[NMKawierider]

The CFM parts guy needs to stick with something he knows...maybe parts numbers. Well unless it's connection with the ECM has something to do with the display, it can only be either the sending unit, the cluster or a bad ground off the cluster..but that would effect other things too so...The thermoswitch is separate and apparently working fine cause the fan is doing what it should. More CFM junk parts...sorry..did I say that. Just found I blew a front CFM shock just trail riding yesterday so I guess I have a bit of an attitude.

NMK I ran my engine for over 20 minutes revving it occasionally while testing for leaks on my oil sensor and the engine fan finally kicked on. The grounding wire didnt revile anything as the gauge staayed on one bar. Temperature here was in the high 30s that evening. You think that's a reasonable time for the fan to kick in or too long? What I'm getting at is it possible my thermostat is stuck open? One other thing is the hose coming off the thermostat housing the intake side of the coolant path into the engine or the exit back to the radiator? That hose warmed up gradually. Thanks!

Well, I know this- the thermostat has a small hole to allow a little flow for movement in the pump and for air to exit and..it starts to open somewhere in the 185+ range..the book will tell exactly...and the fan comes on somewhere around 210 which is ...normally the upper end of three bars-to 4 bars, then cools it down to the mid-190s...say 197 which is the low end of 3 bars then it shuts off. That's all controlled by the thermoswitch on the radiator. For this to happen on one bar showing says yes, there is something wrong with either the gauge...or the engine coolant temp sensor..or some poor connection between the two. You replaced that sensor before and it worked...for a while. So I might be tempted to replace it again.

That’s what I’m thinking, I’m gonna test the new sensor on the bench to check the resistance at various temperatures, I test the old one last evening and the resistance readings were way too low. Thanks!

CFM has a bad reputation on electrical parts..there have been people that went through three or more thermoswitch until they got one that worked for any length of time. The others, like me are still on the original switch...go figure.

yeah go figure, so I tested the new switch on the bench and the resistance numbers were almost double the specs. At 50C / 122F manual says 152 +/- 16 (my switch was 344), 80C / 176F @ 52 +/-4. (mine 122), 100C / 212F @ 27 +/-3 (mine 49). Seems my new sensor is bad correct?

Unless they are using some other scale..or there is am issue with the setting on your meter, then yes, I would say that one has a problem too.

[Davydo]

The CFM parts guy needs to stick with something he knows...maybe parts numbers. Well unless it's connection with the ECM has something to do with the display, it can only be either the sending unit, the cluster or a bad ground off the cluster..but that would effect other things too so...The thermoswitch is separate and apparently working fine cause the fan is doing what it should. More CFM junk parts...sorry..did I say that. Just found I blew a front CFM shock just trail riding yesterday so I guess I have a bit of an attitude.

NMK I ran my engine for over 20 minutes revving it occasionally while testing for leaks on my oil sensor and the engine fan finally kicked on. The grounding wire didnt revile anything as the gauge staayed on one bar. Temperature here was in the high 30s that evening. You think that's a reasonable time for the fan to kick in or too long? What I'm getting at is it possible my thermostat is stuck open? One other thing is the hose coming off the thermostat housing the intake side of the coolant path into the engine or the exit back to the radiator? That hose warmed up gradually. Thanks!

Well, I know this- the thermostat has a small hole to allow a little flow for movement in the pump and for air to exit and..it starts to open somewhere in the 185+ range..the book will tell exactly...and the fan comes on somewhere around 210 which is ...normally the upper end of three bars-to 4 bars, then cools it down to the mid-190s...say 197 which is the low end of 3 bars then it shuts off. That's all controlled by the thermoswitch on the radiator. For this to happen on one bar showing says yes, there is something wrong with either the gauge...or the engine coolant temp sensor..or some poor connection between the two. You replaced that sensor before and it worked...for a while. So I might be tempted to replace it again.

That’s what I’m thinking, I’m gonna test the new sensor on the bench to check the resistance at various temperatures, I test the old one last evening and the resistance readings were way too low. Thanks!

CFM has a bad reputation on electrical parts..there have been people that went through three or more thermoswitch until they got one that worked for any length of time. The others, like me are still on the original switch...go figure.

yeah go figure, so I tested the new switch on the bench and the resistance numbers were almost double the specs. At 50C / 122F manual says 152 +/- 16 (my switch was 344), 80C / 176F @ 52 +/-4. (mine 122), 100C / 212F @ 27 +/-3 (mine 49). Seems my new sensor is bad correct?

Unless they are using some other scale..or there is am issue with the setting on your meter, then yes, I would say that one has a problem too.

I got a new temperature switch under parts warranty no questions asked, installed and ran until the fan kicked In, my temperature gauge stayed on one bar. Surely not another defective part??  I wonder if there is corrosion on the connector contact Pin B ?  It's such a small pin and insert it's hard to remove any built up corrosion. I may just install a separate temperature guage that installs in line of the radiator return hose.

[NMKawierider]

The CFM parts guy needs to stick with something he knows...maybe parts numbers. Well unless it's connection with the ECM has something to do with the display, it can only be either the sending unit, the cluster or a bad ground off the cluster..but that would effect other things too so...The thermoswitch is separate and apparently working fine cause the fan is doing what it should. More CFM junk parts...sorry..did I say that. Just found I blew a front CFM shock just trail riding yesterday so I guess I have a bit of an attitude.

NMK I ran my engine for over 20 minutes revving it occasionally while testing for leaks on my oil sensor and the engine fan finally kicked on. The grounding wire didnt revile anything as the gauge staayed on one bar. Temperature here was in the high 30s that evening. You think that's a reasonable time for the fan to kick in or too long? What I'm getting at is it possible my thermostat is stuck open? One other thing is the hose coming off the thermostat housing the intake side of the coolant path into the engine or the exit back to the radiator? That hose warmed up gradually. Thanks!

Well, I know this- the thermostat has a small hole to allow a little flow for movement in the pump and for air to exit and..it starts to open somewhere in the 185+ range..the book will tell exactly...and the fan comes on somewhere around 210 which is ...normally the upper end of three bars-to 4 bars, then cools it down to the mid-190s...say 197 which is the low end of 3 bars then it shuts off. That's all controlled by the thermoswitch on the radiator. For this to happen on one bar showing says yes, there is something wrong with either the gauge...or the engine coolant temp sensor..or some poor connection between the two. You replaced that sensor before and it worked...for a while. So I might be tempted to replace it again.

That’s what I’m thinking, I’m gonna test the new sensor on the bench to check the resistance at various temperatures, I test the old one last evening and the resistance readings were way too low. Thanks!

CFM has a bad reputation on electrical parts..there have been people that went through three or more thermoswitch until they got one that worked for any length of time. The others, like me are still on the original switch...go figure.

yeah go figure, so I tested the new switch on the bench and the resistance numbers were almost double the specs. At 50C / 122F manual says 152 +/- 16 (my switch was 344), 80C / 176F @ 52 +/-4. (mine 122), 100C / 212F @ 27 +/-3 (mine 49). Seems my new sensor is bad correct?

Unless they are using some other scale..or there is am issue with the setting on your meter, then yes, I would say that one has a problem too.

I got a new temperature switch under parts warranty no questions asked, installed and ran until the fan kicked In, my temperature gauge stayed on one bar. Surely not another defective part??  I wonder if there is corrosion on the connector contact Pin B ?  It's such a small pin and insert it's hard to remove any built up corrosion. I may just install a separate temperature guage that installs in line of the radiator return hose.

Not on the return hose. Need it where the temperature is at its highest, not lowest. Anywhere on the hose going to the radiator. Before the thermostat would be great but probably not possible.

[Skogsvarelse]

My 520/500s (same engine as the z500) temperature gauge stays on 1 bar most of the time, maybe 2 if i run slow or the engine is under load for a long time and then stop it can co to 2-3 bars and the fan kicks in somewhere between 2-3 bars. Don't think it's something wrong when it does. I do think it's a bit wied scale, wish normal operating temperature was 2-3 bars. Then you could se the egnine warm upp. Other cf motos that don't have the "new" 400 or 50 engine seems to have a different scale on the temperautre gauge.

[Davydo]

My 520/500s (same engine as the z500) temperature gauge stays on 1 bar most of the time, maybe 2 if i run slow or the engine is under load for a long time and then stop it can co to 2-3 bars and the fan kicks in somewhere between 2-3 bars. Don't think it's something wrong when it does. I do think it's a bit wied scale, wish normal operating temperature was 2-3 bars. Then you could se the egnine warm upp. Other cf motos that don't have the "new" 400 or 50 engine seems to have a different scale on the temperautre gauge.

Mine worked fine when I first bought the z500 this past February, had 120 miles on it,  but started giving me trouble a few hundred miles later, if you read previous posts the gauge would work then wouldn't after cleanin terminals on the switch and harness connector. I replaced it the first time and everything worked for one ride then the next ride the gauge was back to on bar again. Cfm dealer replaced under their parts warranty and this most recent switch is either defective or I've got problems elsewhere.

[Davydo]

The CFM parts guy needs to stick with something he knows...maybe parts numbers. Well unless it's connection with the ECM has something to do with the display, it can only be either the sending unit, the cluster or a bad ground off the cluster..but that would effect other things too so...The thermoswitch is separate and apparently working fine cause the fan is doing what it should. More CFM junk parts...sorry..did I say that. Just found I blew a front CFM shock just trail riding yesterday so I guess I have a bit of an attitude.

NMK I ran my engine for over 20 minutes revving it occasionally while testing for leaks on my oil sensor and the engine fan finally kicked on. The grounding wire didnt revile anything as the gauge staayed on one bar. Temperature here was in the high 30s that evening. You think that's a reasonable time for the fan to kick in or too long? What I'm getting at is it possible my thermostat is stuck open? One other thing is the hose coming off the thermostat housing the intake side of the coolant path into the engine or the exit back to the radiator? That hose warmed up gradually. Thanks!

Well, I know this- the thermostat has a small hole to allow a little flow for movement in the pump and for air to exit and..it starts to open somewhere in the 185+ range..the book will tell exactly...and the fan comes on somewhere around 210 which is ...normally the upper end of three bars-to 4 bars, then cools it down to the mid-190s...say 197 which is the low end of 3 bars then it shuts off. That's all controlled by the thermoswitch on the radiator. For this to happen on one bar showing says yes, there is something wrong with either the gauge...or the engine coolant temp sensor..or some poor connection between the two. You replaced that sensor before and it worked...for a while. So I might be tempted to replace it again.

That’s what I’m thinking, I’m gonna test the new sensor on the bench to check the resistance at various temperatures, I test the old one last evening and the resistance readings were way too low. Thanks!

CFM has a bad reputation on electrical parts..there have been people that went through three or more thermoswitch until they got one that worked for any length of time. The others, like me are still on the original switch...go figure.

yeah go figure, so I tested the new switch on the bench and the resistance numbers were almost double the specs. At 50C / 122F manual says 152 +/- 16 (my switch was 344), 80C / 176F @ 52 +/-4. (mine 122), 100C / 212F @ 27 +/-3 (mine 49). Seems my new sensor is bad correct?

Unless they are using some other scale..or there is am issue with the setting on your meter, then yes, I would say that one has a problem too.

I got a new temperature switch under parts warranty no questions asked, installed and ran until the fan kicked In, my temperature gauge stayed on one bar. Surely not another defective part??  I wonder if there is corrosion on the connector contact Pin B ?  It's such a small pin and insert it's hard to remove any built up corrosion. I may just install a separate temperature guage that installs in line of the radiator return hose.

Not on the return hose. Need it where the temperature is at its highest, not lowest. Anywhere on the hose going to the radiator. Before the thermostat would be great but probably not possible.

Thanks NMK, ya know its weird to me that on the original switch all I did was clean terminals and it worked for a ride or two, the first replacement worked fine the first ride then quit the second ride out, and now the third one is either defective or there's something going in the harness connection at the switch or the green wire is broken somewhere  between the switch and the gauge cluster?  Driving me nuts!

[NMKawierider]

The CFM parts guy needs to stick with something he knows...maybe parts numbers. Well unless it's connection with the ECM has something to do with the display, it can only be either the sending unit, the cluster or a bad ground off the cluster..but that would effect other things too so...The thermoswitch is separate and apparently working fine cause the fan is doing what it should. More CFM junk parts...sorry..did I say that. Just found I blew a front CFM shock just trail riding yesterday so I guess I have a bit of an attitude.

NMK I ran my engine for over 20 minutes revving it occasionally while testing for leaks on my oil sensor and the engine fan finally kicked on. The grounding wire didnt revile anything as the gauge staayed on one bar. Temperature here was in the high 30s that evening. You think that's a reasonable time for the fan to kick in or too long? What I'm getting at is it possible my thermostat is stuck open? One other thing is the hose coming off the thermostat housing the intake side of the coolant path into the engine or the exit back to the radiator? That hose warmed up gradually. Thanks!

Well, I know this- the thermostat has a small hole to allow a little flow for movement in the pump and for air to exit and..it starts to open somewhere in the 185+ range..the book will tell exactly...and the fan comes on somewhere around 210 which is ...normally the upper end of three bars-to 4 bars, then cools it down to the mid-190s...say 197 which is the low end of 3 bars then it shuts off. That's all controlled by the thermoswitch on the radiator. For this to happen on one bar showing says yes, there is something wrong with either the gauge...or the engine coolant temp sensor..or some poor connection between the two. You replaced that sensor before and it worked...for a while. So I might be tempted to replace it again.

That’s what I’m thinking, I’m gonna test the new sensor on the bench to check the resistance at various temperatures, I test the old one last evening and the resistance readings were way too low. Thanks!

CFM has a bad reputation on electrical parts..there have been people that went through three or more thermoswitch until they got one that worked for any length of time. The others, like me are still on the original switch...go figure.

yeah go figure, so I tested the new switch on the bench and the resistance numbers were almost double the specs. At 50C / 122F manual says 152 +/- 16 (my switch was 344), 80C / 176F @ 52 +/-4. (mine 122), 100C / 212F @ 27 +/-3 (mine 49). Seems my new sensor is bad correct?

Unless they are using some other scale..or there is am issue with the setting on your meter, then yes, I would say that one has a problem too.

I got a new temperature switch under parts warranty no questions asked, installed and ran until the fan kicked In, my temperature gauge stayed on one bar. Surely not another defective part??  I wonder if there is corrosion on the connector contact Pin B ?  It's such a small pin and insert it's hard to remove any built up corrosion. I may just install a separate temperature guage that installs in line of the radiator return hose.

Not on the return hose. Need it where the temperature is at its highest, not lowest. Anywhere on the hose going to the radiator. Before the thermostat would be great but probably not possible.

Thanks NMK, ya know its weird to me that on the original switch all I did was clean terminals and it worked for a ride or two, the first replacement worked fine the first ride then quit the second ride out, and now the third one is either defective or there's something going in the harness connection at the switch or the green wire is broken somewhere  between the switch and the gauge cluster?  Driving me nuts!

After this many sensors it has to be either a connection or the cluster..IMO.

[Davydo]

The CFM parts guy needs to stick with something he knows...maybe parts numbers. Well unless it's connection with the ECM has something to do with the display, it can only be either the sending unit, the cluster or a bad ground off the cluster..but that would effect other things too so...The thermoswitch is separate and apparently working fine cause the fan is doing what it should. More CFM junk parts...sorry..did I say that. Just found I blew a front CFM shock just trail riding yesterday so I guess I have a bit of an attitude.

NMK I ran my engine for over 20 minutes revving it occasionally while testing for leaks on my oil sensor and the engine fan finally kicked on. The grounding wire didnt revile anything as the gauge staayed on one bar. Temperature here was in the high 30s that evening. You think that's a reasonable time for the fan to kick in or too long? What I'm getting at is it possible my thermostat is stuck open? One other thing is the hose coming off the thermostat housing the intake side of the coolant path into the engine or the exit back to the radiator? That hose warmed up gradually. Thanks!

Well, I know this- the thermostat has a small hole to allow a little flow for movement in the pump and for air to exit and..it starts to open somewhere in the 185+ range..the book will tell exactly...and the fan comes on somewhere around 210 which is ...normally the upper end of three bars-to 4 bars, then cools it down to the mid-190s...say 197 which is the low end of 3 bars then it shuts off. That's all controlled by the thermoswitch on the radiator. For this to happen on one bar showing says yes, there is something wrong with either the gauge...or the engine coolant temp sensor..or some poor connection between the two. You replaced that sensor before and it worked...for a while. So I might be tempted to replace it again.

That’s what I’m thinking, I’m gonna test the new sensor on the bench to check the resistance at various temperatures, I test the old one last evening and the resistance readings were way too low. Thanks!

CFM has a bad reputation on electrical parts..there have been people that went through three or more thermoswitch until they got one that worked for any length of time. The others, like me are still on the original switch...go figure.

yeah go figure, so I tested the new switch on the bench and the resistance numbers were almost double the specs. At 50C / 122F manual says 152 +/- 16 (my switch was 344), 80C / 176F @ 52 +/-4. (mine 122), 100C / 212F @ 27 +/-3 (mine 49). Seems my new sensor is bad correct?

Unless they are using some other scale..or there is am issue with the setting on your meter, then yes, I would say that one has a problem too.

I got a new temperature switch under parts warranty no questions asked, installed and ran until the fan kicked In, my temperature gauge stayed on one bar. Surely not another defective part??  I wonder if there is corrosion on the connector contact Pin B ?  It's such a small pin and insert it's hard to remove any built up corrosion. I may just install a separate temperature guage that installs in line of the radiator return hose.

Not on the return hose. Need it where the temperature is at its highest, not lowest. Anywhere on the hose going to the radiator. Before the thermostat would be great but probably not possible.

Thanks NMK, ya know its weird to me that on the original switch all I did was clean terminals and it worked for a ride or two, the first replacement worked fine the first ride then quit the second ride out, and now the third one is either defective or there's something going in the harness connection at the switch or the green wire is broken somewhere  between the switch and the gauge cluster?  Driving me nuts!

After this many sensors it has to be either a connection or the cluster..IMO.

My next step I guess is I’m gonna try and locate the green wire where it goes to the cluster and check continuity. Hopefully find something??

[Davydo]

The CFM parts guy needs to stick with something he knows...maybe parts numbers. Well unless it's connection with the ECM has something to do with the display, it can only be either the sending unit, the cluster or a bad ground off the cluster..but that would effect other things too so...The thermoswitch is separate and apparently working fine cause the fan is doing what it should. More CFM junk parts...sorry..did I say that. Just found I blew a front CFM shock just trail riding yesterday so I guess I have a bit of an attitude.

NMK I ran my engine for over 20 minutes revving it occasionally while testing for leaks on my oil sensor and the engine fan finally kicked on. The grounding wire didnt revile anything as the gauge staayed on one bar. Temperature here was in the high 30s that evening. You think that's a reasonable time for the fan to kick in or too long? What I'm getting at is it possible my thermostat is stuck open? One other thing is the hose coming off the thermostat housing the intake side of the coolant path into the engine or the exit back to the radiator? That hose warmed up gradually. Thanks!

Well, I know this- the thermostat has a small hole to allow a little flow for movement in the pump and for air to exit and..it starts to open somewhere in the 185+ range..the book will tell exactly...and the fan comes on somewhere around 210 which is ...normally the upper end of three bars-to 4 bars, then cools it down to the mid-190s...say 197 which is the low end of 3 bars then it shuts off. That's all controlled by the thermoswitch on the radiator. For this to happen on one bar showing says yes, there is something wrong with either the gauge...or the engine coolant temp sensor..or some poor connection between the two. You replaced that sensor before and it worked...for a while. So I might be tempted to replace it again.

That’s what I’m thinking, I’m gonna test the new sensor on the bench to check the resistance at various temperatures, I test the old one last evening and the resistance readings were way too low. Thanks!

CFM has a bad reputation on electrical parts..there have been people that went through three or more thermoswitch until they got one that worked for any length of time. The others, like me are still on the original switch...go figure.

yeah go figure, so I tested the new switch on the bench and the resistance numbers were almost double the specs. At 50C / 122F manual says 152 +/- 16 (my switch was 344), 80C / 176F @ 52 +/-4. (mine 122), 100C / 212F @ 27 +/-3 (mine 49). Seems my new sensor is bad correct?

Unless they are using some other scale..or there is am issue with the setting on your meter, then yes, I would say that one has a problem too.

I got a new temperature switch under parts warranty no questions asked, installed and ran until the fan kicked In, my temperature gauge stayed on one bar. Surely not another defective part??  I wonder if there is corrosion on the connector contact Pin B ?  It's such a small pin and insert it's hard to remove any built up corrosion. I may just install a separate temperature guage that installs in line of the radiator return hose.

Not on the return hose. Need it where the temperature is at its highest, not lowest. Anywhere on the hose going to the radiator. Before the thermostat would be great but probably not possible.

Thanks NMK, ya know its weird to me that on the original switch all I did was clean terminals and it worked for a ride or two, the first replacement worked fine the first ride then quit the second ride out, and now the third one is either defective or there's something going in the harness connection at the switch or the green wire is broken somewhere  between the switch and the gauge cluster?  Driving me nuts!

After this many sensors it has to be either a connection or the cluster..IMO.

My next step I guess is I’m gonna try and locate the green wire where it goes to the cluster and check continuity. Hopefully find something??

I disconnected the plug on the coolant temperature switch and the wiring harness to the gauge  cluster pigtail, located the green blue wire pin and checked continuity and there were no breaches in the harness wire. I removed the switch and set up to bench test resistance as on the previous switches. Readings were too high once again, I believe I've got another bad part, ridiculous! I noticed that the mfg date stamped on the package  was the same as the previous switch. Cfmoto i figure has a bad batch of this part produced if the package is date 2018-12-18.  Back we go to the dealer parts department again, joy!

[NMKawierider]

The CFM parts guy needs to stick with something he knows...maybe parts numbers. Well unless it's connection with the ECM has something to do with the display, it can only be either the sending unit, the cluster or a bad ground off the cluster..but that would effect other things too so...The thermoswitch is separate and apparently working fine cause the fan is doing what it should. More CFM junk parts...sorry..did I say that. Just found I blew a front CFM shock just trail riding yesterday so I guess I have a bit of an attitude.

NMK I ran my engine for over 20 minutes revving it occasionally while testing for leaks on my oil sensor and the engine fan finally kicked on. The grounding wire didnt revile anything as the gauge staayed on one bar. Temperature here was in the high 30s that evening. You think that's a reasonable time for the fan to kick in or too long? What I'm getting at is it possible my thermostat is stuck open? One other thing is the hose coming off the thermostat housing the intake side of the coolant path into the engine or the exit back to the radiator? That hose warmed up gradually. Thanks!

Well, I know this- the thermostat has a small hole to allow a little flow for movement in the pump and for air to exit and..it starts to open somewhere in the 185+ range..the book will tell exactly...and the fan comes on somewhere around 210 which is ...normally the upper end of three bars-to 4 bars, then cools it down to the mid-190s...say 197 which is the low end of 3 bars then it shuts off. That's all controlled by the thermoswitch on the radiator. For this to happen on one bar showing says yes, there is something wrong with either the gauge...or the engine coolant temp sensor..or some poor connection between the two. You replaced that sensor before and it worked...for a while. So I might be tempted to replace it again.

That’s what I’m thinking, I’m gonna test the new sensor on the bench to check the resistance at various temperatures, I test the old one last evening and the resistance readings were way too low. Thanks!

CFM has a bad reputation on electrical parts..there have been people that went through three or more thermoswitch until they got one that worked for any length of time. The others, like me are still on the original switch...go figure.

yeah go figure, so I tested the new switch on the bench and the resistance numbers were almost double the specs. At 50C / 122F manual says 152 +/- 16 (my switch was 344), 80C / 176F @ 52 +/-4. (mine 122), 100C / 212F @ 27 +/-3 (mine 49). Seems my new sensor is bad correct?

Unless they are using some other scale..or there is am issue with the setting on your meter, then yes, I would say that one has a problem too.

I got a new temperature switch under parts warranty no questions asked, installed and ran until the fan kicked In, my temperature gauge stayed on one bar. Surely not another defective part??  I wonder if there is corrosion on the connector contact Pin B ?  It's such a small pin and insert it's hard to remove any built up corrosion. I may just install a separate temperature guage that installs in line of the radiator return hose.

Not on the return hose. Need it where the temperature is at its highest, not lowest. Anywhere on the hose going to the radiator. Before the thermostat would be great but probably not possible.

Thanks NMK, ya know its weird to me that on the original switch all I did was clean terminals and it worked for a ride or two, the first replacement worked fine the first ride then quit the second ride out, and now the third one is either defective or there's something going in the harness connection at the switch or the green wire is broken somewhere  between the switch and the gauge cluster?  Driving me nuts!

After this many sensors it has to be either a connection or the cluster..IMO.

My next step I guess is I’m gonna try and locate the green wire where it goes to the cluster and check continuity. Hopefully find something??

I disconnected the plug on the coolant temperature switch and the wiring harness to the gauge  cluster pigtail, located the green blue wire pin and checked continuity and there were no breaches in the harness wire. I removed the switch and set up to bench test resistance as on the previous switches. Readings were too high once again, I believe I've got another bad part, ridiculous! I noticed that the mfg date stamped on the package  was the same as the previous switch. Cfmoto i figure has a bad batch of this part produced if the package is date 2018-12-18.  Back we go to the dealer parts department again, joy!

You got to be kidding! F'k...

[Davydo]

Z8rider advised me to check the ground, so while I had the plastics off working on my intake and cvt modifications I took an alligator clipped wire and connected it to a sure fire ground bolt on top of the cvt housing, case ran her around the neighborhood and pulled back in the building and left it idling. My original sensor was reintalled by the way while I've  been waiting on a decision from the cfmoto folks on the new one i took back, so when I first touched the clip to the sensor body the gauge stayed on one bar, the I touched it again this time holding it there for about 10 seconds and bamm! I had two bars. Removed the clip and a few seconds back to one bar. Then repeated and had two bars once again! Whats going on? I grounded it before to the case because the plastics were in place and I couldn't see that ground bolt to clip to.  I also used a green scotch pad to removed any corrosion or built up tarnish from the sensor body and the casting where the sensor crush washer makes contact. The new sensors had no build up on them.

[murdo]

I am guessing that there is none (or very little through the coolant) earthing for the switch. Maybe  make a secondary earth by soldering a wire to the switch body or a ring terminal under the sealing washer.

[Davydo]

I am guessing that there is none (or very little through the coolant) earthing for the switch. Maybe  make a secondary earth by soldering a wire to the switch body or a ring terminal under the sealing washer.

Hey Murdo, the ground for the sensor is the housing it screws into. I thought about what you said attaching a wire to the sensor body and connecting to the ground screw in the right case near the cvt cover. I plan to remove the housing and scotch bride the mating surfaces as my last resort before trying the wire though, thanks!

[NMKawierider]

Z8rider advised me to check the ground, so while I had the plastics off working on my intake and cvt modifications I took an alligator clipped wire and connected it to a sure fire ground bolt on top of the cvt housing, case ran her around the neighborhood and pulled back in the building and left it idling. My original sensor was reintalled by the way while I've  been waiting on a decision from the cfmoto folks on the new one i took back, so when I first touched the clip to the sensor body the gauge stayed on one bar, the I touched it again this time holding it there for about 10 seconds and bamm! I had two bars. Removed the clip and a few seconds back to one bar. Then repeated and had two bars once again! Whats going on? I grounded it before to the case because the plastics were in place and I couldn't see that ground bolt to clip to.  I also used a green scotch pad to removed any corrosion or built up tarnish from the sensor body and the casting where the sensor crush washer makes contact. The new sensors had no build up on them.

I guess I'm not seeing it..completely. Where did you attach both ends of this ground wire? The body of the sensor to the engine case or one of the sensor's wires to the case?...or something else?

[Z8rider]

Z8rider advised me to check the ground, so while I had the plastics off working on my intake and cvt modifications I took an alligator clipped wire and connected it to a sure fire ground bolt on top of the cvt housing, case ran her around the neighborhood and pulled back in the building and left it idling. My original sensor was reintalled by the way while I've  been waiting on a decision from the cfmoto folks on the new one i took back, so when I first touched the clip to the sensor body the gauge stayed on one bar, the I touched it again this time holding it there for about 10 seconds and bamm! I had two bars. Removed the clip and a few seconds back to one bar. Then repeated and had two bars once again! Whats going on? I grounded it before to the case because the plastics were in place and I couldn't see that ground bolt to clip to.  I also used a green scotch pad to removed any corrosion or built up tarnish from the sensor body and the casting where the sensor crush washer makes contact. The new sensors had no build up on them.

I guess I'm not seeing it..completely. Where did you attach both ends of this ground wire? The body of the sensor to the engine case or one of the sensor's wires to the case?...or something else?

basically providing a secondary ground between the body of the sensor and engine ground. The sensor has a difficult time grounding trough the body.