[Nicmoto]

Hi there, I have a UTV with a Jerky CVT drive when starting off and stalls sometimes also hard to move into gear with the selector however when its switched off it goes into gear really easy. Ive taken the clutch off and the bearing seams tight non sprag type, the face of the outer clutch appears to have cracks and a ridge in it the belt itself is a Dayco and looks ok. Would this clutch be the source of my issues or should I try throwing a new belt in first?

Non wet clutch.

Hope you can help me figure out a fix!

[NMKawierider]

Welcome. First, that clutch is gone.. so replace it.. completely...and as it like like it's covered with oil, the shaft seal and probably the bearing will need replaced if it has a wet clutch(didn't mention the year) and if it does have one, check that the springs and shoes are in good condition. If no wet clutch then find and fix the source of the contamination and replace the one-way bearing. It may feel tight, but it's failing.

[Nicmoto]

Thanks for the advice and info, the contamination is from my hands as I'd just finished replacing the camchain tensioner which died and jumped a tooth. The clutch was pretty clean in behind the cover before I touched it.

I'm interested to know what caused the cracking, whether incorrect installation in the past, the bearing collapsing or some other reason.  Its done 10,000km and was treated pretty rough before I got it.

Thanks for the help!

[NMKawierider]

I'm interested to know what caused the cracking, whether incorrect installation in the past, the bearing collapsing or some other reason.  Its done 10,000km and was treated pretty rough before I got it.

Thanks for the help!

That's probably it..lots of hard miles/KMs. Others have had them crack well sooner then 10,000 KM or 6213 miles.

[Nicmoto]

Update: As the clutch was in such poor condition I've ordered a complete clutch kit. So to get ready for the install I had to remove the rear cone off the crank, I used the water (I used oil instead as I didn't want anything rusting) hydraulic method. My first few attempts failed as I didn't use thread tape (teflon or plumbers tape) which later made all the difference, rather than tip the unit up on its side I plugged up the end with Vaseline and used an oil can to top up the shaft once full I smeared the vas to plug it. I then used an impact gun to tighten up the left hand thread long clutch bolt which tries to compress the liquid however it can't compress it so the cone has no option but to release. The thread is in the cone end and working against the liquid the pressure pushes against the crank and the cone at the same time if that makes sense. I've got a remover tool coming in the post this week but alas I won't need it..... BTW It went off like a firecracker!