There is a 40a Fuse by the battery for the charging system. In troubleshooting why my voltage was down to about 9.5 I checked it and it was blown and chalky. I put a new one in and it is holding but the wires and fuse body are very Hot to touch. Doesn't seem normal.
I'm thinking voltage regulator problem but wanted to get a second opinion. I have a manual so I would think somewhere it would tell me how many amps are supposed to be on that circuit which I guess would be my next step.

Engine light finally went away.   Sea-Foam....The Robitussin of the motor world.

I saw something about reading the flashes but its solid so I think that is the older ones.  I did see in the service manual that it lists a dedicated tool to read and yes further research shows its not an ODBC port.  I also saw where somebody had made one and it had power but didn't read anything. Amazon does have an adapter for about $14 so maybe its worth a shot to try it out. I put the machine in the garage for a while, checked the oil, disconnected the battery, dumped some sea foam in the tank and took it out on the trapline about 4 miles and it seemed ok, the roughness went away. Engine light is still on though. I don't see any code displayed unless there is some trick to get it to show.  I think  that machine likes to warm up and idles really rough at 15 degrees probably should have let it warm up for 3 or 4 minutes.

My 2023 Uforce 1000   engine light came on when starting off on my morning trapline check. It has had some initial problems on cold mornings cutting off and rough idle but usually gets better as it warms up.
Out of caution I returned to the house but now what ? A quick internet search revealed I need a special tool only available to dealers to read the codes ?  Are they serious?  After a year of use, I think I can see where this is going already, I'm going to end up  having to sell this for whatever I can get and buy something else.  If anybody has any ideas its appreciated.

I'm wondering if anyone else has replaced their transmission oil with synthetic. I was sort of surprised by the increased drivability after doing so. I have to admit that I never checked it before I did my 200m service. I'm not sure there was as much in there as I ended up using to fill to the top hole.  The machine is definitely smoother. The RNG clutch kit was a huge improvement but I'm sort of wishing I had done the transmission first and then the clutch. I also found that driving in 2wd is much smoother than 4wd. I'm also not 100% sold on the factory belt.  I'm starting to think that the so-called 'throttle problems' particularly with the 2022 and 2023 models may be a combination of things not necessarily the throttle. Don't get me wrong, I still think electronic throttle at least CFMOTO's implementation, on a trail machine is not good.

Mine came with a funnel an a hose

LOL I totally forgot they come with a funnel !

I did my 200m Oil change today and also the transmission fluid both with synthetic versions.  Not the easiest I have ever performed, stuff is really tucked in there with not much concern with getting to it.  The drain bolts were easy enough but I think next time I will find a way to lift it and take off the whole center under shield. Neither the oil or the transmission drained cleanly through the access holes and I ended up with a lot of splashed oil.  Also recommend make sure you have a pump for the transmission fluid or at least a tube.  No way to fit a funnel.  The last bit of joy was that the oil filter 2 pack I purchased came with neither the crush washer or the o-ring I reused the originals so I guess I will keep an eye on it and make sure the next filter I get comes with one.  The transmission bolt also requires a crush ring.

Embarrassing...I finally got around to installing it this morning. took less than an hour total (barely)
No problem getting the clutch bolt or nut off. Really only 1 case cover screw was hard to get to. Its a pretty easy job for someone with some mechanical experience and doable for even someone with limited experience. Having all the right tools helps for sure. The video on youtube is your guide.
I noticed the replacement spring was shorter than the original and the magnets seemed lighter.
Made a huge difference I can easily drive around my trails in low. Very satisfied.  I might do the other clutch but I'm not really sure I need to.

Couldn't stand the Jerky Ride anymore. 2023 Uforce is almost uncontrollable on rough terrain.  It had improved some over 120 miles from brand new a  little but not enough. I ordered a clutch kit from RNG. I will post my results since it seems allot of people have the issue.

That was it ! I could have sworn it was under the dash. wasn't obvious until I took off the roof.  I guess its from the flex in that brace since its pretty thin.. but its strange seems like all would do it or none would.  Unless whoever puts the roll cage on at the dealer was supposed to put some dampening material between it and didn't.

I realized after I wrote above that unless there is supposed to be a washer or something in-between,  the root cause is over-tightening the bolts on the cross brace. Back them out a turn or so and the sound disappears. Sounds counter-intuitive I know but it works. 

Did you ever figure this one out ?  I believe I have the same issue in a 2023.

Great video. I just got finished. Neither bearing could be turned by hand or with pliers.  Weird thing though. the sleeve at the bottom of the shock was non-removable. I could tell the bushing material was fused to the sleeve. Closer inspection showed that it was one piece not 2 like the top one. I worked at it for quite a while but that thing wasn't coming out of there.
Unfortunately that was not the problem.  It really sounds like its coming from just bellow the dash but there's nothing there I can see that would move except where the cab bolts to the frame and most of those bolts would be difficult to get to. 

Thought I would break this issue out from my earlier post.  I did a search and found one other user that described this some time back but there was never any follow up information.
The machine is about 3 weeks old  and the creaking started after 2 or 3 days of purchase.  I now have over 100 miles on it.
I have lifted it a couple times, taken the wheels off, inspected anything and everything for looseness and found nothing. I initially thought that it didn't do it with the engine off but I have been able to disprove that by killing the motor and drifting down a hill in N.  To me, sounds like its coming from just under the dash. sounds like something loose and flexing/moving constantly when machine is in motion. I did find a hole  with a bolt thread  and no bolt on the panel below the dash but watching it ..it doesn't seem to move, might be for some accessory. 

Exact same thing happened to me on my first ride.  Put it in park on a incline and couldn't get it out.  I managed to rock it out and then I noticed it would no longer go into Low.   Adjusted the linkage (very easy)  I think the reason it got stuck in Park was incorrectly adjusted linkage from factory - or maybe the dealer does that not sure.

I figured 'normal' mode was the way to go but dealer claimed I should be in 'Work' most of the time.  Running in High solves the problem its smooth enough in High in either work or normal. I guess I would wear out belts quicker though.
I checked the A-Arms they are pretty tight there is some play but Im afraid to put much more torque on those bolts.
I did manage to sort of isolate it.  I can replicate it sitting still buy shaking  it side to side standing outside...but only when the engine is running. Weird. I guess its not in the driveline I'm thinking it might be related to the Fan.