[dstreeker]

Has anyone done any primary clutch tuning on the Cvtech primary?
Change the spring or weights?
I do mostly trail riding and rough terrain.
Does anyone know what spring rate comes in the primary on a 1000?

[NMKawierider]

The only spring in the new primary is the return spring. It only makes sure the flyweights return and the sheave completely releases at near idle. As far as I know there isn't any other spring for that which would be nice to be able to adjust the "Stall" or engagement. The flyweights aka rollers can be changed to a different weight for fine tuning but you really should be looking at the secondary clocking. They all come set to B1..even the 950. If history has tough is anything it is that the first step for any performance gains, they all need to be reclocked up at least one or two from there. And that costs nothing...just some wrench-time. There are some guys testing B2 now on FB and should be reporting pretty soon on their findings.

[dstreeker]

I just re-clocked mine to B2 and will need to do some testing to see how it works.
According to my research online the CVTech primary spring controls the rpm at takeoff and also maintains the powerband.
It looks like there is at least 29 different springs that can be used.
This primary clutch is different from the Zforce 800 style, no rollers just plastic shoes with weights pressed into them that can be changed.
 

[NMKawierider]

Good. Well learn something every day. Who has these springs? CVTech?

Oh, I see...right here:

http://3pclutching.com/cvtech-primary-spring/

Do you know what the OE rates are?

[mechanicalmike08]

Any updates on results? I am interested as mine seems like a dog compared to what others are saying about there 1000.

[dstreeker]

Have you re-clocked your secondary clutch yet, that should help!
I'm still breaking in my new ride (at about 7 hr's. right now), but seems much better with secondary adjusted to B2.
I have a replacement primary spring on order to see if I can make my take-off rpm a little lower, running about 2200 rpm when warm and 3000 rpm cold. (might be a little rough on the belt when trail riding I think.)

[dstreeker]

Just an update on clutch info.
I research forever and finally found a new CVTech spring chart.
The new chart has the color spring I found in my 950 sport (gold/org/blue) rated at 250N/600N.
First number represents takeoff RPM, second number dictates the 'powerband' RPM.

[dstreeker]

OOPPPS forgot to list CVTech part# for the stock spring!
#0951-1036

[mechanicalmike08]

Have you re-clocked your secondary clutch yet, that should help!
I'm still breaking in my new ride (at about 7 hr's. right now), but seems much better with secondary adjusted to B2.
I have a replacement primary spring on order to see if I can make my take-off rpm a little lower, running about 2200 rpm when warm and 3000 rpm cold. (might be a little rough on the belt when trail riding I think.)

I have not seen anyone talk about re-clutching a 1000 to the B2 setting yet except for this post which is why i asked if he reviewed it. Some of the members on the Facebook page say they have not done it yet as it didnt help the 1000, it only helped the 800.

[NMKawierider]

Just an update on clutch info.
I research forever and finally found a new CVTech spring chart.
The new chart has the color spring I found in my 950 sport (gold/org/blue) rated at 250N/600N.
First number represents takeoff RPM, second number dictates the 'powerband' RPM.

According the CVTech, the rates are measured as others do theirs at specific compression. Weather it be in lbs or Nm, the first number is at 50mm compression and the second is at 32mm. So if you want to decrease the initial resistance so the belt stays engaged longer on the way down...or engages at a lower RPM, I would think you would want one with a lower first number which would offer less resististance to the flyweights. And lets say you want to keep the upper end the same so...per their spring chart, you would want their #951-1014 which is 200/600 over the OE...which isn't on their chart of 250/600. That's 50 lbs or Newton meters less resistance. Seems like a lot..hopefully it's not too much otherwise it won't disengage. But it is their next strep down.

[dstreeker]

here is a chart I found!
https://peakboys.ca/products/cvtech-trailbloc-drive-pulley-springs?variant=4659605700638

[NMKawierider]

Here's another spring chart with the rates:

[mechanicalmike08]

Have you re-clocked your secondary clutch yet, that should help!
I'm still breaking in my new ride (at about 7 hr's. right now), but seems much better with secondary adjusted to B2.
I have a replacement primary spring on order to see if I can make my take-off rpm a little lower, running about 2200 rpm when warm and 3000 rpm cold. (might be a little rough on the belt when trail riding I think.)

Im at about 12 hours, just changed all the fluids coolant and everything. You say seems much better, what is better?

[dstreeker]

yes better!
I tuned on my clutch even more today, I changed the spring on the primary clutch from stock(250/600N   gold/org/blue) to a (120/600N   gold/blue/yellow) in order to get the takeoff RPM down from about 2200 (factory).
It drop the takeoff rpm borderline too much and also seemed like my mid range RPM was higher. I then added a penny to each slider weight, that made a great improvement on the midrange RPM.(lowered).
I didn't like the takeoff RPM so low (1400) because it seemed tougher changing gears, so I made a .070" shim and added it behind the new spring, this seemed to bring the takeoff RPM to about 1800, perfect so far.
I will need to run some more tests but so far very smooth takeoff and seems like lots more torque when picking up speed.
Stay tuned for the next adventure!

[NMKawierider]

yes better!
I tuned on my clutch even more today, I changed the spring on the primary clutch from stock(250/600N   gold/org/blue) to a (120/600N   gold/blue/yellow) in order to get the takeoff RPM down from about 2200 (factory).
It drop the takeoff rpm borderline too much and also seemed like my mid range RPM was higher. I then added a penny to each slider weight, that made a great improvement on the midrange RPM.(lowered).
I didn't like the takeoff RPM so low (1400) because it seemed tougher changing gears, so I made a .070" shim and added it behind the new spring, this seemed to bring the takeoff RPM to about 1800, perfect so far.
I will need to run some more tests but so far very smooth takeoff and seems like lots more torque when picking up speed.
Stay tuned for the next adventure!

Think I would have gone with the 1014-200/600 instead and bypassed all the rest.