And, if I attach the pics correctly you can see how far out the blade is when fully angled over, way too much IMO. This really puts strain on the front. I had to make my own plow mount originally as they weren't available the time. It was the same that everyone sells pretty much-I have cnc, plasma etc. If you use that one, and it will work if your careful, I recommend at least re-tapping the plow adapter mount holes to a course thread, higher quality bolt (and loctite them in) as mine just ripped the bolts and bent the front steel cover. Also make sure you check them a couple times a season to make sure they don't get loose. And as I said before, this was a slow (no more than 5mph) blade trip when a foot went in a pothole and caught the asphalt.
The second pic is the mount I made. The frame pushes almost directly on the push tube, underneath is a steel sheet going back to about under the seats. I also welded some 1/8x1.5x1.5 angle down the sheet about the original square frame. I'm sure its metric but the frame seems no thicker than 16 gauge or lighter.
I may end up making my own push tube and mid-mounting it. I had a Kawi Brute Force 750 before this and loved the mid-mount. I'm pretty sure most, if not all, other brands push tubes stick out this far, as they like to be one size fits all.
The benefit of the cable system over hydraulic is that the blade can float up more than hydraulic. I only have a 2 inches of float, and my hydraulic provides no down force. My damage was caused when I was using a cable lift system tho.
The 72 blade will clear your tires when tilted, I'm not sure of 66.
I went full nuts and enclosed the cab and put doors and a heater in mine.