[flash]

Hey guys, when will the a arms be ready and what price will they be ?

[Jason]

@SuperATV

[Jason]

http://www.superatv.com/A-Arms-C1738.aspx

Looks like they just got them added to the site.

[Sockman]

Is anybody running these?  If so, likes, dislikes, etc? 

Would like to add some ground clearance, and then maybe soften up the pre-load on the shocks in search of a little cushier ride.

[flash]

Hey sockman,yes we have these on ours front and rear, really like them a lot.
then i softened up the preload and set the compression and rebound to my liking,
the ride is no comparison to stock, so much better. only problem we’ve had with them
was I broke two sway bar mounting tabs on the upper a-arms, called SATV, they replaced
them no problem.very good company to deal with.
now I just ride with the sway bar disconnected, think I like it better, takes some getting
used to.

[Sockman]

Hey sockman,yes we have these on ours front and rear, really like them a lot.
then i softened up the preload and set the compression and rebound to my liking,
the ride is no comparison to stock, so much better. only problem we’ve had with them
was I broke two sway bar mounting tabs on the upper a-arms, called SATV, they replaced
them no problem.very good company to deal with.
now I just ride with the sway bar disconnected, think I like it better, takes some getting
used to.

Awesome, thanks for the response.  What is the difference between with or without the offset? 

[Srb88042]

Buy new bushings. Don’t try to press your factory ones out you’ll destroy them. I recommend brass as the fitment of these isn’t quite like the stock ones. Brass bushings will take the slop out!

[Sockman]

I've had both rear SuperATV a-arms break off the mounting tab for the stabilizer link.  First the right side, which I thought was a fluke thing, so I welded a 3/16" piece of steel over it, and then a couple rides later, the left side broke off exactly as the other. 

[NMKawierider]

I've had both rear SuperATV a-arms break off the mounting tab for the stabilizer link.  First the right side, which I thought was a fluke thing, so I welded a 3/16" piece of steel over it, and then a couple rides later, the left side broke off exactly as the other. 

I heard something about that with another manufacturer...I think Polaris. The issue was..at least for them that the position of the mount required a longer link..or something like that.

[Sockman]

I swore I took pics of the repair I did on the right side, but can't find it.  Here's the left side.  It is a pretty weak set up, but unsure why it broke.  I tried to find some pics of the rear suspension before I replaced the rear a-arms (so see how the stabilizer bar was oriented to the a-arms), but couldn't find anything.

After I fix this, should I make the stabilizer link longer?  Half inch?  I guess I could cut it in the middle then weld a sleeve in place that extends it to whatever length I need.

[NMKawierider]

Just looking at the design, the tab being lateral and offset from the tube may cause it to flex, fatigue then just break over time. CFM's sway bars are tubular so they don't flex..or twist as easy like a car's solid bar. From what I see the problem may just be the mounting tab itself. In the pic below, although I have relocated mine to change the ratios, the OE mount is straight on top of the arm so all forces on it are straight up or down, none to the side that cause flexing and metal fatigue over time. May be just a stouter mount..or a little beefing-up is all it needs.


   

[Sockman]

The tab is really thin material, too.  I think you're right, it's just too darn flimsy/small to take the constant twisting.  I'll take some pics of the other side fix, but for anybody buying these, beware.

[Sockman]

Some pics. 

[NMKawierider]

Bad design. Hopefully with the added steel it won't do it again. My first brackets for my relocates were not stout enough either and one broke too. Not the second set...so far. 


 

[gfmoto]

When are these going to be $275 again?!?