Something like this  
Its all in inches.  It should all fit on one 4x8 sheet of 3/16 polycarbonate.  The rear window is a 3 piece setup just to keep costs down.  Everything is bonded with 3M VHB tape, except the headrest holes are utilized to keep the rear window from making noise.   Its lasted 4 yrs so far, little dirty but mine is a UTV-I have a small hand powered windshield wiper.  I have a cnc router so it was done in 15 minutes.  I'm sure once you proof the dimensions you can have a shop over there cut it for you.
Rick

Not sure when they converted to the ODB2 system..thought it was 2018 or 19..but take a look at the one in your car/truck and see if it looks like the one in the Moto.

It looks like the Bosch (Bosch MED17.8.10) fuel injection brain is from some small common Chinese cars.  They seem to follow the same standard protocol as all OBD2 systems.  Even a Torque Pro Bluetooth dongle will work. 
I've been looking into this as I'm trying to retrofit a standard 2-way AutoStart for winter warmup

Would like to find out what this error code is we are on a farm in South Africa, and too far to go and see a dealer. Where can we get all the error codes and is there somewhere where we can download programs for error clearing and diagnostics. Need to get this working right.

As for clearing, most any OBD2 code reader should be able to do that.  I had a few and cleared them and they haven't come back using a generic code reader.  Are you having throttle issues?  Mine is a Covid 21 special edition year and it has an overly sensitive throttle.  DFORCE PDA scan tool might be the diagnostic tool but not sure.

So....other items associated with snowplowing....I'm adding a back blade (52 inch) with hydraulic lift.  The lift contraption is the Impact Implements/Moto Alliance version.  I bought it as the price at about 450 delivered, not a bad price considering a Parker ElectroHydraulic actuator can be 900 alone.  The blade I'm waiting from eBay at $165 (impact Implements). 
I would not use the back blade for anything but snow or something very loose as the hitch connection on the UTV is not very robust.  Plus CVT's are not made for that kind of abuse.  Get a tractor.
If you can see the front left skid shoe on the plow has been replaced with a field repair version.  I rip those shoes up pretty often.  I plan to make a skid "ski" that should make a season.  I probably do 30 miles of plowing a season on my road which includes my neighbors long gravel drives-which is quite a bit for a little UTV.

Along this post...Is there a place we can get real parts for the Uforce 600/CFmoto?  I mean guts and frame parts.  I know the dealer is a source but is that it?  Just asking.

I have the plastic front window so a $10 ebay manual worked for me, covid has made lexan cheap so I just plan on recycling my window every few years.  I noticed there are a lot of generic manual and electrics on EBay.  Of course you will have to do some figuring and measuring.  I noticed the CFmoto was was over $400  yikes!

It was thick and some of it was uphill so if your flat landing at 1k feet your experience may vary.
But it got me thinking about a real "normalized" turbo, which is not a turbo system designed to extract max HP but made to get sea level performance out of an engine running at 7k feet-so your not stressing and over boosting.  I bought a new cheap turbo for my 26hp tractor that I have yet to retrofit.  You can get turbos for grom 125's so does anybody know if there's a fit for the lil 600?

And just for info.  Today we got a good 8 to 12 inches of wet snow.  I can say that at 7k feet with the 72 inch plow that this is IMO the limit of the 600.  I had the pedal buried in low, and blade tilted, and it did the job but it was straining, didn't smell a belt but I think it was close.

Thank you very much for all the good advice.  I ordered the 66" blade.  At 25º it still extends beyond the wheels by 2" on either side.  I agree, I want to minimize strain.  My asphalt driveway is pretty smooth; however, I will take your warning—catching and tripping would be terrible for sure.

Like you, I have full cab, solid doors, heated seats and central heating.  I have used my 5 series John Deere to plow previous seasons; however, it does not have a cab and was quite cold.  Staying in the uForce with music and a cup of coffee seems much more pleasant.  Looking forward to it.

I have a very similar setup-heated seats too...plan to add 2 way remote start   Have a tractor as well-not used for snow removal, only moving/dumping.  I asked about the heater bypass as the engine has a hard time producing the heat unless your really working it.  I'm at the end of a 1 mile asphalt driveway.  I like to use the utv for most conditions but I have an f250 with a 9'6" v plow for the bigger snow.  I enclosed everything, and like a lot of people, realized how loud it was.  I'm trying to find a solution for that.  I know a welding blanket would help but I'm not sure of the damage it would cause being layed on the engine-due to vibration.  I grew up in Enumclaw BTW.

Did you get the bypass valve for the heater? 

And, if I attach the pics correctly you can see how far out the blade is when fully angled over, way too much IMO.  This really puts strain on the front.  I had to make my own plow mount originally as they weren't available the time.  It was the same that everyone sells pretty much-I have cnc, plasma etc.  If you use that one, and it will work if your careful,  I recommend at least re-tapping the plow adapter mount holes to a course thread, higher quality bolt (and loctite them in) as mine just ripped the bolts and bent the front steel cover.  Also make sure you check them a couple times a season to make sure they don't get loose.    And as I said before, this was a slow (no more than 5mph) blade trip when a foot went in a pothole and caught the asphalt.
The second pic is the mount I made.  The frame pushes almost directly on the push tube, underneath is a steel sheet going back to about under the seats.  I also welded some 1/8x1.5x1.5 angle down the sheet about the original square frame.  I'm sure its metric but the frame seems no thicker than 16 gauge or lighter. 
I may end up making my own push tube and mid-mounting it.  I had a Kawi Brute Force 750 before this and loved the mid-mount.  I'm pretty sure most, if not all, other brands push tubes stick out this far, as they like to be one size fits all. 
The benefit of the cable system over hydraulic is that the blade can float up more than hydraulic.  I only have a 2 inches of float, and my hydraulic provides no down force.  My damage was caused when I was using a cable lift system tho.
The 72 blade will clear your tires when tilted, I'm not sure of 66. 
I went full nuts and enclosed the cab and put doors and a heater in mine.

I have the KFI 72 inch.  I have an asphalt road so I'm soon to be on my 3rd set of shoes as they wear down pretty quick-I also have the urethane edge to keep from damaging the road, wears quick and is kind of expensive so I'm not sure I'll buy another.  I tripped my blade once at low speed and it ripped the mount up so I had to make my own-and add a 14-gauge steel skid plate to the front to add some steel.  The whole setup sticks out longer than it needs to, even when tilted, so this puts extra strain on the front end.  So I am careful to avoid potholes and other obstacles.  I have hydraulic tilt and lift so I don't deal with broken winch cables.  I think someone sells a kit that can change the geometry of the cable so they don't fail as often

I don't have the info in front of me, but if you can get the horsepower rating at an RPM just cut that RPM number in half and drive around at that.  Quick internet search said 6250 rpm, not sure if the 600 has an RPM limiter.  So buzz around at 3100 or so, might be kind of slow though.
Just avoid overheating, as that can cause the oil to glaze on the cylinder walls and prevent the rings from seating.
Rick

I'm not sure how the OEM rear window is mounted (I cut my own)  but if it rattles, as some have said, you can  cut down some bolts and secure the window to the holes in the headrests. 

Has anybody copied there keys yet?  Are they all the same?  My tractor keys are generic, order them off ebay and they fit!  Do you have to buy CFmoto blanks?  I ask as Mc/atv/utv keys can be difficult to copy,  non standard blanks.
Thx