Many thanks for the detailed responses. To provide more clarity-
I have owned this machine since new and have followed all service intervals by the book. The first pictures are the very first service at the recommended interval. I did additional subsequent services to monitor the issues well in advance of the recommended intervals. I am very much on top of the maintenance.

In terms of how the machine is driven, I most definitely drive the machine through some challenging terrain. However not wide open throttle spinning tire abuse. My speed is typically 30Km/hr or crawling when maneuvering obstacles. It spends most it's life in low range. It gets worked, but I wouldn't say abused.

I was uncertain if the damaged bevel gears were somehow caused by something that I did unintentionally, but those gears are always mated/meshed. Which made me wonder about backlash and if they were preloaded / shimmed correctly. Perhaps it was just a manufacturing flaw as stated. Hopefully no more issues now. I have some concerns because the invoice does not show any shims purchased to set backlash.. so either the bevel gear assembly comes preloaded / shimmed or they just slapped everything back together as is and called it good.

The coil failure - I have driven the machine through mud but typically not deep water and the machine always gets washed after before storage. I agree, and it makes total sense how moisture would cause it to fail prematurely. During the winter the machine normally sits in a heated garage on a trickle charger - this was my window for maintenance to get the transmission sorted under warranty. It took 3 months to get the machine back so it sat in extreme cold storage conditions in the dealers yard.(-40C ) I am attributing the failure to the cold combined with possibly weakening coils- it was -20C when the dealer started the machine in their storage compound.

I absolutely HATE having other people service my equipment because I know that they will not have the same amount of care and detail put into the work. The crankcase was not physically flooded or overflowing with gas, but the smell on the dipstick smells like 100% gas to me. When I went to load the machine on my trailer with the winch they suggested that I just start it and drive it on, I did mention my concern about fuel washing the cyclinder and they didn't have a response. With the machine warmed up both coils are firing now. I will still be replacing both coils and wires now.

I take this machine into some pretty remote places solo, so it's reliability is paramount to me.

Edit:
I was very disheartened about the fuel smell in the oil. And I am sure this added significant wear and tear to cylinder #1. To what degree I am uncertain. If my machine starts to burn oil (it never did before) then I know I have a problem and will be taking it back to the dealer for warranty.

I wanted to post a follow up to this. (2200KM on machine now, didn't grenade)
Noise got worse. Sounded like a loose chain clammering around. Fluid changes kept coming out black, but was not burnt.

Finally brought it in for warranty. The dealer replaced The driven bevel gear, driven bevel gear assy, and front output shaft.
Had issues the day I went to pick it up. One of the ignition coils died and they flooded the crank case with gas. So I am dealing with that before I take it out for a test drive. (Coils are not under warranty)

Has anyone else had any issues similar to this? What would even cause that to happen??

Any trick to do a hard reset on the ecm?  I tried leaving battery unhooked for a while but that didn't work!

You will need an OBDII code reader. The ECM and diagnostic port are behind the passenger seat backrest. You need to remove the plastic panel to access the OBD port.

Those codes sound like an electrical issue- I found my wiring harness got pinched in between the engine mount (underneath center console) so check battery connections are good and tight as well as inspect the electrical harness for damage

I have a 2023 EX HO. It came with a parking brake. Biggest complaint is no engine limiter if you leave it on. Melted my caliper dust boots once.
I agree, trailering in park is a bad idea.

What about buying a wheel chock tie down kit? I've got one and it's awesome. You bolt the small chocks to the trailer deck. In front of and behind all 4 wheels. Then you can strap to the chock over the tire, so each wheel is strapped between the chocks and to the trailer deck.

The rubber parts of the calipers are toast. The calipers themselves are fine, as are the rotors and pads. The only thing I can find is new calipers for $300 each, when all I need is six little pieces of rubber. Very frustrating.

EDIT: Just realized this post is super old, but hopefully the info helps someone.

I made the same mistake the first time I drove my machine off the trailer.

My dealer was able to supply me with inner caliper piston seals & dust boots for a total of $40 CDN. It is possible to repair the calipers...
You mentioned six pieces of rubber- did you melt the slide pin boots too?

There is also a rubber seal inside the center of the piston that's part of the parking brake mechanism. It seals a tiny pin hole inside the groove of the piston where the dust seal rides. It's retained by a spring, it can be a bit tricky to reinstall. I pulled mine to inspect. If that's melted I'm not sure if you can replace it or you might need new calipers. That would be a dealer question.

And also - there is a bit of a trick to installing the outer dust seal. the outside lip of the seal must be installed into the caliper first THEN the inner lip of the seal should slide up into the groove on the caliper piston.
You need to slide the dust seal to the bottom of the piston first, then seat the outer edge of the seal into the caliper, then wind the piston in (which will eventually cause the inner lip to seat). If you try to install the piston after the dust seal is seated in the caliper you WILL rip the dust boot (as I learned the hard way)

Found my wiring harness was rubbing into the front engine mount. It's the main harness that runs along the passenger side - behind the passenger seat.

I'm trying to get my hands on a wiring diagram. In the meantime, just looking to identify what 2 of the 3 damaged wires are for to make sure everything is operating as it should.

There is a light blue wire & green / black wire I'm not sure about. The red/yellow goes to the voltage regulator and is the only wire I can identify so far.
If anyone can provide me with the diagram or assist with identifying the wires it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Looking for a copy as well please.

Thank you.

Recently picked up a 2023 Zforce 950 HO EX. Just hit my first service interval (10.8 engine hours / 312KM)

Performed my first service. Drained and refilled both diffs, oil + filter, and transmission. Everything looks normal except for there was some junk on the transmission drain plug magnet. Is this normal leftover manufacturing junk? Or should I be concerned?

Also the service manual recommends valve lash check / adjustment. But my dealer says not needed until 800km+. Has anyone done the valve lash at the first service interval and was any adjustment needed?

Thanks in advance for any advice.