I'm looking at making something up. My cvt is constantly taking on water. I've checked the connections and seal but seems like it's just splashing up. Any luck so far?

I have a 2012, and like mentioned earlier works if you get the piston in the right spot.

One thing I thought I would mention however is with the efi, for the life of me i can't get the bike to start if the battery is totally dead. Seems like you need enough juice to run the fuel pump for the injectors, Unless there is a trick out there. Besides remembering to the  the lights off!

More or less. I did a bunch of thing while i had everything apart. I did trim up the plate and drilled new holes so tgey would line up better. Which helped but didn't solve the problem entirely. When i put the plates back on i marked the ware with a sharpe. Still wares.
I ordered new shocks from the dealer ... still waiting.. but in the meantime i put a spacer in the coil and they're were like brand new until i blew one on sunday. I'm 90% sure its a set of bad shocks. Hope tge new ones prove as good as the spacers.

Thanks for your help again. Not sure if there's a way to close this thread out

So i was looking the whole situation over tonight. I think guard placement is part of the issue. Left side is definetly wearing worse than the right, and it is bolted to the a-arm a little frothy down (1/8") but with the angle looks like its making a fairly big difference.

I checked the springs:
  loaded they measure 14 1/8"
  Unloaded they're 14 1/2"

It doesn't appear that the a arms go beyond horizontal, but they come pretty close. I gotta get some people/weight to really see what's going on.

On another note i was into the dealer today, and he pretty much told me that hey have never seen or heard of anything like this happening. Said it's impossible. He hoped on a new 500 and i noticed that it hardly moved. Mine i can shift my weight to move the body enough to clear the frame of the shed door if I'm a bit too close.

It seems like springs to me, even though the preload seems to handle the dead weight of the machine just fine. (Any thoughts on that comment in paticulairly).

The other thing I'm wondering has anyone tried the runber or steel spring stiffner that tou add to the coil? Might be a cheap way to it out before i go on the hunt for springs.

Ps, thanks for everyone's help on this it's much appreciated. Hope i can return the favor on of these days.

I'll have to get back to you on the spring lengths but it's a 2012 CF500-5C "trail tracker ex 500". Don't know if it makes a difference but its a canadian machine

I initially thought about just shortening up the guards, but i think I'd be in worse trouble with the arms potentially grinding instead of the.

Thanks for the quick reply boys.

-no clunk (besides hitting rocks because I'm sitting lower...)
-shocks themselves seem ok, no bounce and they dampen the bumps fine

I was talking with the dealer a few weeks ago and he didn't figure 2up should be an issue for that machine(Lon wheel base), he also commented he'd never seen an issue with 3000km...but springs seem to be the issue. I've attached a couple pictures of the wear. Its a good thing the guards were there or the a arms would have been damaged.

Hey Folks,

First post ever. I've got a 500efi trailtracker that i bought used. The previous owner bought a-arm skid plates (aluminum). With 2 people on the bike it often bottoms out and the skid plates wear on the inside of the rim.

Preload is set to the max, should i replace both shocks and springs? If i replace any suggestions on branding