[Hunttux]

2018 Force 800

Been having a slight oil leak that got much worse the other day. Read up on it on here and it sounded like it could be the yoke bolt. Dropped the plastics to check and sure enough, the bolt was completely out and came down when I dropped the plastic.

Looking at it I can't for the life of me figure out how to access that area to put it back in. Read some posts about backing out the rear diff but am not understanding.

Anyone done this and have any pointers or can walk me through please?

Thanks

[NMKawierider]

Pretty sure mine is loose too on my 15 Z800. Looks to be a PITA but as I understand it on mine I pull the caliper on the e brake, remove some bolts from the rotor, unbolt the rear gear case and move it to the rear which pulls it away from the driveline and exposes that bolt. Probably more to it then that..as usual..but...

[Hunttux]

Yeah. Definitely a pain.

Took another look just now with a friend and still not totally sure how to get at it. Looks like if I pull the c clips and pop off the 'cross assembly' component I may be able to get a socket in to crank it down. Very little room in there to do anything.

And to top it off, the threads on the bolt itself are dinged somehow so I need a new bolt anyway. Hopefully I can source one easily enough- will find out during the week.

[NMKawierider]

Yeah and find the torque spec and add about 5ftlbs to it plus some good red thread locker. Take some pics. You are not the first to have this happen...and likely not the last.

[Hunttux]

I'm at a total loss as to how to get to this thing. Two of the bolts holding the rear diff can't be taken out. They but up to the vertical frame sections that are welded in place. So I can't move the diff back as described.

And I don't think I can even get room to get the clips out and pull apart the joint. I can't see how I can bang it out with the amount of clearance.

Interestingly, the service manual I found shows different components than I have... the image below from the manual shows the ujoint bolting to a plate with 4 bolts (part 15 below).  I don't have that component- there are no fasteners or mounting plate on my joint.

[Hunttux]

Diff bolts/frame

[NMKawierider]

When I go to Alpha-sports and look up 2018 UForce 800, the rear drive line is exactly like yours (Pic below) Are you sure you have the right manual?
Sucks about the diff bolts. Gota be another way.



 

[Hunttux]

Yeah- your image is the right one. I think the manual I found must be an older one.

I do note that in the image you posted it shows all 4 of the bolts going in from the same (other)direction. In my reality, the two that I can't get out are reversed and come from the other side. I can't figure out how they got them in to begin with. It's like they bolted the diff in THEN welded the frame together. There doesn't seem to be another explanation.

Such a nightmare.

[NMKawierider]

IF...the bolts were out...could they go back in on the other side? If so..get new ones and cut those off.

[Hunttux]

Yeah- that's what I am thinking. Assuming I can get in there and cut them. Hopefully i can. I'm still not totally clear that I will then be able to move the diff back and get to the yoke bolt location. Pretty much out of other ideas though, so I will probably try that and hope for the best

[NMKawierider]

I guess you tried to reach through with a wrench and there is just no way. Looks like the two line yokes are splined together with a rubber dust shield over that. Probably have to cut a band to seperate.. but the rear shaft yoke will still be in the way until the u-joint is removed from the rear yoke. I think I might be tempted to just pop the clips on the rear yoke and try to work the u joint out of it and off to the side. Should be some movement on the spline. Just thinking out load here. 

[Hunttux]

No way to get it with a wrench. It's inset in there and there just isn't any room.

I was looking at the rear joint- it's easier to get to and I can probably get the clips out and have room to push it apart. Not sure if that gives me enough wiggle room, but it's easier to try than the joint where the bolt in question goes in.

The image you posted above from the manual doesn't actually show the bolt that came out. Shows it on the hoint next to the diff, but not the one on the case side. I've yet to determine if the yoke bolt has to thread through the U or if it goes into the case first and the U just slides on a spline after.

Nothing like learning how drive shaft mechanics work under pressure/on the fly lol...

[NMKawierider]

I see the bolt and washer on the rear diff pic

[Hunttux]

I don't see it on the end where it backed out- see arrow. Unless I'm completely spun around and focused on the wrong spot entirely, although I'm fairly certain I can see where it's missing from.

[NMKawierider]

Oh I thought it was the bolt that held the rear yoke on to the pinion. That's the one that most have had come loose, not the one on the engine side. My bad. It should be on the transmission or bevel shaft breakdown...but it isn't. No matter where I look I don't see a bolt there that holds that yoke on.. Weird.  Still, if there is one in it the ujoint has to come out of the yoke to get to it. So..you do see it in there...right?

A little fun fact about CFM is that any time they show an engine, it is orientated the way they install them in ATVs. In UTVs they are in backwards to ATVs so in the parts breakdown when looking at the engine, the arrow showing "Front" will be pointing to the back on a U or a Z, not the front. But in a C it will be correct. Also goes for cylinder numbering. #1 is the far rear on the Us and Zs where its flipped on the Cs.