Any CVT dry or wet will smoke the belt in seconds. It's operator induced, not intentional by any means. You need to engage the clutch & move.
Many think it's like our automatic transmission in the vehicles we drive, we can sit on a hill & hold the vehicle. Not so with our CVT's we burn the belt.
You do not have to baby the machine, you have to operate appropriately. Get used to a little higher rpm & noise, it's built for it.
This is my understanding of how wet versus dry clutches work. Information taken from another forum.
It appears that a wet clutch will slip before the belt does when put under heavy load if I read this right thus less wear on the belt?
http://www.rhinoforums.net/engine/41204-wet-dry-clutches-im-new-sorry.html"A wet clutch engages in the motor as stated. There is a clutch between the primary and the motor inside the oil (thus wet comes in). The primary has no springs, but rather roller weights. And as RPM climb, it engages, then it turns the primary, and the roller weights are thrown to the outside by centrifugal force, and they move along an angled ramp. The farther from the center, the more narrow the ramp, and thus the primary sheave starts closing, and the bike upshifts. The advantage of this setup is, adding stall doesnt become jerky, long clutch life, smooth engagement, and constant belt tension. And you should never slip the belt if its clean and dry. Since the wet clutch should slip before the belt does. But it cant hold a ton of power. After a certain point, you are gonna spin the clutch. Now if you dont change the motor, you shouldnt have an issue with the 660, or 700 (686) motors. Maybe if you do like a 907 kit or something, but for the most part, its good to go with the stock block. You also cant run any kind of oil you want with this setup, it must be wet clutch compliant (friction modifier), or the clutch will slip more, and wear it out, and performance is hindered.
A dry clutch is directly bolted to the crank, and has a primary spring, and fly weights. As the RPM build, the fly weights are pressed against the primary sheave, and fight against the spring. The spring has a snap action. The primary spins slowly, and will eventually overtake the spring snap action, and slam shut on the belt, and starting the bike to move forward. As the RPM build, the fly weights are pressing against the sheave, causing it to close, and the bike upshifts.
The advantage of the dry clutch (snowmobile style) is that it can hold a lot more power. Its harder to tune, and almost impossible to tune at home with mods. You need to buy new flyweights. Adding stall makes engagement jerky. And adding stall shortens belt life substantually. This is due to the fact that the belt sits idle on the primary as it spins (no tension, so it just slips on the inside of the belt), and it slams shut and starts moving the belt. If there is too much restriction on the tires, you will slip the belt. And as you engage and disengage its constantly slamming on the belt, and slipping a bit as it gets dirty or dusty, and it will glaze the outer edge, making it slip easier and easier, till the belt is chewed. So stall isnt a good thing with these clutches. But they can hold more power, so its popular among the boys who run big power. Till a certain point, then they go with a gear setup instead of a belt. But you can run any motor oil you want, sicne there is no wet clutch, so feel free to run that $18 a quart full synthetic that race cars use.
In both cases the secondary springs, help fight the upshift, and help backshift. In dry clutch setups a helix is involved to aid in the back shift setup
Here is a general breakdown of quads that use each clutch stock.
Dry Clutch:
Can-am
Last gen Popos
Kawi
Wet Clutch:
Suzuki KQ
Yami
Polaris XP models
AC (same as the KQs really)"