[CostaRicaZFORCE]

Hey all. The other day my 550 died going up hill, smelt fuel so I thought she flooded or something but when I took the plug out, it was black, covered in oil. Pulled the intake boot from the throttle body and there is just oil everywhere… compression sounds funny/weak and I noticed now I’m getting big puffs of air OUT THE FRONT of the throttle body (intake side)
Did I jump timing? Is there oil everywhere because I smashed a valve? really not looking forward to opening up the engine but I wanted to ask here first if it sounds like I even should, or just replace the block.

TIA

[CostaRicaZFORCE]

Okay, replace the block is unnecessary and was out of anger lol.
My real question is if timing is needed all the way down to a new chain, can it be done in vehicle or does the motor need to come out??

[NMKawierider]

Generally, jumping time won't make it pump oil unless when/if a valve hits the piston it cracks or breaks it. If it were mine I would first check the valve timing then do a full test set on that cylinder as in compression and leak-down test. Something bad has happened..that's been established...just need to know what.

I think you can rebuild the top-end in-frame on these with enough stuff removed. The thing to remember is that if it did jump time and she did hit a valve, if that valve or piston is damaged.. even with a dent, that may have been enough to push the oil film between the rod bearing and crank out of the way enough for them to make contact with each other. If so...there is a scuff right where the piston is at a TDC point and where detonation starts. This will cause that damage to continue until she spins that bearing or throws that rod. May take two years...may take 2 hours...but it will fail . So depending on what you find will set you on the next path. My fingers are crossed for you.

[CostaRicaZFORCE]

Thank you. In to the valve cover I go to take a look. If my chain is stretched or destroyed, it requires going in to the bottom end to replace it, correct? And engine would need to come out?
Thanks for all the info and help.

[NMKawierider]

Thank you. In to the valve cover I go to take a look. If my chain is stretched or destroyed, it requires going in to the bottom end to replace it, correct? And engine would need to come out?
Thanks for all the info and help.

You would need to take off some side covers to get to it but maybe not take it out completely. If it has damaged the crank then it's a full rebuild.

[CostaRicaZFORCE]

Cool thanks!
Just came back in from taking the valve cover off..
crankshaft says TDC, camshaft says otherwise :/ 
This looks like more than a few teeth too…..

[NMKawierider]

If the crank is on TDC of the compression stroke...then yes, it's way out of time. Post some more and better pics a little back and some of the sprocket's teeth. I ask because they did have some issues with sprockets not matching up with the chains. What year is this?

[CostaRicaZFORCE]

It’s tricky taking a better photo with the exhaust in the way. Need to fully open up the area to do the work. Going to check it one more time tomorrow to make sure I was TDC of compression stroke, was in a bit of. Hurry when initially checking today.

[CostaRicaZFORCE]

Well after further verification it turns out I was wrong and not on a compression stroke…
That being said, it only made the result worse 😳🤣
In to the engine we go
(Verified compression stroke removing the plug and make sure piston was all the way up)

[CostaRicaZFORCE]

Also sorry, the year is a 2016

[NMKawierider]

Sucks....sorry.

[CostaRicaZFORCE]

Just curious what issues they were having with timing sprockets?

My timing marks should be even with the top of the head correct?
If so that means I jumped lots of teeth.. :/

[NMKawierider]

If you have followed the procedure in the service manual to lock the crank at TDC and the lines on the sprocket do not parallel the casting edge, then it has jumped. More then one tooth and the valves will have hit the piston and that means a full rebuild. The causes for this were two-fold. One- in 2016 there were a number of chains and sprockets that did not match..as in the sprockets did not mate with the chains correctly and/or two- during the same period many chain tensioners had a problem causing the chains to run loose and jump.   

You can tell when it was a chain/sprocket issue if you see any gap under the chain and sprocket like this one. There should be none.

This one is bad and had jumped. It was never clear weather it was the chain or the sprocket that was built wrong..only that one had been. Yours looks like a bad one to me.

[CostaRicaZFORCE]

oh wow okay it looks like mine certainly has this issue.. going to take better photos. im removing the exhaust now to gain better access.

So if im in fact dealing with some wrongfully installed hardware, is CF doing anything about this? Do i need to bring to a dealer? any service bulletins anywhere regarding the issue? or am i stuck covering it all?

also, any tips for making sure im at TDC on compression stroke? my knowledge tells me as it starts getting hard to turn over.. youre entering compression stroke, when i see the notch im thinking im at TDC on compression stroke... however if my timing is WAY off, could i feel like im in compression stroke when im really not because valves are opening wrong??
As long as im at TDC and i set timing, i should be okay right?

either way, anytime i get the crankshaft tick mark in line.. the camshaft is way off. so pretty sure my timing is out regardless of if im on a compression stroke or not lol

[CostaRicaZFORCE]

Also notice a huge diference in the valve cover/heads and timing sprockets from what i have compared to whats in the service manual.. are they still pretty much the same specs for teardown on the 2? manual shows a head with little valve windows and a sproket with one bolt. my engine has a simple valve cover that opens up to the timing and cams, and my sprocket has a spring mechanism that looks like a tensioner of some sort.

and this is the manual i got from you a while back, with the ugly print