[Cinobyte]

1 yr old uforce doesn't seem to be charging the battery after I let the battery die. I had no previous issues until the battery went dead and was wondering if there was a fuse I could check that I missed.
The long version may help
Uforce would not start after sitting for a few days (I could have left the radio on). I popped the bed to charge the battery and noticed my quick connect had fallen and melted the fuse blew in the quick connect as it should have. I charged the battery for a while (not full charge) but enough to start the machine. I went a few miles down the road and noticed the voltage fluctuating and then the voltage started dropping until the battery light popped on. so I charged the battery fully today and after about 15 miles and 40 minutes, I noticed the light had popped back on so back home and back on the charger. I feel like I either toasted the battery or I missed a fuse that popped when the charger quick connect got shorted.
thanks for any help

[NMKawierider]

Likely the battery is damaged from 100% discharged for too long. Charge it again then have it load tested. Bet it doesn't pass. More concerning is that the charging system now can't keep up. Bad batteries have been known to damage stators and rectifiers though. Test it and replace it if necessary then take a static voltage reading before starting them one while it's running above say..2000rpms. Static should be between 12.4 and 12.9 volts and running should be 14.2-14.7 volts. Report back what you find.

[Cinobyte]

partial update.
I took the battery down to advance to get them to load test and they said it tasted good. It's terrible but every time I let them test a battery it feels like they are guessing how to test it and what the results are. (I haven't had a chance to hit with a multimeter work has been busy.
I have a battery coming since the local selection was very slim on the choices. I still plan on checking the voltage I haven't seen anything over 12.2 on the dash voltage meter after I let it drain down.

I will let you know what I find once I test it.

[Cinobyte]

OK, fully charged battery voltage never exceeds 12.8. If I turn on all the electrical accessories it pulls the voltage down to 11's and the battery light pops on. If I turn off all accessories the voltage will come back up to 12.2 or so. Would you look at the stator or rectifier? What's the best way to test them? I assume rectifier I could test with a multimeter.

[NMKawierider]

If it's running and you are getting those readings...on a good battery, then it's not charging at all. Does the voltage change at all with higher RPMs? Usually when a stator fails it's one set of coils so you read lower voltage numbers but not zero. I would however test the stator's phase voltage, individual voltage and ohms as outlined in the service manual first. Testing the rectifier/regulator is a bit more tricky. Are you sure the main fuse and it's holder test out good? There were some problems with those having internal bad crimps. Make real sure the rectifier is well grounded.

[Cinobyte]

the more I have been reading the more I am leaning toward a fuse probably just hoping it's a fuse. Isn't there a main fuse close to the battery and another under the hood?

[Cinobyte]

yep just looked 40 amp close to the battery was blown. I should have checked fuses closer on my initial check. Let's just say I was 100% sure the spare fuse was good when I hit with a multimeter two days ago
ugh
thanks for the help

[NMKawierider]

Hmm..with the main fuse blown, how do you think the system got power to energize the starter solenoid to crank it..and the rest like the ignition and fuel systems to run? Anyway glad it's working now.