[doug80638]

Thanks, that's clear.

I would think it is ok so long as the piston doesn't go that far down the cylinder wall. You can inspect the original cylinder to verify the travel distance.

[NMKawierider]

3mm isn't much. As long as the bottom of the skirt stays within the sleeve...it's OK.

[William frijters]

Ik hen nieuwe originele zuiger en cilinders geplaatst.  Storing p0118 blijft instaan. Motor loopt niet stationair als hij warm is. Koud loopt ie mooi. Nieuwe koelwater sensor bestelden afwachten  maar.

[doug80638]

Did you by chance test the ECT/CTS sensor?  It's a simple task using a basic ohm meter.

I ask because P0118 basically means the CTS circuit is open (high resistance, full cold) which could mean a bad sensor or a bad connection or broken wire in the circuit. The two outside pins are for the ECU, and the middle pin is for the meter on the dash.

I assume the compression issue has been addressed with the new cylinders/rings.

[William frijters]

Compressie is idd in orde. Dat testen heb ik niet gedaan. Weet niet hoe dat moet. Nieuwe sensor komt eraan. Hoop dat het dan is opgelost.

[doug80638]

If you are so inclined, you can connect the two outside pins with an Ohm meter. If it reads as an open circuit, it's broken. If it reads with some resistance, you can warm the device (hot water) and if the resistance changes significantly, the sensor is likely working.

Good luck!

[William frijters]

Bedankt

[William frijters]

Blijf nog steeds code p0118 houden. Draadbreuk gezocht maar niets gevonden. Raar is dat hij soms zomaar goed loopt zonder storing. Bij de krukas sensor zit op de buitenmantel een groen zwarte draad waar is dat voor.
Fan slaat aan maar heb maar 2 blokjes in de temperatuur aanwijzing in het dashboard.
Snap er helemaal niets van. Weet het eigenlijk niet meer help.

[doug80638]

The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor doesn't control the fan. There is a thermostatic switch on the radiator that engages the fan circuit when the coolant in the radiator gets up to a certain temperature. It sounds like yours is working fine.

The temperature blocks on the gauge get their value from the ECT sensor center pin, so it looks like the sensor is working, at least to a point.

As for p0118, the ECU doesn't like the signal it's seeing from the engine coolant sensor pins on the ECU. The best way to diagnose this is with a PDA to read the values as the ECU sees them, and to check the value the sensor is providing using an typical voltage/ohm meter. If the values are different, then the harness and connections between the two points needs to be checked.  Perhaps the dealer can help with this.

Bad/weak ground points have provided a source of electrical difficulties for other issues, but I do not believe the ECT sensor uses a ground. Still worth checking.

Good luck.

[William frijters]

Ik heb als laatste de kabelboom vervangen die naar de sensoren en injectoren gaat. En de krukas sensor vervangen.  Quad loopt nu oké. Echter de code p0118 blijft inkomen.
Als ik hem dam afzet met contact uit. Is de storing weg. Maar na stukje rijden komt de code weer terug.

Vr gr william

[doug80638]

Translation:

I finally replaced the wiring harness that goes to the sensors and injectors. And replaced the crankshaft sensor. Quad runs ok now. However, the code p0118 continues to come in.
If I dam him with ignition off. Is the malfunction gone? But after driving for a while, the code comes back.

So the water temp circuit is seeing a higher than expected voltage (or the circuit is open). This could be the sensor, or it could be a wiring issue (shorted to a different voltage source, bad ground).  You can disconnect the sensor and test the ECU sensing wire for any voltage. If it has any, there is a wiring issue. If there is not, replace the sensor.