Thinking about possibly  re clocking my clutch on my 17 z800 EX it doesn't feel bad but I would like to see if I can improve the low-end grunt I know it may affect top end a little. My question is what is factory setting and  what setting should I start with any help would be appreciated.its all stock except for uni filter.thank you..

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

The factory setting is B1 with 25 gram rollers. What you go to will depend on extra weight, size tires, elevation and riding style & type. So..tell us a little more

Running stock tire size,passenger cooler with "refreshments" mostly trails usually pretty aggressive till the better half starts yelling at me..lol don't really go looking for deep mud..

Elevation is around 2100

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

With that and the stock tires...at around 2100 feet...I think I would stay with C1 and keep the 25 gram rollers. But..if you ever want some ...well a lot better performance and don't mind a few MPH top end loss, then try B2...and still keep the 25 gram rollers. The sliders are by far better as they work easier and go a little farther either way giving you even more low and top end but I would stay with 24 or 25 gram sliders as well. Actually you might enjoy C1 with 24 gram sliders...a lot..its like half-way to B2 with the extra low and high.

ps...my wife starts yelling the minute I turn the key..can't win! So make it the way you want... then adjust your right foot-usage when she's along....lol

Lol yeah that's the plan..thank you for info..whats your opinion on the wet clutch delete?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Lol yeah that's the plan..thank you for info..whats your opinion on the wet clutch delete?

Some like it.. but some are having troubles with it. Personally because my brother has a wet clutch in his old 660 Grizz with over 7000 miles on the original belt, I tend to think I can live with the extra power it takes...and with my clutch reclocking and sliders, I really can't complain about the power...it runs plenty-good enough for me. You will be amazed when you get yours done too.

I think the wet clutch for this application is great especially if you like to crawl through the woods.  You get virtually no belt slippage.  If you legit race,  that would be the only reason i would consider it. 

OK I think I will try it on c1 and see what it's like..thank you very much for the input ..

Ok so elevation is 1070 nmk. Trail riding, small portions of road, snow, some mud nothing extreme, rocks, woods, mountain type riding. Not overly aggressive. Looking for a lil more top end speed and not lose the bottom end. So maybe just go lighter sliders?

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Ok so elevation is 1070 nmk. Trail riding, small portions of road, snow, some mud nothing extreme, rocks, woods, mountain type riding. Not overly aggressive. Looking for a lil more top end speed and not lose the bottom end. So maybe just go lighter sliders?

Well, maximum speed is achieved when the clutches are at full shiftout and the engine hits the RPM limiter. So, lighten up the primary weights and or increasing the secondary spring preload makes it harder for the clutches to achieve full shift, thus, if it doesn't get full shift out by the time it hits the limiter, you won't make the same speed you did before... but..you can take some top end and give yourself some more power on the low end by doing this to the clutches... just can't go the other way without changing the gear ratio or raising the RPM limiter.

The sliders are supposed to help with low and and top end, the help will be minimal and not very noticeable. You really can't get more low and and top end with just clutching it works kind of the same as gearing in your car. You would need more power from the engine, higher rev limiter. I different width belt will also make changes, wider I think would give you mph.

The sliders are supposed to help with low and and top end, the help will be minimal and not very noticeable. You really can't get more low and and top end with just clutching it works kind of the same as gearing in your car. You would need more power from the engine, higher rev limiter. I different width belt will also make changes, wider I think would give you mph.

That is and isnt a true statement.  You can do both but it takes a complete sheave reprofile.  It means completely resurfacing the face of the sheaves with new angles and the ramp profile/angles where the rollers/slider ride.  So it can be done ...but it cost A LOT of money to have a CNC program written to do it and a machine to cut it.  But your statement is true if you mean with the stock sheaves.  With the stock sheaves you can not really gain on top and bottom end without giving up something.

The sliders are supposed to help with low and and top end, the help will be minimal and not very noticeable. You really can't get more low and and top end with just clutching it works kind of the same as gearing in your car. You would need more power from the engine, higher rev limiter. I different width belt will also make changes, wider I think would give you mph.

That is and isnt a true statement.  You can do both but it takes a complete sheave reprofile.  It means completely resurfacing the face of the sheaves with new angles and the ramp profile/angles where the rollers/slider ride.  So it can be done ...but it cost A LOT of money to have a CNC program written to do it and a machine to cut it.  But your statement is true if you mean with the stock sheaves.  With the stock sheaves you can not really gain on top and bottom end without giving up something.

Yes I mean stock adjustments

Do you guys use anything in the primary or just clean it out? I thought I remembered someone mentioning using graphite on the rollers and plate slides?