Hi DRVMN,
As bizarre as it might sound a battery conditioner can ruin your battery, despite the voltmeter giving you a reading of 12V.
A true test of any 12V battery is to test it under cranking load i.e. are you getting 12V or above when cranking or are the volts dropping significantly during cranking. If the Volts are dropping significantly under cranking your battery is on the way out. Conduct a dry discharge test, observe all the battery cells during this test, if any one cell is bubbling its shot. But, be very careful whilst conducting the dry discharge test, disconnect the battery from the ATV, in fact safer if you remove the battery from the ATV. Make sure you are utilising as safe and good quality dry discharge tester, not the cheap dangerous versions from Amazon or Ebay. Probably safer/cheaper/easier to get a dry discharge test at your local battery shop/supplier.
Never ever keep your battery permanently connected to a battery conditioner, it will overheat, sulphurise, and cause battery cell plate material to short out the plates in a battery cell as it collects in the base of the cell. This will significantly reduce the performance of your battery and give you the kind of start problems you are getting i.e. one minute its OK then another it’s not OK.
Sulphurisation i.e. sell plate material dropping to the base of the cell and shorting out the cell is compounded in the majority of batteries fitted to all ATV’s. This is because the battery dimensions are 75% less than say a 12V battery on the average car. If ATV batteries are kept permanently on charge the whole process of sulphurisation is exacerbated and battery performance reduced to all time low.
Yes of course, keep your battery charged, do not permit it to drop below 12.5volts, but do this once a month. When the volts drop bellow 11V on a regular basis this too can cause sulphurisation and eventually destruction of your battery with the exact symptoms you are getting.
Try to stop diagnosing by substitution of parts in the start circuit that you think are gone, your wallet will quickly empty, only change something that has been tested and checked to the book. Remember that all electrical circuits and their components "MUST" be tested under load, especially the start circuitry and its components.
Should you after testing require to replace the battery consider a "Gel" battery over a lead Acid battery, they are by far better suited to ATV's however, do not over charge them and overheat them. Just one full charge once a month up to 14 volts.
GMSAHFR