borrow the largest 1 "air impact you can find, saving you hours of work, yet ending with having to borrow the biggest 1" air impact you can find ... 

[REDRIDER]

it should stay in lower gear longer and not bog you down. sounds like something else may be going on. Is the ONLY thing you changed clocking the spring to B2?

[chuddly]

Normal round weights or OD weights?  Have you ever clocked your spring before?  Maybe you are a culprit of the bad spring like I was.

[ulas]

Yes, no changes other than B2, and that was the first time I clocked.
I use Dr.Pulley Sliding roll SR3018 / 8-25g.
Could it be something like slander?
I clean everything with Break Clean, and lubricated the shaft.

[NMKawierider]

I think there is something to this as I have experienced something like it too. On a sand hill on B1 I would make it sometimes but on C1 it would make it all the time with power to spare. When I went to B2 it started having an issue backshifting under load on the sand slope but not on the straight. It's even worse now on C2 but quicker on the level on backshifting.

So it seems...at least on mine..that the more preload I put on the spring and load on the transmission as in going up a steep incline, the harder it is for backshifting to happen. Take away the load on the transmission and it goes like hell. Reduce the preload and loose some backshifting on the flat but increase it on the slope...but reduce it too far and it both sucks.

If I have the forethought of taking my foot partly out of the throttle for a split second while climbing...and I almost never do.., it shifts-back like it should...also if I start at the base of the hill and don't let it shift-out too far, it does way better then taking a run at it...so..there is something about loads and preloads on this clutching system

[REDRIDER]

Hmmmm,  i did notice in low on a very steep hill climb it revved up then while going up the hill the rpms did come down some,  it seemed strange and i only did it once.  Low acts a little funny now anyway i think i had more power in low range on b1 stock tires than i do on b2 23g sliders and 29s, but i have more power in high now than i did stock.

[ulas]

Then I'm not alone about the problem, nice. 
I'm going out on saturday and try your tip to release the accelerator for a split second, and see if it shifts back like it should, and that rpms will not come down some.

I'll test C1 as you say NMK, when my new S clutch comes.
It only divides 4 degrees between B2 and C1, so it may be fine.
B1-16, B2-38, C1-34 degrees.
What would I win if I bought 24 gr rollers?
Would they and B2 be better for me?

Thank you all for your great tips and support. 

[NMKawierider]

Then I'm not alone about the problem, nice. 
I'm going out on saturday and try your tip to release the accelerator for a split second, and see if it shifts back like it should, and that rpms will not come down some.

I'll test C1 as you say NMK, when my new S clutch comes.
It only divides 4 degrees between B2 and C1, so it may be fine.
B1-16, B2-38, C1-34 degrees.
What would I win if I bought 24 gr rollers?
Would they and B2 be better for me?

Thank you all for your great tips and support. 

I personally think the hill-climbing problem is a combination of the two forces converging on this clutch system. Less force from either direction seems to help but only when the load is high enough as in hill climbing and in combination with the forces generated by the primary. But..the 24 gram weights will increase the engine RPM by about 750 which will put it closer to the power band and backing off the secondary to C1 will lighten the force of the spring so...logicly..it may solve at least part of the problem. Try it...and let us know! 

 

[ulas]

Hi.

Now I have ordered Dr.Pulley Sliding roll SR3018 / 8-24g. Just waiting now. 
I assembled my EJK last weekend, and now we have a long weekend in Sweden, and then I will test a new setting that I found on another forum, what do you think of these settings?
The guy has tested with broadband lambda.

"Test these settings. Went with broadband lamb and watched how my went with the baffletech pipe. The basic settings were not directly optimal. With these settings, it is on lambda 1.0 at cruising and 0.9 when the acc is active for load and full throttle of 0.85.
Which should be optimal for performance. Corresponds to 14.7 and 12.5 in the AFR values."