Ever start a simple project and have it take like 3 times longer than it should have taken? Well, after after scoring a super deal ($180.00 off a badass turbo 1000 CanAm) on some used 90% 28" Maxxis tires. As I assumed they might, the rears rubbed a bit on full compression. So...refusing to pay $200.00 or better for some simple spring spacers, I went the pipe lift route using 2" PVC couplings with the center joints ground out and a full length of 2" pipe glued in to reinforce the coupling.

The couplings measured 1 3/4 " tall, but were trimmed down to 1 ". Having no way to keep the spacer centered on the shock, I used some 1" rubber tape liner to fill the space between the spacer and shock keeping it centered, and used the spring centering washer found on top of the preload adjuster on top of the
spacer to keep the spring centered.

The nightmare was...small enough yet strong enough spring compressors. I used the TUSK spring compressors, and they were very shaky, looking pretty bent up when done with them, pretty much only suitable for lighter duty applications. For the two fronts I ended up using a larger strut set that were too big, to place the smaller ones on to hold long enough to get things back together. For the rears which were much stiffer, I ended up using a small floor jack and 4 tie downs, which also was a balancing act, but worked.

In the end, I went from 9 1/2 inches clearance in front, with the preload adjust cranked all the way up, to 11 1/2 inches clearance, with a 1 " spacer, with the preload all the way down. In the rear before was 10 1/2 inches at full preload, after 12" also with a 1" spacer on lowest preload. Definitely recommend a heavy duty spring compressor such as the Super ATV unit for anyone playing with their springs, or you could get a major pinch or bleed. I only bled slightly this time.

There was plenty of droop left, ride was still quite good, and no further compression was need to bolt them back on. I wouldn't use any spacer more than 1" on a U Force, or at full droop under pressure you might bind cv's, and the 1" gave the desired 2" lift.

Ever start a simple project and have it take like 3 times longer than it should have taken?

Yeah...pretty much every time. Very ingenious using the PVC fittings and the floor jack, keep us posted down the road as to how the spacers hold up.

Was the 2" of lift just from the spacers added to the shocks or is that a combination of the shock lift and increased tire height?

Thanks,
Ken

Was the 2" of lift just from the spacers added to the shocks or is that a combination of the shock lift and increased tire height?

Thanks,
Ken

The 2" lift was strictly from the 1" spacers, the tires gave about 1 1/2 inches going from the stock 26" tires to 28's. Not sure how you get more lift than the height of the spacers, must be the geometry of the suspension and a arms that it turns out that way.

Also I found that on a really hard hit, I still get a slight rub in the rear, but not enough to make me want to lift any more, as I don't want to go any wider if I can help it. I may just trim the ribs on the bottom of the dump bed a bit where it gets a slight rub. Probably 27" tires would be best for a 2 " lift, and 2 1/2 or 3" for 28" tires.

When I was getting ready to add a 3" lift to mine a few fellows on here cautioned me about it and told me that I would get more than 3", I went with a 2" lift on the frame and ended up with more, I also went with a 27" tire which should have given me another 1/2" but I actually gained more than an inch, My tires were worn but I am fairly certain the 26" factory tire is less than 26", anyway glad that it worked out for you.