[Lazydayz]

Anyone know why or have a solution to the cv tech clutch rattle at idle it’s quite disturbing 😳
You can hear it through the intake

[NMKawierider]

On these with rollers or sliders against a cam plate, once the plastic of the sliders/rollers wear a little they get loose as the cam plate no longer holds them tight. And they get loose in the tracks. I had to replace my rollers with Dr Pulley sliders...and BTW, they make the base parts for yours too, and my helix ramps on my secondary by 500 miles because of all the abrasive dirt and dust being pumped through. I also ported the CVT intake to where I could install a filter. That ended the wearing....but not without some PITA. I couldn't go more then about 30 miles on dusty roads or trails without plugging-up that filter. I even put a booster fan on when it started getting hot (also put on a temp gauge) but that only got me an extra 10 miles before I had to be.."That Guy" and stop to bang-out the filter. I've sense installed a Donaldson Top Spin prefilter/particle separator until I could justify the 400 bucks for the S&B. But its working pretty good. Takes out a little over 65% of the incoming dust and it's positions higher so it gets less. Been on four rides now this year and no filter issues...haven't even check them. Guess I should. And its been over a thousand miles sense I've had the cover off so..not bad. Dirt and dust is a killer.   

[Lazydayz]

On these with rollers or sliders against a cam plate, once the plastic of the sliders/rollers wear a little they get loose as the cam plate no longer holds them tight. And they get loose in the tracks. I had to replace my rollers with Dr Pulley sliders...and BTW, they make the base parts for yours too, and my helix ramps on my secondary by 500 miles because of all the abrasive dirt and dust being pumped through. I also ported the CVT intake to where I could install a filter. That ended the wearing....but not without some PITA. I couldn't go more then about 30 miles on dusty roads or trails without plugging-up that filter. I even put a booster fan on when it started getting hot (also put on a temp gauge) but that only got me an extra 10 miles before I had to be.."That Guy" and stop to bang-out the filter. I've sense installed a Donaldson Top Spin prefilter/particle separator until I could justify the 400 bucks for the S&B. But its working pretty good. Takes out a little over 65% of the incoming dust and it's positions higher so it gets less. Been on four rides now this year and no filter issues...haven't even check them. Guess I should. And its been over a thousand miles sense I've had the cover off so..not bad. Dirt and dust is a killer.

#7 ? Is that what you talking about
After a lil YouTubing lol
Canams seem to have the same issue with that part an guys are high temp rtv them in place

[NMKawierider]

#7s do get loose over time but it's the #9s that get sloppy against the plate and tracks. Replace both as they both cam make for a noisy clutch. Check the bearing while there. Many fail pretty quickly cause CFM doesn't use much grease in...anything.

[Lazydayz]

I put in new sliders # 7 they were really tight to put in an the top plate had to be pushed on to get it to seat sit down on the clutch and now it’s hard to shift have to turn it off to shift easily
Clutch rattle is gone but it won’t fully open an trying to engage
Like it’s trying to still move
 
I’m thinking if I run it a bit they’ll  work in but some insight would help
Lol

[NMKawierider]

Need to edit that to something we can understand..lol

[Lazydayz]

Lol done

[NMKawierider]

The movable sheave must slide smooth and free on those slides..has to, otherwise the clutch won't work right and will bind..maybe fully engaged...or allow the belt to not get the pressure it needs burning it up. Could they be the wrong ones or put in wrong? Don't use it until this gets fixed.

[Lazydayz]

Ya I took it for a ride tonight there the right part number etc
But they definitely too tight there in right just tight on the slide not sure why maybe heat has change the rib a bit
I’ll tear it apart tomorrow I want to change the clocking weights again  etc anyway ya know 10th time is the charm lol
I’ll see what’s going as the move with “easily” with throttle just won’t fully disengage

[Farmer]

Did a lot of driving this past weekend through a lot of water now when I slow down the engine break makes a loud noise is it a wet belt

[NMKawierider]

Did a lot of driving this past weekend through a lot of water now when I slow down the engine break makes a loud noise is it a wet belt

The 1000s don't have engine braking other then what all CVT systems have until belt release. They do however have the belt idler bearing which comes into contact with the belt when the clutch releases the belt so if the noise starts below say..3mph it may be that bearing. Otherwise, yes a wet..or muddy belt will make some strange sounds as pressure is reduced on deceleration from slippage...which you do not want. I would pull the cover and check. Then dry and clean as necessary.

[Farmer]

Thanks so much!

[Lazydayz]

Lil update
Took clutch apart an found they had a lil burr on them from the mold sanded that down an boom sliding like a stripper on a pole looking for 20s
Shift is smooth an no more ratttttttlllleeeee lol

[NMKawierider]

Lil update
Took clutch apart an found they had a lil burr on them from the mold sanded that down an boom sliding like a stripper on a pole looking for 20s
Shift is smooth an no more ratttttttlllleeeee lol

Good.

[Bleeb]

I put Sentry gun lube on my #9s (a graphite-type powder) the last time I was i there and the rattle went away. Good call on the molding burrs. They'll sit better.