[Ricky King]

Hi!

Thanks for a great forum!

Please listen to the knocking / rattling sound in the attached video below.
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Anyone with similar problem?

I'm worried I have to take the Engine out and split it. Only 25 Miles (250km)Thankful for any advice or tips!
 

[NMKawierider]

I am going to say IMO, the way it cranked and the way it sounds it's either rod-related or valve train related so better not start it again. She needs to be investigated physically or pulled down. 25 miles...should still be under warranty.

[Cosmosdan]

That sounds bad. Check the oil filter for metal flakes.

[ctdls]

Ugh, that's a bad sound  it may have sounded louder on the clutch side. Pull the cover & see if it's something going on in that department....trying to be optimistic 

I'm not sure the threshold of oil pressure for a check engine.

Bad sound none the less.

[Ricky King]

Thanks for all replies!

Will check the oil filter, pull the cover and inspect the clutch.

This engine is running with a EFI box and slip-on from R.J.W.C, might this be the cause?  Too less lubrication on the crank or something? This is the second engine getting bad. Previous owner got this brand new engine covered by warranty, but I don´t know if I can claim that. UTV is year 2013.

Will keep you updated!

[Cosmosdan]

If you see fine specks if metal in that filter at least you will know to keep looking or an engine rebuild is needed. Might get lucky and its just a loose clutch plate ect.

[glenlivet]

25 miles would be 40 KM, not 250. Moot point, it's a new baby just off a rebuild, if it's a 2013.
Very early in the life of a rebuild is when things are most likely to show up that are a result of poorly made or incorrect parts, fasteners not properly torqued, lubrication channels not free of obstruction or oil pump not working properly etc etc etc.
If a builder screwed something up that's when it's most likely to take effect.
Who rebuilt the motor? He/she/they should be the ones hearing this.

[ctdls]

This engine is running with a EFI box and slip-on from R.J.W.C, might this be the cause? 

If the box is tuned incorrectly & running lean.........absolutely could the cause.

[PA WOODCHUCK]

Any news on your engine issue?

[rideordie]

Experiencing what I'm experiencing now at 1000 miles. Is a rod bearing gone bad. Wether be lubrication issues or oil pressure sensor failure. Must not either be torqued to spec. Or oil lubrication is not there. Try replacing oil pressure sensor before completely tearing motor apart again. Motor should be under warranty with mileage. I'd be calling a dealer ASAP

Hi!

Thanks for a great forum!

Please listen to the knocking / rattling sound in the attached video below.
Not a valid vimeo URL
Anyone with similar problem?

I'm worried I have to take the Engine out and split it. Only 25 Miles (250km)Thankful for any advice or tips!

[Ricky King]

Hi!
 
I couldn't find something wrong with the clutch or other issues suggested here on the forum, so I decided to pull out the engine for deeper investigation and a rebuild.

When I took the magnetocover off I found a lot of Metal specks/flakes at the bottom of the cover. (See Pic)

So probably some Rod bearing related issue here.

I Will split the blocks later this week and inspect the rods and crankshaft.

[NMKawierider]

Those pricks at photobucket took the third party hosting for all the free accounts away. Us with paid accounts will loose ours too by October of 2018 unless you want to pay for their most expensive service...and I won't. In the mean time I copues what I think is the inage you posted to my Bucket..is it thie one?

[Ricky King]

Thanks!
Actually I uploaded an album with different pictures. But the one you picked is fine.

For future pics, can I upload directly in the forum or is there a better service than photobucket?

[NMKawierider]

Thanks!
Actually I uploaded an album with different pictures. But the one you picked is fine.

For future pics, can I upload directly in the forum or is there a better service than photobucket?

Just upload them as attachments for now. Try to make them as small as possible.

[Ricky King]

Ok, so now I've find the problem.
It was the plain bearing on the big end on cylinder #2. ( see my video)

Any thoughts what's causing this?

Everything was fine with the #1 connecting Rod and bearings.

I don't know if it's worth trying to repair the crankshaft. It's pretty damaged. I'm more into buying a complete new crank assembly. Do you guys know the difference between mark A and B? How can I confirm which crank I should order? Thanks!

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