[NMKawierider]

Did you also put new bearings on the shaft and the cover? 8 out of 10 times the cover bearing gets play and lets the shaft cock on the inner bearing wasting it...which lets the bell set cock-eyed with the wet clutch shoes and oneway. Take the belt off and see how it acts..and sounds..other then it won't go anywhere.

On that cover bearing- people don't always think about it but once the wet clutch is fully engaged, that shaft spins the same speed as the crankshaft..up to 7750 or so..which anything above about 4000 is outside the duty range of most bearing of that type..being a semi-sealed grease roller or ball type. Add that CFM and their suppliers are very stingy with grease and there you go. At 300 miles I found mine was already getting stiff so I flushed it out with brakeKlean and from the bottom-up repacked it with the best high speed, high heat wheel bearing grease I can find.. then put is all back together. I do this every time I have the cover off and always find it needs it..but the bearing is still smooth and tight.

Just something to check. 

[2strokejunkies]

I put new bearing in outer cover and inside cover for the clutch housing shaft ,everything to do with the primary drive is new from wet clutch to cover. I can rev it up and its works fine with no noise just when i stop or idle the noise is there.

[NMKawierider]

I put new bearing in outer cover and inside cover for the clutch housing shaft ,everything to do with the primary drive is new from wet clutch to cover. I can rev it up and its works fine with no noise just when i stop or idle the noise is there.

Can you post a sound clip? These can be noisy because of two things, one-bad springs on the wet clutch shoes. Two- warn or loose flyweights in the primary or a problem with the cam plate. Does it stop when you get going say..3+ MPH?

[2strokejunkies]

I will add a sound clip after , wet clutch is new, primary clutch is brand new. As soon as you spped it up it goes away then when i stop it stalls the bike and you cant shift.

[NMKawierider]

Oh..sounds like..when just sitting there the cam plate and flyweights are loose as heck and making all kinds of noise.. then when you engage it all gets tight and quiet..then it binds-up on it way back down and doesn't completely disengage. Check the splines on the end of the cam plate and that the rollers/sliders are in correctly. Post some photos..let us see.

[2strokejunkies]

What are the cam plates that you are talking about. I will get video  up soon

[NMKawierider]

What are the cam plates that you are talking about. I will get video  up soon

That outer or last plate that goes on after the rollers are installed. Pull the retainer cause I want to see the splines on the end. Then lets see the how the rollers are doing.

[2strokejunkies]

So that is all brand new from dealer , here is the list of all new items and the bike has not moved 3ft since install.I have read that if idle is to high the wet clutch can do this. I cant get video to load it is really blurry.

Wet Clutch
One Way Bearing
Clutch housing
Bearing in case
Outer bearing in clutch cover
Complete new primary clutch
new gaskets

[2strokejunkies]

Hey guys , so i have left this bike sit all summer and drove my rzr xp 1000. Now i need to get this bike running again so i can sell it. It continues to have the awful noise and it just stalls all the time . I have noticed the rpms are like 2200 sometimes and i have tried to slow it down by adjusting the throttle cable on throttle body. To me its like the wet clutch shoes are coming out while idling to high adn causing the noise and stalling.

I have put on a new wet clutch , one way bearing , can turn primary counter but not clockwise , installed a whole new primary clutch , gaskets and it still does this noise and stalls. What could be wrong with this machine that not even new parts will fix.

[NMKawierider]

In the video I can see the shaft tip wandering so the inner bearing had play..which will allow misalignment between the bell and wet clutch as well as the oneway and make that type of sounds as they impact on themselves. I also suspect the outer bearing, the one in the cover, also has play so both and the seal need replaced. And it is not a good idea to run it with the belt on with only the support of the one inner bearing...BTW.    

EFI machines use an idle air control valve to give it the correct air to idle with. Adjusting the throttle cable to open the butterfly is not the right thing to do. Better to test and clean...or replace the the problem unit. People have been able to free them up with spray carb cleaner. 

[2strokejunkies]

Yes i aslo put new bearings in cover and inner bearing , everything is new and it still does the same thing. I start it and drive 3ft then it stalls out , if you try to restart the bike it will just jump foward and stall out.

[NMKawierider]

The shaft..and clutch movement is undeniable. Maybe the shaft is warped but the movement is inconsistent...which makes the possibility of a loose engine main bearing or warped bell..or a problem with the wet clutch in the realm of possible causes..but more often the inner bearing has the movement.   

Take the clutch off..at least the belt and see if the sound changes or goes away. While there see if the shaft has any movement at all without the clutch or belt on.

[NMKawierider]

Sounds even worse slowed down:

[2strokejunkies]

So i got to work on this ting again and i fired it up with no clutchs, then with the primary on and there is more noise with clutch on. This is a brand new primary clutch from dealer, also i noticed i can't turn primary counterclockwise anymore . So i need a new one way again , why does this thing keep toasting one way bearings.

[2strokejunkies]

Couple more vids...