[Sbhannam]

I just purchased a 2016 Zforce 500. I’m wondering about the preload on the shocks. The front shocks have a small amount but the nuts on the rear shocks are screwed down a long way. There is probably 4-5 inches of thread above the nut. I am wondering what is considered a normal setting.
Thanks.

[NMKawierider]

That's normal for these to look like that. The preload is correct when the machine is loaded with all the weight it normally carries and the hub center is between center (50/50) on the total suspension arc to (60/40)..that's 60% of its total travel use for compression and 40% use for rebound or extension.. and the AOA (angle of attack) is either level or within 1" higher in the rear measured from the front and rear ends of the center main skid plate.

[TJDJERRY]

So, jack up the frame until the shock is fully extended with no pre-load, measure the exposed shaft length, and then set the pre-load to expose 60% of that when sitting and loaded?  Once that is set, how do you properly set rebound and compression damping?  I know how to turn the dials (have them all just about full out right now), just not how to get them right.  Thanks.

That's normal for these to look like that. The preload is correct when the machine is loaded with all the weight it normally carries and the hub center is between center (50/50) on the total suspension arc to (60/40)..that's 60% of its total travel use for compression and 40% use for rebound or extension.. and the AOA (angle of attack) is either level or within 1" higher in the rear measured from the front and rear ends of the center main skid plate.

[NMKawierider]

Hmm..I never thought about doing that way but it might work fine. When they talk about the total swing or ark the suspension has they usually pull the spring off the shock and reinstall it jacked up with the wheel off. Then using a gig the push the hub to the top of it's stroke, set the top of the gig to the axle center then pull it all the way down and set that point. 1/2 way between the two is 50%. 10% below that would be the 60% mark giving you 60% of the total travel for compression and 40% for rebound. I guess you can mark that on the shock..or do what others have done and mount a flat bar to the top of the shock bolt leaving the bottom loose and using the lower shock bolt mark the high, low and mid points on that bar...and your 60%. When done you can measure from the shock top to the adjusting ring with some calipers and set the other side exactly the same. Lots of ways to do it.

On compression and rebound...its a matter of preference but I found that I like the smoothest ride possible so The compressions, the top knobs, I set all the way to the fast then one or two click in toward the slow.  On rebound...I find it best for me to find the center between the two, then go one or two clicks to the slow. That will take the bounce out of it.

So, jack up the frame until the shock is fully extended with no pre-load, measure the exposed shaft length, and then set the pre-load to expose 60% of that when sitting and loaded?  Once that is set, how do you properly set rebound and compression damping?  I know how to turn the dials (have them all just about full out right now), just not how to get them right.  Thanks.

That's normal for these to look like that. The preload is correct when the machine is loaded with all the weight it normally carries and the hub center is between center (50/50) on the total suspension arc to (60/40)..that's 60% of its total travel use for compression and 40% use for rebound or extension.. and the AOA (angle of attack) is either level or within 1" higher in the rear measured from the front and rear ends of the center main skid plate.

[Ponytail]

Somebody explain the fast and slow setting to me. I don’t understand how turning them would change anything.

[TJDJERRY]

Somebody explain the fast and slow setting to me. I don’t understand how turning them would change anything.

Compression damping and rebound damping change.  more damping (slow) is less springy.  less damping (fast) is bouncy.  damping controls the rate at which the shock extends or compresses under a change in load.

[NMKawierider]

Yep.Think of them like needle valves...which they are. The fluid passes through faster when opened then closed..ie fast and slow. You can also think of it as how it reacts such as in compression (compressing the spring & shock), it will compress faster with the valve open more and slower with it closed more...or the same with the rebound. After a shock compresses it has to re-extend or rebound, so it can either extent faster with the valve more open or slower with it more closed..not completely closed on either of course. I like a comfy ride and little or no rebound jolt so I like the compressions set two or sometimes three clicks in from the fastest setting and the rebounds two-three clicks to the slow from the center position. Just my preference.

[Ponytail]

Ok I got that. But I don’t understand how turning the knob on the bottom of the shock changing anything. There’s no pressure  or fluid flow change from that knob. What am I missing?

[NMKawierider]

Ok I got that. But I don’t understand how turning the knob on the bottom of the shock changing anything. There’s no pressure  or fluid flow change from that knob. What am I missing?

re-read mine.

[Ponytail]

MNK I think we were typing at the same time. Are we talking about the same adjustment. I have a knob on the top and the bottom of the shock I get the one on the top is for dampening. But the bottom,I don’t get. There’s no pressure or fluid on it.

[NMKawierider]

MNK I think we were typing at the same time. Are we talking about the same adjustment. I have a knob on the top and the bottom of the shock I get the one on the top is for dampening. But the bottom,I don’t get. There’s no pressure or fluid on it.

That's the rebound adjustment. When the shock re-extends it will actually have to pull fluid through that valve...so no pressure.

[Ponytail]

I guess I’m going to have to play with it to see the difference. There’s no valve on the bottom of the shock just a knob that turns.

[NMKawierider]

I guess I’m going to have to play with it to see the difference. There’s no valve on the bottom of the shock just a knob that turns.

Yeah..it turns the valve. But..nothing says that it isn't stripped or F-Ued somehow. Do you feel the clicks or detents? The shock I blew lost that valve's stem seal...and they do get all packed-up with BS down there. Bad design.

[Ponytail]

Yeah I feel the clicks. I’m sure it’s working. I’m just trying to get my head around how it works. Are they the same shock design on the 800 ex as the 500? I know there different lengths.

[NMKawierider]

Yeah I feel the clicks. I’m sure it’s working. I’m just trying to get my head around how it works. Are they the same shock design on the 800 ex as the 500? I know there different lengths.

Should be. Turn it to the Slow direction until it stops. The valve is then closed and it will still rebound but only through a small bypass orifice so it will be as slow as it gets. Then count the clicks to the fully open or fast position. Then close it half that number..plus 2 or 3 and you will have it where mine are...well the rear is but the fronts now have Bandits..but I set them about the same.