I know there are a handful of topics on here about oil pressure, clogged oil coolers, stuck relief values, etc... here is the issue I'm fighting and a few questions that I'm not seeing in other posts:

• Pressure gage hooked up. 11-13psi at idle, 15-18psi when throttling
• Bypassed oil cooler with clear plastic line. No real difference in pressure, but because it's clear oil appears to be pulsing through the line.  Is that normal or would you expect it to be constant?
• Looking to maybe replacing the oil relief value, but where is the thing? (2021 zforce trail 800)  Based on part diagram it appears to be behind the clutch assembly, can I get to this if I pull the primary? Or do I need to pull the clutch housing and everything along with it?
• I've also read in other posts that people have replaced the oil pump. Is this accessible without pulling the engine and cracking it open?

Basically, I'm trying to figure out what are the manageable things to do before pulling the engine and breaking it down.

Well it's been a while, but I finally got back out to the garage and figured I give an update.  Looking back over all the wiring with a fine tooth comb, I finally found the issue.  Behind the drivers front tire, I found the attached photos. Not sure what got this, but all I can say is this could use some shielding here as anything kicked up by the tire could really damage a bit of wiring. After getting the wiring spliced back together everything seems to be working as expected.

Wow..well..I'm going to say there is a problem with the harness somewhere or there is a chassis ground off...or...one of the AUX relays has fused.

yeah, that's why I stretching my head a little on this one.  I've replace all the relays, but maybe there is something downstream causing a relay to go bad.  I've looked over the wire pretty well so far, checking for pinches or mouse problems and haven't come across anything.  I see one main grounding point (which I have already cleaned up) pretty much under and behind a little of the drivers seat. Assuming there is one on the engine as well.  Do you know if there are any other grounding point on the frame?  Is there a ground that gets carried up to the front by the fuse box?

Ok. Now..when you kill it with the kill switch after turning the key off, what happens after it stops and you switch the kill switch back on?

So when I turn the key off, the display dims a little. Turn off the kill switch, the display turns off. Turn the kill switch back on, the display turn back on.  This is all while the key is in the off position.

No, no electrical mods or additions have been added. Everything is stock as far as that goes.

I think I might have a couple issues going on, but the main one that's super odd is when I turn the key off, even pulling it out of ignition, the display flashes for a second but then stays on. If I hit the engine kill switch it turns off the display.  But I'm not sure everything has been fully turned off, there seems to be a phantom draw because it does seem to kill the battery if left for a week. I figured the issue was a bad ignition switch, so I replaced it. But still the same issue.  I have run through all the fuse I can fine. Replaced all the relays... Not sure where to go from here. Could the engine kill switch be bad?  Never used it, just always left it on because I always found it kind of pointless.

I'm also getting a 0118 code, which from what I can tell is a coolant temperature sensor. But that maybe seem like a separate issue.  Figured I mention it incase it was some how relevant.