[Bloveland20]

I am really hoping someone can give me at least a starting point on where to look. My 1000 has a solid check engine light. This machine is 100 percent stock. With 103 miles on it. It is wad manufactured on 10/21/20 if thar matters

The codes are

P0131 02 sensor low voltage bank 1 sensor one

P0108 manifold absolute pressure/barometric pressure circuit high

P0627 fuel pump A control circuit open

P0031 ho2s heater control circuit low bank one sensor one

P0560 system voltage

P0458 evaporative emision system purge control valve circuit low

P0130 02 sensor circuit bank 1 sensor one.

[Lazydayz]

Have you checked all the fuses under the hood
It’s a long shot but I tripped a fuse some how one day an got a pile of codes like that was 1 fuse in there caused a pile of codes
I missed it the first time an a buddy seen it after I pulled my hair out for days

[Bloveland20]

I did check the fuses and none are blown

[NMKawierider]

With a list like that I would think there is a harness problem...like rodent damage...bad. Look everywhere.

[Bloveland20]

I am seriously about to hook this to my tractor, tow it into the woods an lite it on fire. This unit is 100% stock and throwing 7 codes.   My son loves driving this but now it's legit stuck in the garage. I am a formel ase certified diesel mechanic so I'd do my way around a tool box but this has me lost and I would truly love to fix this asap for my boy.

[NMKawierider]

Maybe the connector for the ECU got water in it and corroded some pins..worth a check.

[Bloveland20]

I have randomly shaken connections while running and nothing seems to change. I really need to get this fixed as I do hate disappoint the kids.. . Obviously when they aren't being little A holes lol.  In all seriousness this machine has legit never been really abused. Garage kept, mainly driven by me or the boss lady from our house to the neighbors on paved rd about 1.2 miles apart or the kids riding on the yard part of our property.  Zero modification other than a switch between eco/sport mode thar was use Maybe three times and was disconnected during troubleshooting as limited as that wad as gas machines and me don't get along....

[NMKawierider]

Just going take a little more then shaking a few connections. Too many error codes on too may different systems to be one thing or one sensor. But....low system power or voltage across the board can give reading like that and CFM did have some real issues with their main fuse holder...not the fuse but the crimp connections inside the holder. This would have enough resistance to cut power several volts and cause all kinds of weird things. With the lights on test the power at the battery of the incoming side of the main fuse and then on the out going of load side. They should be the same but if bad it will be less. And if it's like two volts less..you may have found the problem.

[Bloveland20]

Just went out with my meter and found something odd. I pulled the 10amp main relay fuse. There is power feeding both sides???  I'm getting 11.88 on the left and the other side which should be dead is getting 8.54 volts. Has anyone seen this before as I have never tested a fuse connector and seen powe on both sides with the fuse pulled???

[NMKawierider]

Tends to indicate a failed chassis or system ground in some instances. I would pull fuses until it goes to zero on the load side. BUT..being under 12 volts on the line side is also troubling. It should be the same as the battery and that should be at or above 12.6 volts just sitting there. If it is the same as the battery either you have a bad battery or millimeter. Below 12.4 is not acceptable. 

[Bloveland20]

Thank you for that info.  I double checked with a second meter before the earlier post. The battery was low so I have it pulled and on charge now. I'll def do the pull fuse test you recommended when I reinstall

[Bloveland20]

I just hooked up the battery after charging.

When I removed the 15A signal control fuse voltage on the load side of the 10A main relay fuse disappeared.

Now for some questions/ more info.
Whe turning the key to accessory is the fuel pump supposed to run continuously or prime then stop. Mine runs no stop.
Here is some info
With the signal control fuse in place and the main relay fuse removed I can hear the fuel pump running. If tap the plastic right in front of the fuse block the fuel pump will stop. So that leads me to think the relay is faulty but I am no automotive electrician by any means. Now with the pump stopped if I take my test light and touch the load side of the 10A main fuse terminal to check for voltage the pump starts the moment I touch that side of the receptical.

[Bloveland20]

Not sure why but the fuel pump constantly running went away. All I did was unplug the fuel pump connecter and plugged back in. No corrosion present. Also touching rhe load side of main relay fuse no longer starts the pump.

Still getting voltage to load side of main relay fuse. Voltage of line side does match batter voltage after charging

[NMKawierider]

I'm sure there is a logical and maybe simple reason for all this but...it escapes me right now.

[Bloveland20]

Well I'll def try anything to get this fixed. The only plus side to troubleshooting this all day is my son has been voluntarily helping me which hey any time a 16 year old wants to hang out with his old man is a plus.

The open issue is the power in the line side of the main relay fuse. Def wish I had more automotive electrical knowledge