[Shoon]

Recently picked up a 2023 Zforce 950 HO EX. Just hit my first service interval (10.8 engine hours / 312KM)

Performed my first service. Drained and refilled both diffs, oil + filter, and transmission. Everything looks normal except for there was some junk on the transmission drain plug magnet. Is this normal leftover manufacturing junk? Or should I be concerned?

Also the service manual recommends valve lash check / adjustment. But my dealer says not needed until 800km+. Has anyone done the valve lash at the first service interval and was any adjustment needed?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[NMKawierider]

That's bigger stuff then I normally see. Usually its not so...shaved-looking particles. Keep a watch on it. Do another change on it in a few hundred miles and see how she is.  And regardless of what your dealer says, valve lash should always be at least checked within the first 300 miles.. so yes, check them. Set them all mid range. You will fine some tight...some loose...and one or two just right. Make them all correct. Then check them again at around 1000 miles. Mine has just over 2100 miles and I've check them 4 times. Had to adjust them the first and third time.   

[big_john]

Flippin OUCH....

I just did my 200 mile/20 hour service on my new CForce 1000 and none of my magnets looked anything like that.  Sure, they were covered in the iron sludge that everyone is accustomed to seeing, but not big pieces like that.

Darn good thing you serviced and dumped that junk.  Good on ya.

[Shoon]

I wanted to post a follow up to this. (2200KM on machine now, didn't grenade)
Noise got worse. Sounded like a loose chain clammering around. Fluid changes kept coming out black, but was not burnt.

Finally brought it in for warranty. The dealer replaced The driven bevel gear, driven bevel gear assy, and front output shaft.
Had issues the day I went to pick it up. One of the ignition coils died and they flooded the crank case with gas. So I am dealing with that before I take it out for a test drive. (Coils are not under warranty)

Has anyone else had any issues similar to this? What would even cause that to happen??

[NMKawierider]

Usually one thinks of a miss-alignment..but usually they are loose..and don't take the center-tops off the teeth like that. From the wear pattern that shows some issue way deep..and on the bottom.. maybe...maybe they were set too tight. I also am reminded of a F-up a few years back when some cam chains didn't mesh with some cam sprockets got through the assembly line. Maybe a batch of these bevel gears didn't mate properly. We may never know for sure. 

[Grandmaster Splash]

Hi Shoon,
Ok two questions here so let’s deal with the coil failure first: -
1.   First part of this question more than likely that someone else has had a coli failure. The coils are a greater risk of failure if the machine is used extensively in mud and water, in large amounts. On the other end of the spectrum coils are less likely to fail if the machine is not put through deep water and deep mud bogs.
2.   The main causes of coil failure are as follows: -
a.   The above drive uses
b.   Overheating, a coil can overheat if it is used constantly in very hot conditions, the material bonding the coil together inside the coil melts and it eventually fails. On older coil ignition systems with contact breaker points leaving the ignition on will cause the coil to overheat and fail.
c.   On modern contactless ignition systems, the resign used to manufacture the coil will crack in extreme cold conditions. This resign can be seen on the top of the coil, when it cracks water/moisture will enter the crack and the coil will eventually fail. However, cracking of the resin is more likely through aging, this should not be case for your machine though.
Finally unlikely that aging has caused your coil failure more than likely drive issues in first paragraph, that the machine was subject too from its first owner.
I am more concerned with the gas that flooded the crankcase, I note you say “THEY” flooded the crankcase I guess you mean the dealer. If this is case, I would question their skill and experience level. To crank an engine such that they flooded the crankcase means they must have done an inordinate amount of non-start cranking and dumped a good 15 to 20% of your fuel tank in the crankcase. I cannot use the expletives here to describe their level of zero competence. In short if any motor does not start, first rule is to stop and determine “WHY” it does not start. Non start cranking until they flood the crankcase with gas is the skill level of an incompetent buffoon or should I say baboon! 
Of greater concern is the amount of time they were cranking for with gas in the crankcase. Gas will dilute the oil and severely reduce the ability of the engine oil to perform its job of lubricating the motor. In short, this form of incompetence places accelerated wear on every component inside your motor and reduces the life of the engine. If you ask them, they will immediately go into defence mode and state it was just a few non start cranks so it should be OK. A ridiculous defence answer if they flooded the crankcase with gas, as they were clearly cranking for some time and causing rapid increased were to your motor.

Second part to your question i.e. the transmission the driven bevel gear, driven bevel gear assy, and front output shaft.
1.   There are again a number of reasons why this failed: -
a.   Let’s start at manufacture, a simple case of poor assembly, wrong shims or wrong backlash free play settings between the gears. If this was the case then it is a simple matter of time before it fails, in your case a few 1,000 KM
b.   Let’s assume all the above was OK and our good friends in China did a marvellous job of building the bike to its blueprint specs.
c.   We now return to the original owner before you, this is where it gets difficult because I have no idea how long a piece of string is: -
i.   Did he drive the bike with cotton buds under his feet.
ii.   Did he service the bike and change all the necessary filters fluids and make all the necessary checks and adjustments to the letter of the law in CFMOTO manual.
iii.   Or the worst-case scenario did he drive like a bat of hell, in every mud bog in Canada and not spend a single cent on it for maintenance or service.
Looking at your images of the crank/tranie case drain plug, driven bevel gear, driven bevel gear assy, and front output shaft I think I can safely state that it looks as though it has received little care and attention before you became the proud owner.
My advice: -
The Seller Take all your evidence coil or coils tranie components and make a visit to the person you bought it from. Sate that it is clear evidence of use and abuse and poor or zero servicing. In the UK we can use a breach of contract rule and claim monies back. Only if they stated otherwise in the Advert for sale i.e. well serviced, well maintained, service records provided, never raced or rallied. 
The Dealer Go back to the dealer, explain your concern quoting what I have stated above. Not sure of the laws in Canada, but over here in UK this is gross negligence through lack of competence and a definitive breach of contract. They have severely reduced the life of your motor, the minimum they owe you is a new motor, do not accept a motor rebuild! Because of their negligence you motor is effectively “SCRAP” or “JUNK”. Oh and finally avoid returning to this dealer like the plague.

I watch “Judge Judy” quite a lot over here in the UK, OK I know she’s American and resides in the big Apple. My point being whilst I am not familiar with all the laws of “Contract” in Canada I think you are on solid ground to make a claim for breach of contract as I cannot see the main foundation of contract law being all that different in Canada.
Take care……Have fun…………Grandmaster Splash and Furious Ride.

[Shoon]

Many thanks for the detailed responses. To provide more clarity-
I have owned this machine since new and have followed all service intervals by the book. The first pictures are the very first service at the recommended interval. I did additional subsequent services to monitor the issues well in advance of the recommended intervals. I am very much on top of the maintenance.

In terms of how the machine is driven, I most definitely drive the machine through some challenging terrain. However not wide open throttle spinning tire abuse. My speed is typically 30Km/hr or crawling when maneuvering obstacles. It spends most it's life in low range. It gets worked, but I wouldn't say abused.

I was uncertain if the damaged bevel gears were somehow caused by something that I did unintentionally, but those gears are always mated/meshed. Which made me wonder about backlash and if they were preloaded / shimmed correctly. Perhaps it was just a manufacturing flaw as stated. Hopefully no more issues now. I have some concerns because the invoice does not show any shims purchased to set backlash.. so either the bevel gear assembly comes preloaded / shimmed or they just slapped everything back together as is and called it good.

The coil failure - I have driven the machine through mud but typically not deep water and the machine always gets washed after before storage. I agree, and it makes total sense how moisture would cause it to fail prematurely. During the winter the machine normally sits in a heated garage on a trickle charger - this was my window for maintenance to get the transmission sorted under warranty. It took 3 months to get the machine back so it sat in extreme cold storage conditions in the dealers yard.(-40C ) I am attributing the failure to the cold combined with possibly weakening coils- it was -20C when the dealer started the machine in their storage compound.

I absolutely HATE having other people service my equipment because I know that they will not have the same amount of care and detail put into the work. The crankcase was not physically flooded or overflowing with gas, but the smell on the dipstick smells like 100% gas to me. When I went to load the machine on my trailer with the winch they suggested that I just start it and drive it on, I did mention my concern about fuel washing the cyclinder and they didn't have a response. With the machine warmed up both coils are firing now. I will still be replacing both coils and wires now.

I take this machine into some pretty remote places solo, so it's reliability is paramount to me.

Edit:
I was very disheartened about the fuel smell in the oil. And I am sure this added significant wear and tear to cylinder #1. To what degree I am uncertain. If my machine starts to burn oil (it never did before) then I know I have a problem and will be taking it back to the dealer for warranty.

[Grandmaster Splash]

Hi Shoon,
Thanks for the clarity, it all makes a bit more sense now.

I agree that the driven bevel gear, driven bevel gear assy, and front output shaft failed because of potential initial suspect factory set-up, now that you have confirmed you have had it form new, driven it sensibly and serviced it well.

You are right to be concerned about no backlash adjustment shims on the invoice, if they followed the procedure in the manual correctly, they may/should have used different shims to set-up the backlash adjustment correctly. I attach FYI the instruction from CFMOTO manual on how to set/check backlash. You can still do this with everything assembled to get a rough idea where you are. What you cannot do is to use engineers blue to check tooth contact i.e. hitting the centre off the tooth as shown in the attachment instructions.

Failing that i.e. the above, armed now with the information ask the dealer to walk you through the procedure they followed/adhered to set/check backlash.

However regular oil changes and the correct engine oil use is a must with these machines especially in the extreme climate that you reside in. I use only Fuchs Silkolene Quad ATV 10W-40 Semi Synthetic 4T engine oil. I use bespoke Fuchs Silkolene transmission/axle oils for the front and rear axles. I ignore service intervals for time and mileage and change engine and axle oils every year along with filters, running 12 X8's I cannot afford to take chances. Fuchs Silkolene oils are the most expensive in the marketplace, but worth every penny in the long run because my machines are not often off the road and immobilised.

As for the coils, yes, I agree leaving the machine out in -40 would not be good the resin on top of the coil assembly, it will crack, however, pressure water cleaning after a ride is not good it will force water into the coils. I never pressure wash any machines, too much damage to all electrical circuits. I may pressure wash the wheel arches if there is loads of thick mud, the rest is done with non-pressure water but never in sensitive areas of all electrical systems.


Finally you have put my mind at a little rest by confirming that they did not fill the crankcase with gas, however, if you are anything like concerned I would suggest you get an engine analysis form a lubrication specialist, it will confirm the percentage of everything in the oil, all metals, metal compounds, fuels and any other suspect materials that should not be there. Again, this will be an expensive analysis, but it will be your independent evidence to prove rightly or wrongly the percentage of gas they dumped in your crankcase.     

Have fun……take care…..Grandmaster Flash & His Furious Ride