Just wanted to say, overall a terribly designed machine.   It has its few perks but mainly cons.

Con #1 Why in the holy hell did you not manufacture the Water pump shaft that drives the impeller with a key instead of making it a solid shaft that requires a complete engine break down to replace the shaft (connects internally driven by the oil pump) Water pump failed and sheared the shaft off (made from some low carbide steel easy to break....)

Con #2 several models over several years have serious brake issues.  I have now ordered 4 master cylinders that are all faulty.  I have given up on using your shitty parts when available, I am now in the process of re-engineering the brake system by using a Master cylinder from a dodge Dakota/Chrysler that fits the same bolt match up.  You need to seriously invest in some quality control.  And before you flame me yes the system has been completely bled with a mighty vac bleeder system, New brake fluid is present all the way through the machine yet the brake pedal is about as loose as a 3 dollar hooker.

Con #3 Terrible designed reverse switch that easily comes loose just from the motor running had to redesign a fix so that it would stay in place and not disconnect requiring at least 2 hours of work to remove all the shielding just to get to the stupid thing.  (if your machine wont go any faster then 5 miles a hour, this is your problem)

For those that want to know how the master install from a actual trusted manufacturer go ( also 1/3 the cost of a new master) let me know Ill show you what needed to be done to make this install work, as well as the parts number of the master. 

Engine is almost rebuilt now all just to take it for a ride and watch it break down again do to some other stupid design flaw. 

My suggestion if your going to buy one of these things, just take your cash and light it on fire, cause that is what your doing.

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Maybe that's why they discontinued the 600/625 machines. You really should post this on their site...CFM might actually read it. Here we are just CFM owners...and a few dealer.. with no direct association with CFMoto itself. Still..yes, they all have their issues.

I think this is their official forum..CFMoto Power Syndicate:  https://cfmotousa.com/rider-community/power-syndicate

Yes the reverse switch was a joke. They did update it with a good one. Part number is here somewhere. What year Dakota master did you use. I have not had any brake issues yet, but good to keep in mind. I think the z6 was just to get something out there and they missed the mark in the design. The z5 is it's replacement and seems to be much better. As for the water pump, I have torn down many engines that you had to take a side cover off to get to the shaft or seal. I don't like the design either. It doesn't cost that much more to use good steel for the shaft. Yours is the first I had heard of that had water pump issues.  I'm just hoping to get a few more seasons out of mine until I can afford to replace it.

Sweet first post  The best part is how you established credibility & moved on to the key points. One day I'm sure I will read the riveting comments.

I will include part and numbers as well as pictures once I get it installed tomorrow, had to wait for one to ship my local parts store had one on the shelf but it didn't have a reservoir with it, had to over night it.  The engine is not terrible to rebuild, only slightly frustrating that you need to remove almost everything to get to 1 bolt on the right crank case to separate it and gain access to the oil pump.  Part is cheap enough which is nice, but a lot of labor removing all the old gasket material and prepping for a rebuild.  least while I am this far ill replace the rings and clean the piston.  By all means if these machines work for you great, But I have had no luck with my particular model.  The price i guess was the buying point for me, but that is what happens when you buy machines you are not familiar with.

Ill stick with Honda or Polaris on my next purchase.

part number MC390303 Works like a charm need to do a little re-engineering and replace one of the lines but otherwise full brake pressure again!

Good news. Once you figure it all out, can you post your solution. It will really help the next guy.

Sure I have it all figured out, its a little complicated.  You need to basically swap the rear brake lines to the front with the banjo bolt so the double line config will thread into the back of the new master cylinder, then you will need some adapters to go from 3/8 to 10mm and remove a small 20 inch section of line where it splices at the back with either steel line or you can go with rubber coated line, I just went with steel brake line.  Underneath the drivers side tire you will need to remove the mount where the old master used to fit, There is a flat back plate that you will need to remove off the old master and that will bolt to the above listed master cylinder.  This may take some finesse.  You will have to cut out a section of that plate so the new master will fit into it and remove the old push rod that threads into the brake pedal and profile it back some so that it will seat properly in the master replacement.  Fortunately if done right you will not have to cut the threads at all as its damn near a perfect fit.  You will also have to move the line placement slightly so that they will reach its tight but it does work.  You will need to drop part of the catch pan underneath to get to the adapter where original rear brake lines spliced in and this is where you thread your new steel line into.  Once you have it all back together and have bench bled the new master cylinder its time to bleed the system.  I started in the rear (suggestion removing all 4 tires as the bleeders come off best with a socket wrench (10mm in the back and 8mm in the front)  I did use a vacuum bleeder to get fluid almost all the way there, then used the 2 person method for bleeding the lines have one person compress the brake pedal all the way down, open the bleeder let the air flow and tighten the bleeder back up before telling the person to remove their foot from the brake pedal.  Once you bleed all the way around you should find some more air in the back go ahead and bleed the back again for good measure and your pedal should be rock hard.  Couldn't post a image here however here is a link of the replacement hopefully you can see it on my facebook page.  https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/33117532_10102367406320957_4057681979372470272_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=0206d6db2b5b11530df6d11b803c6bcd&oe=5BBF8068  The banjo bolt with the double flow channel will connect to the rear of the new master cylinder and the front will need a new line set up.  If you are not familiar with this process or have 0 manufacturing experience I would not suggest undertaking this project.

Got the image size down to 100kb and still cant post it.. wowza this forum is restrictive.  The link Included doesnt work, Ill include my facebook page should be open enough where people can see whats going on hopefully 

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10102367406315967&set=a.10101140844909857.1073741825.40610523&type=3&theater

https://www.facebook.com/dustin.vanslambrouck

Thanks, that helps greatly.

Not a problem.  Still in the process of rebuilding the motor right now that is a fun little project.

Hopefully this helps others out who are tired of ordering cf moto master cylinders with no luck for some reasons the seals like to go bad right away, or are bad from the manufacturer.

Let me know if anyone uses this fix like to see how it went for y'all.

On a side note anyone have their o2 sensor blow out and stripped the bung, was debating on re-threading the o2 sensor and welding a nut where it would originally thread in sense alpha sports no longer sells the replacement unit.  Or does anyone have a aftermarket unit that they would recommend?  (occurred a few years ago and even with some serious thread lock its not enough to hold the pressure)

2012 cf moto 625-3 terracross

[2015 Z Force 800 53/Trail EPS]

Not a problem. 
On a side note anyone have their o2 sensor blow out and stripped the bung, was debating on re-threading the o2 sensor and welding a nut where it would originally thread in sense alpha sports no longer sells the replacement unit.  Or does anyone have a aftermarket unit that they would recommend?  (occurred a few years ago and even with some serious thread lock its not enough to hold the pressure)
2012 cf moto 625-3 terracross

I would be tempted to just weld-up the old stripped-out one and just tap-in a new one beside it. They sell just the bungs. Maybe not this exact one but you can get anything these days...even cheap aftermarket O2 sensors on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/M18-X-1-5-Thread-063-50-O2-Oxygen-Sensor-Stepped-Nut-Bung/182388345057?hash=item2a773148e1:g:Ew0AAOSwg89Z3ZiW&vxp=mtr

Thanks for the advice, ill look into it!