Sounds almost like an exhaust gasket leak.

Sorry to sound abit silly here but when you say gasket , do you mean the graphite ring where the two pipes joint or at the front where it meant the engine ? 

Where it joins to the engine.

I will check this tomorrow and report back , as I'm going to recheck the valve clearance for my own piece of mind aswell as it just sounds very tappy but I'm certain it's all tight and the gasket was new.

When it's cold get someone to partly block the muffler end and you spray some soapy water..or 409..something on it and watch for bubbles. Do it fast though as it heats-up pretty quick. Look for splits or cracks too.

You are very good lol checked the front and it is leaking from where the exhaust meets the engine .

Sounds almost like an exhaust gasket leak.

Sorry to sound abit silly here but when you say gasket , do you mean the graphite ring where the two pipes joint or at the front where it meant the engine ? 

Where it joins to the engine.

I will check this tomorrow and report back , as I'm going to recheck the valve clearance for my own piece of mind aswell as it just sounds very tappy but I'm certain it's all tight and the gasket was new.

When it's cold get someone to partly block the muffler end and you spray some soapy water..or 409..something on it and watch for bubbles. Do it fast though as it heats-up pretty quick. Look for splits or cracks too.

Brilliant thank you will report back tomorrow with my finds when I have done this

Sounds almost like an exhaust gasket leak.

Sorry to sound abit silly here but when you say gasket , do you mean the graphite ring where the two pipes joint or at the front where it meant the engine ? 

Where it joins to the engine.

I will check this tomorrow and report back , as I'm going to recheck the valve clearance for my own piece of mind aswell as it just sounds very tappy but I'm certain it's all tight and the gasket was new.

Sounds almost like an exhaust gasket leak.

Sorry to sound abit silly here but when you say gasket , do you mean the graphite ring where the two pipes joint or at the front where it meant the engine ? 

OUCH. Id be talking to your mechanic for sure.

Yeah...that would be my first call...lol. Just pull the dipstick and check level and color. If its high and milky..she's gone. Someone owes you a new engine.

So I built her all back up new rings new gasket new coolant and oil and new thermo sensor she fired straight up gets to the 3 bars temp and fan kicks in , just sounds like a tapping noise if anyone can here it on the video could advise me I did set the valve clearances they are in range .

Well, best of luck this time around.
Frustrating when somehting fails like that.

Very frustrating , I jumped the fan cable that connects to the thermo switch in the radiator And the fan come on permanently so I know it's definitely the switch , hard to believe a little switch can cause a big issue well that plus me not noticing the temp gauge lol

OUCH. Id be talking to your mechanic for sure.

Yeah...that would be my first call...lol. Just pull the dipstick and check level and color. If its high and milky..she's gone. Someone owes you a new engine.

So turns out that the quad overheated due to the fan not kicking in the thermo switch on the radiator had gone bad I had not noticed so it has been being used without the fan it's over heated and head gasket gone pop , stripped it down this afternoon ordered all the parts and now just got to wait .

Because I see some of dissipating quickly like steam and because it came on all of a sudden I'm going to say its coolant and she has either blown the head gasket or developed a crack into the water jacket. Either way she's coming back apart.

Any idea on what could have caused this as the engine has only just been rebuilt .

Well, normally a good mechanic will mill the decks to ensure they are flat, torque the head to spec. Then run it for two cycles then re-torque the head(s) again because sometimes they need it after a couple of cycles. Not everyone does and 90% of the time nothing happens...but 10% of the time..they have a problem. If it is coolant it will be under pressure pushing it way into the combustion chamber and when not being burned, it will be flowing downward past the piston into the oil which the pump will mix it in with the oil, pumping throughout the engine. When those beads of coolant get between the rod bearing and the crank during the power stroke, it vaporizes with micro explosions under the pressure scaring the crank surface and of course splattering the soft bearing surface. If your oil level is higher then it was and/or turning milky, this has already happened.

I have just checked the coolant bottle and it was more or less empty , it was full yesterday the temp gauge is full and flashing .

And the oil?

Just checked the oil and the oil is milky

Because I see some of dissipating quickly like steam and because it came on all of a sudden I'm going to say its coolant and she has either blown the head gasket or developed a crack into the water jacket. Either way she's coming back apart.

Any idea on what could have caused this as the engine has only just been rebuilt .

Well, normally a good mechanic will mill the decks to ensure they are flat, torque the head to spec. Then run it for two cycles then re-torque the head(s) again because sometimes they need it after a couple of cycles. Not everyone does and 90% of the time nothing happens...but 10% of the time..they have a problem. If it is coolant it will be under pressure pushing it way into the combustion chamber and when not being burned, it will be flowing downward past the piston into the oil which the pump will mix it in with the oil, pumping throughout the engine. When those beads of coolant get between the rod bearing and the crank during the power stroke, it vaporizes with micro explosions under the pressure scaring the crank surface and of course splattering the soft bearing surface. If your oil level is higher then it was and/or turning milky, this has already happened.

I have just checked the coolant bottle and it was more or less empty , it was full yesterday the temp gauge is full and flashing .

And the oil?

I haven't checked the oil I will drop the oil tomorrow and check but what I have noticed is that while the bar on the temp gauge is full , the fan isn't even kicking in

Because I see some of dissipating quickly like steam and because it came on all of a sudden I'm going to say its coolant and she has either blown the head gasket or developed a crack into the water jacket. Either way she's coming back apart.

Any idea on what could have caused this as the engine has only just been rebuilt .

Well, normally a good mechanic will mill the decks to ensure they are flat, torque the head to spec. Then run it for two cycles then re-torque the head(s) again because sometimes they need it after a couple of cycles. Not everyone does and 90% of the time nothing happens...but 10% of the time..they have a problem. If it is coolant it will be under pressure pushing it way into the combustion chamber and when not being burned, it will be flowing downward past the piston into the oil which the pump will mix it in with the oil, pumping throughout the engine. When those beads of coolant get between the rod bearing and the crank during the power stroke, it vaporizes with micro explosions under the pressure scaring the crank surface and of course splattering the soft bearing surface. If your oil level is higher then it was and/or turning milky, this has already happened.

I have just checked the coolant bottle and it was more or less empty , it was full yesterday the temp gauge is full and flashing .

Because I see some of dissipating quickly like steam and because it came on all of a sudden I'm going to say its coolant and she has either blown the head gasket or developed a crack into the water jacket. Either way she's coming back apart.

Any idea on what could have caused this as the engine has only just been rebuilt .

Started the quad , it has been running ok and now it has started smoking quite a lot , engine has just been rebuilt , and was running fine now all of a sudden this

Are you 100% sure the engine rotates freely as it should and all the tolerances such as crank thrust, rod bearings are correct? How about cam chain tension? A clicking starter solenoid means one of two things, One, it isn't getting enough power to the coil to hold the contactor down under load or there a poor coil ground. Or two, the solenoid is being overloaded...and that comes from either a bad starter or the engine is too hard to rotate for the starter.

Hello thank you for the reply I haven't touched the bottom end it was top end rebuild that it has had and i can rotate it by hand there is a bit of pressure there but that I think is due to compression , the starter is new put in today and the car has been connected to a car to try and jump start it has a new tensioner that i have put in which seems fine .

Then pull the plug and conform it rotates freely, then if not done already, put a new battery in it to rule-out an open cell and while there check all the cable ends for corrosion which can increase resistance. Check that the power being sent to the solenoid is the same as the battery. If not there is a connection or harness problem.

I took the battery off last night fully charged it up and tried it this morning and she turns over she just doesn't fire I am now suspecting fuel .Fuel is connected  no fuses have blown any ideas where to look now ?

Check the fuel pressure. If not in spec need to fins out why. Also test the kill switch.

Thank you for your help she is now up and running reason she would fire is because I left the spark plug cap off  silly mistake lol , but she runs perfectly fine with no issues , glad to have her back up and running

Are you 100% sure the engine rotates freely as it should and all the tolerances such as crank thrust, rod bearings are correct? How about cam chain tension? A clicking starter solenoid means one of two things, One, it isn't getting enough power to the coil to hold the contactor down under load or there a poor coil ground. Or two, the solenoid is being overloaded...and that comes from either a bad starter or the engine is too hard to rotate for the starter.

Hello thank you for the reply I haven't touched the bottom end it was top end rebuild that it has had and i can rotate it by hand there is a bit of pressure there but that I think is due to compression , the starter is new put in today and the car has been connected to a car to try and jump start it has a new tensioner that i have put in which seems fine .

Then pull the plug and conform it rotates freely, then if not done already, put a new battery in it to rule-out an open cell and while there check all the cable ends for corrosion which can increase resistance. Check that the power being sent to the solenoid is the same as the battery. If not there is a connection or harness problem.

I took the battery off last night fully charged it up and tried it this morning and she turns over she just doesn't fire I am now suspecting fuel .Fuel is connected no fuses have blown any ideas where to look now ?

Are you 100% sure the engine rotates freely as it should and all the tolerances such as crank thrust, rod bearings are correct? How about cam chain tension? A clicking starter solenoid means one of two things, One, it isn't getting enough power to the coil to hold the contactor down under load or there a poor coil ground. Or two, the solenoid is being overloaded...and that comes from either a bad starter or the engine is too hard to rotate for the starter.

Hello thank you for the reply I haven't touched the bottom end it was top end rebuild that it has had and i can rotate it by hand there is a bit of pressure there but that I think is due to compression , the starter is new put in today and the car has been connected to a car to try and jump start it has a new tensioner that i have put in which seems fine .