Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Hutcho

#1
MSC and RNG plus others sell Primary Clutch kits to fix this type of issue, I know RNG targets a fix to this issue with his kits.
The kit typically incldues a replacement spring and weights.

I'll let you search up RNG and MSC if you don't then who they are, rather than have the links removed from this post.
#2
Thanks, it was a worry and this has returned some confidence. I'll be taking it out for a test drive in the next few days and will monitor the situation.
#3
Hi sorry for the delay, only just found time to run a pressure test.
So the results are as follows.
1350RPM - 20-25Psi
7500RMP - 80Psi

Both within the recommended operating range.

I have left the pressure valve and strainer alone and installed a new pressure switch.

To add to my original message explaining the issue I forgot to say that I noticed a loss of power while the oil light and beep was happening. I know the pressure sender is connected to the ECU could the ECU switch to limp mode when the oil light is on for a prolonged time? I didn't see a check engine light when losing power.  I just trying to determine if this loss of power was related to a faulty oil pressure switch or if I have another issue??
#4
I have a UK 2019 zForce 1000 when I first drove it, I noticed the driver seat was too far forward and somewhat tilted forward, I kept banging my knees and it wasn't comfortable using the pedals. To resolve this, I tried adjusting the seat by repositioning the base but this didn't help much, So I looked more closely at the base and noticed that between the adjustable base and the seat was and angled plastic spacer (like a wedge) which had the thick end to the rear of the seat and the thinner end to the front. I turned this around and positioned the seat as far back as possible, this tilted the seat backwards lifting the front giving more support under your legs. This provided a much better driving position.

Note, I have noticed that the seats differ in different countries and this workaround was on the UK model.
See the UK seat parts diagram showing the two wedges in the default position.
https://www.quadzillaparts.co.uk/collections/zforce-1000/products/zforce-1000-f13-b-seatblack-grey
#5
I had an issue with loss of power and have noticed the exhaust getting very hot too, as you talk about a fuel vacuum and opening the filler cap.. I had a thought, could this issue be caused by over filling the fuel tank (IE filling to the top of the filler pipe). It makes sense that on a hot day or maybe at a different altitude the fuel expands putting pressure on the pump? Just thinking out loud. Interested to get your (more mechanically minded) views.
When I think back, I know I over filled my fuel as I wanted to ensure I had as much fuel in it as possible. And I have also since read that you shouldn't fill to the top of the filler pipe and maybe this is the reason.
#6
Thanks, I like the idea of not creating work for myself.

I'll test pressure at temp and higher RPM as suggested and report back.
#7
Thanks for your input. I wasn't aware the pressure switch only triggered at low pressure. It sounds like I have a faulty pressure switch which with further investigation identified a possible high pressure issue.

I have a new pressure switch to install once I have finished testing the pressure. I will continue with my plan to drain the oil and replace the pressure valve. Do you think it's worth checking and cleaning the oil strainer at the same time? Also in terms clearing debris from within world you suggest flushing oil through with the valve out?

Also Is it worth taking the pump apart and inspecting while the oil is out? Normally I would only try and change one thing at a time but since the oil will be drained it might make sense to check as much as possible.
#8
I have a 2019 zforce 1000 which started to show the oil light and beeping, it would last well over 5 seconds(Which if around 5sec I tend to put down to pressure building) my issue would last for longer than a minute after starting and come on and off when driving.

I have replaced the oil and changed the oil filter using he recommended filter and oil I have also removed the pressure switch to install a pressure gauge tester.
When idling around 1400rpm I'm seeing around 40-45PSI which I understand is near the top end of the operational range. Due to the idle value, I haven't yet tested at a higher rpm. I wanted to first check what you guys thought.
Just to add the pressure needle wasn't bouncing around it would stay reasonably constant when idling, starting near 50psi before moving slowly down as the engine temp increased.

From the manual I understand the Oil Pressure operating values to be:
1300rpm @90C Low=100kPa(14.5psi) | High=400kPa(58psi) | Recommended=200kPa(29psi)
6000rpm @90C Low=350kPa(50psi) | High=700kPa(101psi) | Recommended=580kPa(84psi)

I'm thinking of dropping the oil, changing/cleaning the oil strainer, and replacing the pressure relief valve.
Any other thoughts on what could be the cause?